Passenger/rear drum locks up..

Sup fellas, 2nd time the rear passenger side drum has locked up on me. Both times due to water crossing. The first time it happen ,it happened while I was in 2 foot of water and it locked up completely. I left it in 4 hi with out lockers on and dragged it out to flat grounds and opened the drum up. The shoes were had force against the drum. So I just backed them out 4 five tooth and it was all smooth sailing and free again. Made it out the trails and didnt have problems since. Didn’t think too much of it since it’s been a year after that incident. yesterday it happen to again as I was out wheeling. did a crossing and had no problems so we continued deeper into the park trails 30minutes or so with deep inclines and declines it locked up on me while declining a hill ... as I’ve experienced it before I knew what to do, did the same thing took the wheel off n backed the shoes out a few tooth and it was fine. Any one have this problem before ? I’ve cleaned the drums and re greased contact points since , and order a new drum and pad with all the springs and will be replacing them when they arrive. What was your solution ?what was the cause and If there were a kink in the line how should i diagnose it.it’s bothersome for the idea of it locking up while I’m wheeling continues to linger. All answers appreciated.

2017 Tacoma dclb off-road . 3 inch lift 5.29 gears 35s

 

How tight is your parking brake handle? Should be 7 clicks (on the handle) so when your rear axle flexes the actuator cables have some slack before they apply the brakes.

When you lift a truck sometimes the parking brake cable needs to be loosened inside the console to account for this.

 

Good shit I should remember this

 

Stop using the e-brake noob

 

I found out the hard way. I paid someone to install my lift and then paid Toyota double that amount for new backing plates for my rear hub assemblies after I bent my wheel studs. I learned a lesson. If the shop doesn’t know Tacomas, don’t let them near your truck.

 

with the truck in drive it’ll only take 2/3 clicks to stop the truck completely after releasing the foot brake . I’ll give the adjustments a try tomorrow morning ... and save the new brake sets for later if this works .. as the truck only have 15k . Thanks @Stocklocker

 

Lol what a dick lmao

 

lmfaooooo

 

Thank you

 

That’s your problem (I believe). Per the Toyota manual the handle is seven clicks. There is an pivoting equalizer bar inside the console that the two rear parking brake cables attach to, with the handle on the other side of this bar. When your rear axle flexes, some tension is put on the parking brake coaxial cables. That tension is taken up by the slack in the handle mechanism, otherwise one or the other wheel locks up.

The interesting thing, is due to the action of this equalizer bar, it can be confusing, with one wheel drooping causing the other wheel to lock up and vice versa. It is the opposite wheel that locks up to the one where you might see the tension on the cable.

What is certain is 3 clicks it too little and if (like me) you let this carry on you will bend your wheel studs and the backing plate they are pushed through. That was a $2500 mistake for me. My first mistake being trusting the local “lift specialists” who were actually more familiar with putting blocks under Chevy square bodies.

It took a trip to my dealer and a helpful Toyota mechanic to sort me out, but it was too late to save the OEM parts.

 

Mines stock and does this often at the boat launch with e brake up drums in water

 

Try what @Stocklocker suggested I just finished adjusting mines where it would engage @2 clicks to 6 clicks.

To remove the ebrake console just grab the plastic part of the shift lever just above the leather boot and pull down gently.. the boot should separate from the shifter then twist the knob off,after that grab the console from from the front two cup holder and pull up it will release the clips continue that to the arm rest.. there’s no nuts or bolts connecting this panel just clips . prop it up and you will see a 12mm nut with a bolt protruding it right in the center connected to the ebrake mechanisms use a 12mm ratchet wrench and a needle nose to hold the bolt and loosen the nut I had loosen mines about half an inch till I got mines between 5-7 clicks to engage the e brake. If any steps are wrong pls correct.. thankyou .. credit to @Stocklocker and @splitbolt for the infos. Much appreciated.hope this help all others with drum lock ups after getting wet .

 

i believe you are right... I now have more slack in the e brake cables that are in the rear also . Sucks that u had to go thru that pricey situation ,and thanks for sharing this information so others like me wouldn’t have to go through it .