Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

DustyMcTaco · Feb 1, 2021

Jthizz2006 said: ↑

Wanted to ask if the sound deadening mats were necessary while installing new speakers?

if so, how much of it did you buy?
Click to expand...

I bought this:

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

$166 Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKA...abc_4TSAMSRQ9E0MQ9S5RGYT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It’s 36 square feet. I will def have extra. Shoot me your address and ill send you some if you pay shipping. Its heavy but i think it will fit in A priority box for $15

destin_meeks · Feb 1, 2021

Yodastacotruck said: ↑

Says here they are titanium

Click to expand...

Looks like I was told incorrectly. I’ve never held the Subaru tweeter in my hand so I’ve just went on what I was told. If you look down in there and you see silver, it’s not silk dome lol

Yodastacotruck · Feb 1, 2021

destin_meeks said: ↑

Looks like I was told incorrectly. I’ve never held the Subaru tweeter in my hand so I’ve just went on what I was told. If you look down in there and you see silver, it’s not silk dome lol
Click to expand...

yeah it’s silver in there

TonyAndersonUSA · Feb 2, 2021

TenBeers said: ↑

OK, speakers done, @bshammer0 you can choose to include some of these tips in your OP or not, it's your thread . . . just throwing out what I did and what I think might help some folks with this awesome upgrade.

I went with JBL speakers based on some specs, but I don't think there would be much difference with the CS or DS series Kickers, specs are really close as well as price. As long as you stick with speakers that have a sensitivity over 90dB and aren't designed for high-power systems, you should be fine. Front is the Subaru Kicker tweeters, JBL GT7 3-way 6x9's, rear is 2-way GT7 6.5.

I have the Entune Premium HU. I have Bass 3 clicks up, Mid 1 click up and Treble flat in the center. It sounds AWESOME compared to stock, complete difference, no comparison. It did sound a bit better with just the tweeters, but WAY better with the speaker replacement.

Some tips based on my install experience:

- If you don't have panel removal tools, get the orange ones that are recommended in the OP, although you may not need the more expensive set. I went with the cheaper set and it had everything I needed -- but it is well worth the few dollars to avoid marring your interior with a screwdriver or whatever else you have laying around.

- The connector for the power windows on the driver side can be a pain. There is one tab to press down, but it is hard to get it pressed down far enough with your fingers. There is an opening just below the release tab. I used the pointy part of a panel tool to press in that opening and get the connector to release. This is the same connector that gave my grief on my wife's old 4Runner.

- Taking off door panels: Once you have all the small trim and screws out, start from the bottom of the door to get it started. If you are being overly cautious like I was, it could take some time to get the first clip to pop loose. Once it starts popping loose, go evenly side-to-side to avoid trashing your clips. Even if you bought new clips, you don't want to trash the door panel. I got lucky and was able to salvage all my clips, but this is the first time I was able to do that. I trashed multiple clips on previous installs.

- ***Panel clips***: In many cases, especially with the small trim panels, the clips stuck in the door and did not come out with the panel. Be sure to remove the clips from the door and put them on the panel for re-installation! Small panels may go back on OK, but the door panels will not. Several door panel clips stuck in the door, and this is an area where one of those orange fork tools comes in to make things easier. Don't force stuff too much.

- The cheesy featherweight stock speakers have a thin foam insulating ring/gasket type thing where they mate with the door panel. If you are OCD like me, and careful, you can peel that off and stick it to the new speaker adapters. The rear ones require a little stretching as you are sticking it on, but they are foam and stretch easily. Just a little insurance against buzzing or vibration, but probably not necessary.

- Rear speakers: The screws that came with the JBL speakers were too long and stuck through the back of the adapter by about 1/8". This prevented mounting. Regardless of which rear speaker you go with, the screws cannot be protruding past the mounting surface. I had some shorter sheet metal screws that are slightly larger in diameter that worked well. There are also some outer tabs on the adapters I got that needed to be popped off, similar to those inner tabs.

- As already covered, the front Metra speaker adapter screw holes don't line up nice with the 6x9 speakers. Apparently this is an issue with both the Kicker and JBL speakers, so not sure what Metra is using as a standard. As mentioned, start the screws at an angle and you can get them cinched down, it's not that far off.

- Connecting the Metra adapter wires to the speakers takes some finesse. It is a good, tight connection but takes some pressure. Be careful not to damage your new speakers getting the connectors on. Be patient, they will eventually go on. I braced them from the back with the side of a set of pliers so I could get enough leverage.

- You don't want much wire hanging out of the hole on the speaker adapters. Leave most of the wire behind the speaker and the adapter, only the connector needs to be accessible. Too much wire might interfere with getting the door panel back on.

- If you are OCD like me: I spent about 2 hours prepping the speakers and adapters (mounting the speakers, getting the connectors on, securing the wires, etc.) with some family distractions in the middle. It did take about an hour or so to get them installed once prepped. Take your time and don't expect it to take an hour, especially if you haven't done it before. Count on 3 and you should be fine.

Anyway, great find, and I am super happy with the outcome. And I only spent $220! Now I gotta find some Pink Floyd and go sit in my truck . . .
Click to expand...

KICK ASS BUD!!!!
Do you have a link to the exact JBL speakers you installed in the front and rear doors?
I had the JBL system in my 2009 Taco and I loved.
I have the 2019 Taco Double Cab TRD Sport with the factory speakers and they SUUUUUUCK!
Thanks Man!

GRNT4R · Feb 3, 2021

Anyone have the correct part number for the 2nd gen 2010 white door clips for the panel? I figured I would order a few just in case for future preparation. I remember seeing them in a thread previously and thought i copied the link and wrote down the numbers to order from Amazon but i cant find them.

TIA!!!

Juice Weasel · Feb 3, 2021

GRNT4R said: ↑

Anyone have the correct part number for the 2nd gen 2010 white door clips for the panel? I figured I would order a few just in case for future preparation. I remember seeing them in a thread previously and thought i copied the link and wrote down the numbers to order from Amazon but i cant find them.

TIA!!!
Click to expand...

$6 uxcell 25 Pcs White Door Trim Panel Retainer Clips 51411973500 for BMW

uxcell 25 Pcs 9mm White Door Trim Panel Retainer Clips 51411973500

6 bucks Amazon

GRNT4R · Feb 3, 2021

Thanks Juice, Are those the ones you bought or used. wasnt sure if it was this style or the V-clip style. Been searching and found these but can anyone confirm.

$10 Autobahn88 Door and Granish Molding Clip, compatible with Toyota (OEM: 67771-58010) (Pack of 20)

https://www.amazon.com/Garnish-Moul...rd_wg=rCDfQ&psc=1&refRID=9DAC0DCFVAFXXDBWMQ93

Juice Weasel · Feb 3, 2021

GRNT4R said: ↑

Thanks Juice, Are those the ones you bought or used. wasnt sure if it was this style or the V-clip style. Been searching and found these but can anyone confirm.

$10 Autobahn88 Door and Granish Molding Clip, compatible with Toyota (OEM: 67771-58010) (Pack of 20)

https://www.amazon.com/Garnish-Moul...rd_wg=rCDfQ&psc=1&refRID=9DAC0DCFVAFXXDBWMQ93
Click to expand...

$9 Rexka 30pcs Door Garnish Moulding Retainer Clip Compatible with Toyota Lexus 67771-58010 Tundra Tacoma Sequoia RAV4 Land Cruiser Highlander C-HR Yaris Scion xD

Door Garnish Moulding Retainer Clip Compatible with Toyota 67771-58010 Tundra Tacoma Sequoia RAV4 Land Cruiser Highlander C-HR Yaris Scion xD (Pack of 30)

sail panel ones, buy both types.

the first ones are for door panels and floor trim

both confirmed fit, just did my install

GRNT4R · Feb 3, 2021

Juice Weasel said: ↑

$9 Rexka 30pcs Door Garnish Moulding Retainer Clip Compatible with Toyota Lexus 67771-58010 Tundra Tacoma Sequoia RAV4 Land Cruiser Highlander C-HR Yaris Scion xD

Door Garnish Moulding Retainer Clip Compatible with Toyota 67771-58010 Tundra Tacoma Sequoia RAV4 Land Cruiser Highlander C-HR Yaris Scion xD (Pack of 30)

sail panel ones, buy both the first ones are for panels and floor trim
Click to expand...

Great, thank you. I'll order both.

GRNT4R · Feb 3, 2021

DustyMcTaco said: ↑

I bought this:

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

$166 Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKA...abc_4TSAMSRQ9E0MQ9S5RGYT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It’s 36 square feet. I will def have extra. Shoot me your address and ill send you some if you pay shipping. Its heavy but i think it will fit in A priority box for $15
Click to expand...

If the previous guy doesnt need the extra, i would be interested. Thanks

Juice Weasel · Feb 3, 2021

GRNT4R said: ↑

If the previous guy doesnt need the extra, i would be interested. Thanks
Click to expand...

KILMAT 80 mil 18 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

Kilmat 80 mil 18 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

two boxes of this did all four my doors and firewall. Heavy and good adhesion. Same thickness as noico maybe a little better foil too.

GRNT4R · Feb 3, 2021

Nice, I have one box of Noico already set aside so i figured another wouldnt hurt. thats not a bad price either so i may order that if the other guy doesnt have extras.

Did you use any fast rings to go on the speakers?

Juice Weasel · Feb 3, 2021

GRNT4R said: ↑

Nice, I have one box of Noico already set aside so i figured another wouldnt hurt. thats not a bad price either so i may order that if the other guy doesnt have extras.

Did you use any fast rings to go on the speakers?
Click to expand...

yep the foam ones for 16 bucks and I also used 3/8” butyl tape as a gasket for the speakers to mount on the brackets and to wrap around harnesses anywhere they could potentially rattle

Juice Weasel · Feb 3, 2021

...and some of these instead of Toyota connectors so I could easily plug and play different speakers in the future. I also used them on the add an amp harness so I could change routing off speakers if I want to add more channels and fiddle with my LoC

$9 HIGHROCK 5 Kit 2 Pin Way Car Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug with Wire AWG Marine

HIGHROCK 5 Kit 2 Pin Way Car Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug with Wire AWG Marine

also pick up some pink marine grade crimp connectors. 14-18awg. They crimp and then heat shrink super tight with a melted glue and are fully waterproof. Did all this so it’s would be fail proof and robust. And don’t forget zip ties and heat shrink while you are filling your Amazon cart. Other than speakers and amp I got everything for around 100 bucks total. From my experience in studios sound treatment is like the most important thing overlooked.

GRNT4R · Feb 3, 2021

Juice Weasel said: ↑

...and some of these instead of Toyota connectors so I could easily plug and play different speakers in the future.

HIGHROCK 5 Kit 2 Pin Way Car Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug with Wire AWG Marine
Click to expand...

I thought about something similar to that going from the crossover in the door to the speakers so its an easy disconnect in case i decide to mount the crossover on the door panel itself.

Juice Weasel · Feb 3, 2021

GRNT4R said: ↑

I thought about something similar to that going from the crossover in the door to the speakers so its an easy disconnect in case i decide to mount the crossover on the door panel itself.
Click to expand...

do it you won’t regret it

GRNT4R · Feb 3, 2021

I think so too, wish they made it so the wire was bigger than 18guage going to the midbass. be nice if it 5 wire version would hold 14gauge at least. Thanks for all the links and help.

Juice Weasel · Feb 3, 2021

GRNT4R said: ↑

I think so too, wish they made it so the wire was bigger than 18guage going to the midbass. be nice if it 5 wire version would hold 14gauge at least. Thanks for all the links and help.
Click to expand...

10wag. There are all sorts of connectors on Amazon that will work....these are a bit pricier but you get idea. I’m only running like 75watts per channel so 18awg is fine for me for adapters.

$16 5 Pack Audiopipe 12" inch long 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Polarized Plug Wire Harness

5 pack 12" 10 Gauge 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Audiopipe Polarized Wire Harness

15TACOSPORT4X4 · Feb 3, 2021

Just went through this thread. Some good stuff but I thought sound deadening material went on the inside of the doors against the door skin itself not just stuck where the plastic was like I saw in a few pics on here. I'm considering doing this and just want to make sure I get it right. Does it matter. Thanks.

GRNT4R · Feb 3, 2021

You are correct, it goes on the inside against the outer door shell but you can apply some stips to the door panel as well to help prevent it from rattling as well.

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