Aluminum replacement for plastic rear coolant bypass joint

I read somewhere on here in 2018 models they went to the aluminum one. Anyone know if that's correct. I can see shit from top or bottom on my truck.

 

Good to know if this is true or not. Supposedly the updated replacement is also plastic though.

 

I don't think that is correct, pretty sure they are all plastic on the Tacoma's, l believe the aluminum one is from another Toyota or Lexus model.

 

On my 2020 it's plastic.

 

Nice find! I know that bypass is pretty close/trucked up next to the firewall. Is there still clearance with the port facing rearward?

 

That is the big question, and the answer will determine if we can use this with a hose, or if we need to place a tight 90 degree port back there. Next warm stretch I'll be out in the carriage barn to make that determination.

 

There is roughly 1.75"/44mm between the firewall insulation and the end of the hose barb. A hose with a tight 90 bend would likely suffice, especially with a chafe guard. I'm not a trusting soul, though, things move and shake! A 90 degree fitting of some type is the proper solution here.

If anyone is interested, I can produce a few more of these with the 90.

 

Nice! Following

 

What if we just get a 3d printed ABS elbow?


I joke, I joke. I'm fersure interested, I'm definitely not easy on my truck and I feel my bypass is a tickin time bomb in this AZ heat.

 

Did you make your own 90? Hard to tell in the pic, I looked last night again and still can't locate any residue but just from seeing several posts its just waiting to happen. It's the easiest approach to pull top end? I haven't worked on engines in a while, prob could figure it out minus having a solution to the plastic crap. Please do upload more pics!

 

Lol... nah, has to PP GF35.

 

No 90 yet. Looking for something off the shelf.

 

That's how the dealer does it. Combine it with your plugs and maybe a few other things and it shodnt be a bad full day.

 

didnt someone say in another thread they were able to replace it by pulling the intake manifold? Cant remember for positive...

 

That's what my dealer said it would take but they ended up unbolting the engine from the motor mounts and "tipping" the engine to get it done. He said it was still a MF'r to do it that way but at least he didn't have to unbolt the top end of a 32k mile engine to get it done. Not too confident it won't happen again sometime down the road. At least they covered it under warranty.

 

Seems like removing the mal-placed fitting and maybe drill, tap, and/or braze a new fitting in?

 

Sub'd

 

I may have to nab a spare one of these aluminum by-pass parts 'just in case'.
I already have a spare oil filter housing thats aluminum instead of the original plastic one that got seized on.

My bypass isn't leaking yet, but I also only have 23,000 miles or so on my 2GR-FKS.

If anyone happens to know of a how-to thread for re-placing that by-pass joint, I wouldn't mind saving that .

While I'm not super worried about taking the intake all apart, the comment about tilting the engine sounds like a bit of a hassle...and not fun.
I try not to take apart more then I have to, if I can help it.

Overall though, very helpful thread.

 

Mine has a small seep of "cotton candy" growth at the moment, not nearly enough to consider repairing it yet. From what I have read, there seems to be two schools of thought on how to repair this.

Either the straightforward approach of tearing apart the entire top of the engine to access the coolant pipe. Or the more creative method of dropping the transmission, which will give you direct access to part. The later I think would be easier if you have access to a lift. The third option that you mentioned involves unbolting the transmission from the driveshaft and transfer case, unbolting the transmission and motor mounts, and pressing up on the transmission to tilt the whole engine forward. I still majan you're going to have to disassemble part of the intake to go in from the top.

I would very much like to see some DIY pictures from people that have attempted each of these to weigh the pros and cons of each method.

 

Good to know. Someone previously posted a photo or video of a dealership raising the cab of the truck off of the frame which made me cringe on the number of future problems that truck will have from wires and/or hose being pinched, ground wires being left off, rattles and/or creaks that weren't there before, and on and on.