Yes Yes, I know, I'm sorry, 2" vs 2.5"

I know tire size and lift have been mentioned a million times on here. I'm sorry to have you answer more. I have a 2011 TRD off-road with ~ 155K miles. The suspension is pretty shot. It sits at about the same height as a ford focus. I'm 5'10 and have to sit down to get in the truck. For my Christmas in April (tax season) purchase I am getting new suspension and tires (possibly wheels, but we will see). I currently drive about 80-100 miles every day, so as much as I want 285/75 R16's, that would could push me too far on fuel expenses. So currently I plan on getting 265/75 R16s. These will fit on stock ride height so they would be fine on a 2"-2.5" lift. Planning ahead, if I were to eventually get a job closer to home, I would think about moving up to the 285s. The only off-roading I do is soft sand, so the extra ground clearance isn't needed, but I do like the looks. The question is, should I put a 2" lift or a 2.5" lift (Bilstein 5100's with 884 or 885, and AAL)? I assume both will be fine with the 285's if I eventually go that route with most likely a CMC and plastic melting. As I'm typing this out, I have a tape measure to see what 1/2" looks like. Looks like an almost negligible amount, but what do I know. Any insight on my 2" vs 2.5" set up would be appreciated as I'm sure many of you have had gone from 265 to 285s and may have wished you planned better or done something different in the beginning. Thanks for your help TW!

 

doesnt matter the lift height, 285's simply wont fit in the wheel well without cab mount chop / pinch weld flattening, inner fender trimming / removal.

at over 1.5ish in of lift you are going to need UCA's to get alignment proper, dont forget about that.

 

Get a fresh coil springs and a set of OEM Leaf springs (4 leaf pack) either by bringing it into the dealer and getting the TSB done for leafs or by buying a set of used off 2nd or 3rd gen take-offs from Craigslist or FB marketplace from someone who removed theirs to install a lift. Then get Bilstein 5100's front and back, set shocks to 1 notch above bottom.
This is the setup I have and I love it with my 265 75 16. Front is leveled with rear. It will restore the ride height to more normal too. Any more "lift" will kill your MPG
Just my opinion

 

Of you're just looking for height go with the skinny 255's. Not as much rolling resistance and should lower rpm on the hwy

 

Lift height doesn’t matter for tire clearance, so get the lift you want. Later down the road get the tire size you want, and take care of trimming the wheel wells.

 

I went with 265's because I wanted the biggest I could go without trimming, cutting, chopping. Whenever I get new tires in a couple years, I'll probably move up to 285's, but then again maybe not. I'm running a 2" lift too.

 

I did 2" lift (2884s) up front a few months ago with 1.5 aal in the back. Kinda wish I did 2.5 to level it more, still rocking about an inch of rake. Might move the snap ring up a slot if I get ambitious.I thought 2" would be more noticeable. It looks stock to me.
As others mentioned, 285s are mostly about looks, not wheeling. They will still rub when moving though the travel without trim work regardless of lift.

 

I have a 2.5” lift with 285/70 17s . No CMC ,trimmed front inner fender well. That’s it . Only slight rub in reverse at full lock . I do have Total Chaos UCAs .

 

any chance you can send me some pictures of your truck. I see in yours has a cap and wanted to know how much of that rake goes away with the cap due to the weight of it on a 2' by 1.5". I also have a cap. When you did the aal in the rear, did you keep your stock leaf springs or get a fresh pair?

 

I had TSB springs about 3 years old, they appeared pretty flat. Added the HS 3 leaf pack, left the overload out. (The OL is actually another 1/2” -3/4” on top)
I got about 1 3/4” lift over where it was. (It may settle a bit I’d wager)Ride is really good.

the front I did 2884 on 5100s. 1/4” drivers side spacer to compensate for my taco lean.

The truck has a solid 1” rear rake still. I think if I did it over I’d got with the 2885s to balance it better.

My tires are still stock size for winter. Have not decided on new size for spring.
Just one size up? I think 285s would look sweet but probably will compromise handling a bit? (Heavier?)

 

I had 285/75/16's on a toytec lift with spc upper control arms on oem 7.5" wheels and it did rub the mount. When I went to 285/70/17's on new scs 8.5" wide wheels I only had to trim the fender liner a little and didn't touch the cab mount.

 

Looks good! My 884's have settled just a little bit, but with the overload spring still in place, I feel like I need a little more in the front end also now. I'm having my buddy's shop put in my 885's next Friday. I also have a skid plate on order which will add even more weight to the front, so that played a little in my decision to up them 85's.

 

This is exactly the same lift on the same truck I was going to get, Thank you for posting!!

 

There are better options than chopping. Check out www.jdfabrication.com offerings. As well as read the entire conversation at https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/25189677/

 

2.5" lift springs out back gets you more clearance between the bumpstops and frame, mildly increasing the capability of truck to absorb bumps
(FYI for readers, a block lift does not give you more bumpstop clearance, it does nothing but lift)

Bilstein 5100s are garbage, literally throwing money away. Aren't the OME springs increased rate? That is not beneficial for stock truck weight (if that's what you have), especially driving 80+ miles a day

Maybe think about getting 3rd gen TRD Pro Fox 2.5s, and getting a lift coil spring or lift insert under the coil spring

 

on a DD truck... really? lol

 

i also opted for the spc light racing UCAs. Some say not necessary under 2.5 or 3” but I didn’t want to do it twice, or be at the Max end of camber adjustment. Easy enough DIY.

Edit: Also, I believe the OME springs are pretty close to the stock rate. Maybe 10lbs more?
I think the ride is good. Firm but not hard. Little Less brake dive and wallow. Contemplated fox’s 2.0 and 2.5 kits. Decided the 5100s are probably more durable/more life for how I use it.
It’s sees 95% pavement for me, no need for fade resistance with bigger reservoirs.

 

Best answer ^

 

I always read that stock UCA’s are fine until about 2.5” at the minimum .. usually around 3” of lift is where you for sure want to replace them

 

If you want good alignment specs, UCA's that dont touch coils at droop, or ball joints that dont limit droop, you want aftermarket UCA's.

Stock uca at 1.75in of lift i couldnt get much more than 1.7* of caster and driving suffered.