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Bed outlet

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by LancerRevo, Jan 23, 2019.

  1. Jan 23, 2019 at 10:33 PM
    #1
    LancerRevo

    LancerRevo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is the 07 PreRunner 4.0v6 DCLB pre-wired for the bed outlet?? Ill be picking one up from a buddy of mine with the button as well. It's from an 05. How can i get it wired up to my truck if it isn't pre-wired? Hes parting out the truck and may have to cut the wires that are in the bed outlet. Hoping someone that has added one to their truck has advice and tips. Thank you!
     
  2. Jan 23, 2019 at 10:51 PM
    #2
    dustin19d

    dustin19d Well-Known Member

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    Your buddy is parting out his truck with a bed outlet, and you’re wondering if you can swap the outlet into your truck that didn’t come with one from the factory?

    I highly doubt they installed inverters in trucks not equipped with the bed outlet From the factory. Seems like a good way to loose money.
    Here’s the wiring harness behind the right rear light assembly that powers the outlet.
    64EE8E42-B09D-4183-AA0A-F2BC60C9B116.jpg

    The inverter is located under the center console. Don’t have a picture of it but it’s a silver box with a fan built in. You’re also missing the switch. Would be so much easier to just hardwire an inverter and mount it in the cab.
     
  3. Jan 23, 2019 at 10:59 PM
    #3
    LancerRevo

    LancerRevo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That is correct! He's gonna give me the one from it. The switch, inverter from under the seat and the bed outlet. Think that's all that's needed. Not sure if we can pull the wiring through to use it. So why we were thinking of cutting it at the bed. Haven't got a chance to take it off either. That picture helps a lot as well thank you
     
  4. Jan 23, 2019 at 11:10 PM
    #4
    LancerRevo

    LancerRevo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is it possible just to run it straight to the switch and all, and just have it full power when the button is hit, then off when button is off?
     
  5. Jan 23, 2019 at 11:18 PM
    #5
    dustin19d

    dustin19d Well-Known Member

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    Man that’s a complicated job the way the OEM equipment is wired into the truck! Way over my pay grade. I’d just install an aftermarket one in the cab that can be run without the motor running but that’s just me.
     
    El Duderino likes this.
  6. Jan 23, 2019 at 11:39 PM
    #6
    LancerRevo

    LancerRevo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I get you haha. I think/hope we can figure a way to get it done. Thank you for the help so far!
     
  7. Jan 24, 2019 at 6:37 AM
    #7
    Neveraeon

    Neveraeon Member

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    So, I've started this project of installing the OEM inverter into a base model 2012 Tacoma. The truck is partially wired for it with the wiring between the inverter location in the center console leading to the area in the dash where the switch will go. That is it. You will need to wire from the outlet itself to the inverter and then another wire run from the inverter into the engine bay where you will also need to source a relay, fuse and the harness to connect the dash switch to it all. If I was to start again, I would forget the OEM outlet and just put an aftermarket inverter in. I haven't even finished my install yet, because I need to take apart the dash and figure out where the wires that connect to the switch go since they don't go into the relay box like they should.

    If you do plan on doing it though, good luck and let me know how it works out.
     
  8. Jan 24, 2019 at 6:53 AM
    #8
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    The OEM invertor is nice to have if your truck came with it, but it's not worth going to all the effort to add it. It's only 400 watts, which is enough to power a laptop, or a cordless drill battery charger, or a string of LED Christmas lights. If you want an invertor, install 1 that does more watts.
     
  9. Feb 25, 2021 at 9:57 PM
    #9
    YOTAKROACH

    YOTAKROACH Member

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    2009 Base 4x4 AC 2.7
    So my truck got hit in the bed and I found a black TRD bed to replace it, has the inverter plug. I would like to have it work since it's there. sounds like I can take the wire off of the donor truck that leads from the bed to the inverter (is it under the seat? or is it under the center console?) and then your saying that it should have the wire going from the inverter to the switch area but I still need the wire from the engine bay and the relay and the harness for the switch?

    Did you ned up completing this or have any idea what else I should canabolize from the donor truck to make it work?
     
  10. Feb 26, 2021 at 5:26 AM
    #10
    wmgeorge

    wmgeorge Well-Known Member

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    FYI 400 / 12 = 33.3 12 volt amps and the add in the loss in the conversion 20% or so your looking at about 40 amp draw on the 12 volt line. That is why your truck needs to run when using the full 400 watts.
     
  11. Feb 26, 2021 at 6:25 AM
    #11
    Wattapunk

    Wattapunk Stay lifted my friends !

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    OP, what do you plan on using the bed outlet for? It may not be worth the hassle of install to find out the end result is not being able to power your equipment. Mine is enough to temporarily run a small air compressor and anything larger than that I would carry along my small Ryobi 2300W gas generator. Installing a larger aftermarket inverter would likely require a dual battery setup, higher output alternator and wiring.
     
  12. Feb 26, 2021 at 6:30 AM
    #12
    wmgeorge

    wmgeorge Well-Known Member

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    Ditto, I have a 500 watt invertor I have had for years, carried under the rear seat. Heavy wire cables with alligator clips to go on the battery, powered a Sawzall or circular saw when needed. 4.1 amps 500 watts output.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2021
  13. Feb 26, 2021 at 3:15 PM
    #13
    08TacoTrD

    08TacoTrD Well-Known Member

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    5100's and 883 OME Coils TRD Exhaust Deaver 1.5" AAL Rear Differential Breather Extension, 4WD Light, Tailgate Pipe clamp, Fog lights on while High Beams on, Carrier Bearing flip
    It's only 3.3 amps 120volts. It'll run more than most say if you know the amps of the devices you want to run but for the hassle, I'd install an aftermarket one that has more amps.
     

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