Kimbo Camper BS and Mods

Here are the links on the shower and the water tank I'm going to use, I'll be storing the water tank in the 'gills/galleys' of the truck bed.

https://www.joolca.com/products/hot...hkTAV3acy-0aQRGyVG4pLXylP3uRx9rRoCH7IQAvD_BwE

https://www.recpro.com/21-gallon-rv-water-tank-39-x-16-x-8-nsf-certified-and-bpa-free/

I may add a more permanent outdoor shower setup down the road, but this seemed to work for now. When I go on ski trips I won't bring it and I'll have room for other stuff.

Also, I peeled the Kimbo stickers off the camper.

 

Yeah probably do this with the front one soon.

 

That's awesome - after I asked, I saw the video come out with the interview.

The coatings are for the inside, under the insulation - the thermal break is to solve the condensation issues.

Can't wait to see your 'basement'!!

Check out the 'L' track systems - there is an earlier post with a guy that uses this system extensively for all kinds of accessories. The 'L' track also fits nicely with the aluminum aesthetic of the Kimbo.

Solar isn't charging - that's not good...is there any voltage coming out of the connector?

 

Thats a great idea using the jacks as a mounting point for the 80/20.

 

Looking at the Kimbo, this would probably have to go on the opposite side of the ladder and skis would need to be on the outside of the jacks due to length. It might me a bit wide for some rigs. Didn't know if you thought about getting a welder to create a simple T design hitch mount to rack the ski horizontal about the tailgate hight or higher. A blend of these two pictures. May be easier to load multiple pairs too. A pair of 190's, biggest I've seen these days is about the same width of a Tacoma, your truck a bit wider probably. I have a swing out that would allow it to be placed close to the back.

 

Building a swing out myself - mountain bike rack attachment with additional lighting because if you get more than one bike back there it starts to obscure the brake lights/turn signals...

 

Found out the issue with the solar, bad MC4 connection. Easy fix, next day delivery!

Yeah the L track looks like a great way to mount stuff.

I'm thinking of cutting some thick carpet to the shape of the floor, it will insulate a bit, protect the existing floor, and provide some cushion for the feet. Pull it out and vacuum it when needed.

Voltron4x4, I like the hitch mount idea for skis. Looks like I can learn how to weld now.

 

Great excuse! On my list of things to learn too. Glad you figured it out. A lot of good Goal Zero adapters with out the goal zero price here if you want something like a 8mm to MC4 connector or something.

https://powerwerx.com

 

Diesel Heater Install and Upgrades

After researching and watching a few hours of Youtube videos, I managed to install my 5kw diesel heater with results I'm very happy with. This is by no means the only way but I will point out a few requirements or mistakes that could cause issues down the road.

First step, drill some big holes. I used a 1 inch hole bit and cleaned/slightly widened the exhaust and air intake openings with a step bit. I used a 5/16 bit for the others. You'll need to drill out from the outside the two rivets with a 5/32 bit. I actually reused one of these for one of the heater mount. This positioned it forward to give a good about of room for the fan intake.

Wiring is shown below to the cab wall and into my "solar system."



Once placed, I used some high temp sealant along with the supplied silicone gasket. I may go bak and add some high temp silicone on the outside but not too worried with what's already in place with regards to the elements. I did have to cut and rewire the electrical for the fuel pump, just mark what you think the positive is because they use the same wire for both.



First upgrades: The air intake for the heater is short and flimsy, it could easily be crushed blocking the engine from breathing. I use a general purpose flexible exhaust hose from NAPA instead. You just have to use some tin snips to fit it around the intake. It makes a solid seal and much more durable than what was shipped with. I also added a little filter similar to the one we use on that first mod to our Tacoma's secondary intake. Again there is no real filter shipped with it, just a plastic end to keep bugs from crawling in. A little VHB 3M tape holds it on the side without any drilling. You can also see the upgraded exhaust pipe. This is the nice Webasto one. Due to its length, I came up with a way to direct it through the bed and out the driver's side with the exhaust pipe that came with the heater. More on that to come.

$25 36061296 90394 Exhaust Pipe 24mm with Clamps Replace Webasto Eberspacher

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086PQ4GNP?ie=UTF8

$9 AUTUT 25mm Inlet Motorcycle Air Filter Replacement Cylindrical Intake Mesh Filter Accessory

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MZKJMCG?ie=UTF8



Fuel System Upgrades: Not really up grades, but you should replace the supplied fuel lines with proper sized fuel lines and hoses. First make sure you have the hard nylon fuel line. Next it needs to be 2mm inner diameter. Right is the stock one, left was purchased below.

$10 uxcell Pneumatic Tubing, 4mm OD x 2mm ID Air Brake Tube Nylon Air Line Water Hose 5m Translucent

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TCVVY7F?ie=UTF8



Due to the smaller outside diameter of the new fuel line, you have to change the rubber fuel line used to connect to the fuel filter, pump, and heater to get a solid seal. Use some hot water and soap to get the nylon hose through.

$10 Grey Fuel/Vent Line - 3.5mm 1/8" - 1 Meter (3 Feet) - Compatible with Honda Kawasaki Suzuki Yamaha

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TV941P?ie=UTF8

Fuel System: Here you can see the order and orientation of the fuel system. From the right is the hose coming from the FuelPax. I used this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074TV941P?ie=UTF8

Next is to the fuel filter which is commonly installed backwards, then to the pump. On the other side is where you need to start using the nylon fuel line for air bubble management. It also needs to be at a 30 degree angle allowing the air bubbles to travel upwards. You use the smaller rubber fuel line to make the connections, just make sure that the nylon line is right up against the fuel pump outlet and heater inlet. You don't want bubbles getting caught in any gaps. I also used some foam insulation to help with some of the sound of the pump. Added some protection for the pump power line and will do the same with all fuel lines to keep any grime off the clamps. Which reminds me, I made sure to get stainless steel ones from Home Depot just in case. Use some pliers with the smallest ones to shape them rounder when tightening. The bolt that was drilled for the pump is located in the mud room bottom panel.




Fuel Tank Assembly: One Fuelpax that came with a free mount then add one Briggs and Stratton Fuel Valve Service Kit. The first valve came from Amazon and leaked so went name brand from Home Depot. Also added a quick disconnect linked below. You can also see the one way breather valve that I'll seal the edges around. They make a screw on and off one but this seems like it will be better protected from the elements when in use. It's what is used on touring dirt bike tanks. To ensure a complete seal I also use some Seal All around the gasket. Be sure to seal the bolts on the inside and outside. I used Sikaflex 221.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Briggs-...S-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WJ29490228

Hotwin Nylon Fuel Line Quick Connect Release Disconnect Hose 6.30mm SAE1/4" 6mm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJQ4R4G?ie=UTF8

YOKEPO Billet Gas Fuel Cap Air Vent Hose Tube Breather For Motorcycle Motocross Pit Dirt Bike (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K6LFJMN?ie=UTF8

$8 Seal-All 380112 Contact Adhesive and Sealant - 2 fl oz, Steel

https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380...GW2FYKKQZZE5YYQAQ&refRID=M69GW2FYKKQZZE5YYQAQ

$20 Sika Sikaflex-221 - Black - Multi-purpose polyurethane sealant/adhesive - Creates permanent elastic seal - Sandable/paintable - Non-corrosive - 10.1 fl oz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW5LWHA?ie=UTF8




I'll be building a wooden box with a vent in the back soon. It will hide the wires and I'll mount the control panel with velcro on the metal divider. The heater takes up 7.5 inches where the foam is cut.

Oh yeah, and the table is finished!



Went down the rabbit hole and found this guru that calculated settings for altitude.

 

Table pics. Toasted the border to hide the plywood layers. Birch with tung oil and Wipe on Poly Gloss. Added some wood trim with a piece of maple with the same treatment.

 

Very nice!! Looks like you're making some serious progress - I spy a wood stove installed!!

Have you figured out the kitchen sink/cooktop/etc?

 

Kitchen/storage draft #1

Since we had planned to go snow camping - I only had a day to get something together to keep everything from falling on the floor at the first turn.

It actually worked out pretty well at keeping stuff in place and also accessible.

The stove fits through the hole and stores nicely underneath - freeing up counter space.

Need to redo it and implement some stuff learned when initially building it.

Faucet/sink/fresh-gray water still needed in this same space...to be continued

The c

 

This is coming along nicely - can't wait to see what you've got in store to cover the heater.

With both the wood stove and the diesel heater, you'll be able to heat the neighborhood in a pinch - might need a few more windows

 

Thanks! Not installed yet. Still planning the hearth and backsplash for it. I have some brass sheets and mineral wool that I will be incorporating behind it and some barn corrugated metal for a heat shield. Also waiting on two sections of flue to come in. Taking forever. There will be a kitchen top with a mini sink and water rotopax on the wall with spigot, gravity fed plumbing. Have some ideas to create some mounting points for shelves too. Foam will be going back on with HDPE spacers for wood slats on top. Similar to the van below. Hopefully I can duplicate it on the opposite wall without taking up too much space, probably one inch on top of foam. Need to plan for fire wood storage somewhere too.

 

That looks great. Nice stove!

 

I figure the stove for the waking hours and diesel for bed time. But yeah until we figure it out I may be hanging out the window. But all dry!

 

Also need to practice my router skills. Those cuts look clean.

 

Thanks - a router seems to make up for a multitude of sins (i've only used it twice), I'm a metal guy but have been forced into dabbling with wood recently.

 

So, a thought just occurred to me - during the general walk through, Kimbo recommends opening a window when turning on the fan/starting the furnace...and that means that unless a window/vent is open there is zero fresh air - stagnant moist air is one of the primary contributors to condensation. Has anyone considered adding vents lower in the Kimbo to increase airflow?

 

Also, don't have the window shades down or they'll get sucked out with an open window. The thing is amazingly sealed. The fan actually struggles to pull the air up without an open window. I think vents would cause a concern for water to come in, but an additional fan plugged in lower would help if you are keeping all windows closed.

I did stay in rainy weather without heat while on the coast of Cali for a couple of days. While the air did get thick if the fan wasn't running, it didn't cause any issues. We still kept the windows cracked in 40 degree temps. It was chilly but still comfortable.