Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn shop already build ".

Mostly because my insulation contractor will not use Rockwool and I do understand why , fibreglass batts have a "grain" , so you can easily split batts by hand to go in front and behind wires and pipes . With Rockwool there is no grain , you need to saw the batts to go around obstacles like wires and pipes and the Rockwool tends to kinda come off in chunks and crumbs around any cut . So for him its a more efficient and faster install with fibreglass .

The other consideration is the mineral wool is considerably more expensive than his cost for fibreglass batts .

These fibreglass batts are made from 70% recycled glass .

The 6" Rockwool batts are R-22 whereas these 6" fibreglass batts are R-20 , however you can also get them in R-22 and R-24 .

Because I am adding the R-8 Rockwool Comfortboard on the exterior I am happy to stick with the less expensive R-20 batts as I will end up at R-28 for my assembly and an effective R value for the wall of R-22 with my insulation choices .

FYI , the Rockwool Comfortboard80 mineral wool sheets I'm using for the exterior insulation are compressed far more densely than the Rockwool batts so chunking and crumbing from cuts does not really happen

 

You must not know who you speak of.

There's karma alright, but not the good kind, not for OZ.

 

Today I started prepping to install the 2" Rockwool Comfortboard80 mineral wool exterior insulation sheets .

When I laid out the foundation I cast a 1 1/2" tall by 1" deep ledge into the concrete wall with the top of ledge at underside of bottom wall plate / wall sheathing and the back of the ledge flush to exterior plane of plywood .





This ledge will help to support a 2" pressure treated ground that caps the underside of the Comfortboard as well as give the Comfortboard a spot to rest on . Additionally this bottom ground will allow me to attach my bottom rainscreen drain and siding blocking (more on that later)


To install the bottom ground , first I needed to fit them as they needed to be at 2" from exterior of plywood plane but the concrete wall was in and out of that plane by as much as about 3/16" , which is not much but I didn't want to establish a bug highway back there

Rectangular grounds ripped and fitted in place




After fitting all the grounds , I ripped them all so there is s 5 degree slope on top , a drip edge underneath to break any capillary action from drawing water back underneath the siding towards the wall , and wrapped the tops and exterior face with Vycor Deck Protector



I'll install these tomorrow or Monday , tape the bottom seam of the housewrap to the bottom ground and then I will be ready to start installing the Comfortboard

 

What in the world are we all going to do when you’re finished?..

 

Pilgrimage to the holy site of our people?

 

you've got lots of time to figure that out lol

 

So , couple things ~

Passed Insulation inspection this morning

Drywall being delivered Friday

I'm working on a few pre-drywall details and also have prepped everything to be ready to install exterior insulation

I've also decided to make 2 fairly major changes . I'm eliminating the interior 1/2" plywood layer behind the drywall , and am not going to grind and polish the concrete slab . Both decisions are budget based and I realized that the $1400 of plywood for the interior was kind of redundant in many areas as it would be behind cabinetry or my lumber racking system .

Not grinding the slab was a harder decision to make because I really wanted to have the coolest shop floor on the block but that saves me a couple thousand dollars plus and again , a lot of the floor will be covered by benches and built ins

unsub as needed , I won't blame you

 

Bye Felicia!














Just kidding, money talks and I don't blame your decision to slash those line items out. Could you butt 1/2" drywall to 1/2" ply in the areas where you want to have all the extra strength without all the extra cost? And would the cost of an epoxy floor be less than the cost of grinding/polishing or would that be about the same?

-J

 

I added some blocking in places before the insulation was installed where I knew I was going to be mounting some stuff , want the interior finish to be all drywall for aesthetics . Haven't priced an epoxy floor , the original finish on the concrete slab was pretty good , think I'm just going to clean if and re-seal it after drywall and put all the saved dough towards the plywood for my interior cabinetry and maybe the dust collection ductwork

 

What's the plan for the floor? Leave it raw?

A diy grinding job isn't the worst experience, most certainly not fun, but can be worth it vs sweeping a brushed floor.

 

The original finish on concrete slab was hard , smooth power troweled , it sweeps up pretty easily

 

Please don't do an epoxy floor.
I've been a maintenance guy in the pharmaceutical world for a long time, where almost all floors are epoxy and I've never seen one last, even with very reputable installers. Stay away, stay away, stay away.........(scary noises)

 

Just sticking with the slab I have , no epoxy

 

My work here is done.

 

Finished my air sealing additions (red tape is insulator , blue tape is me) , papered floor and dunged out my shit ready for drywall delivery tomorrow

 

this a shop or a house?

those Red squares outlets?

 

my shop

the house thread is ~

Preparing , preparing , you're always preparing . OZ-T's "Just build the damn house already build ".

 

The red squares are vapour barrier receptacle boxes the insulator has taped to the vapour barrier with red vapour barrier tape

 

ah!

 

Well shit, I didn’t know that thread existed. Now I have to find it and there goes hours of my free time.