Forced Induction Exhaust Setups & Discussion

Yes, the closer to the heads the cats are will heat them up significantly.
Exhaust:
The importance of exhaust components in order (traditionally) is S follows from most important to least
Headers
Y-pipe (my application effectively extends the headers into a more efficient system)
After y-pipe. With 3" mandrel bends your flow will be fine.
Most of the gains are near the engine where we take advantage of scavenging.

 

Thanks, Roost. I appreciate being able to utilize your prior research. I've changed the exhaust up a few times now and am ready to get a solid setup so I can tackle other areas.

 

Has anyone painted their Y-pipe? New one is 304SS but due to living in Salt country wanting to make it last. A darker paint on the outside will help the tube bleed heat.

How about painting inside the tubes? This would do the opposite and help keep the heat inside, which could protect external components. Eastwood Paints suggest doing so for increased longevity, they have a spray wand kit.

Figure the headers are ceramic coated inside and out, I should continue with the theme.

 

A few have ceramic coated or Ceracoated their full exhausts.

You'd have to dig through my y-pipe thread to see pics.

 

Make the exhaust out of inconel. No paint needed.

 

Got any spare inconel tubing? You can have it back when I am done.

 

Looking further into the Eastwood internal exhaust coating. "Not for turbocharged and supercharged vehicles." They limit temps to 1800F, verse VHT silica-ceramic is 2000F.

 

Left it at the forge. Tell em I sent ya.

 

Exhaust resubmission:

Custom 2.5" true dual Y to X pipe variable boost cutout activated exhaust. Y converts to full flow X at 7 PSI.

- Boost cutout supplied by Loud Valves

- Wicked flow X- pipe

- Dual Black Widow Venom 250 mufflers

- Dual exit piping







https://youtu.be/aTcVmnfaDLc

 

Welcome back brother

 

Thank you! Good to be back brother.

 

Looking into some setups for my CA or ( low key for a period of time CA setup).

Just ordered some DT shorties which are supposed to have pending carb coming now that JBA no longer sells them.
I Will have 3" Catback into a Black Widow Venom 250
For the Y I am on the list for a JFR I will deal with swapping if needed when smog comes but in the meantime, I am going to have a shop do the Y setup.

After the cat on the headers I know they like to open it up at the shop I am going to have done it. Likely prob 2 1/4 to meet the Y pipe. Should I make sure that the shop keeps the factory mounting points for the Y and Y to Cat? Is there any benefits to having different points clamped instead of welded? I saw one setup where they did this on the cat of the header so they could replace it easily if needed.

Are there preferred clamps to use? I want to order or have him order the right goods. The shop works on a lot of track cars and hot rods and will be using a mandrel and welded piping instead of regular bent shop pipping.

In the Y I assume get 4 bungs upfront so I can have the stock and AFR's added, just need to get some o2 sims to go with them.

 

Were they bolt on clamps, or v-band clamps? Bolt-on use gaskets. V-bands do not.

 

For the Cat portion, I mentioned? Likely V-Bands based on the setup. that likely answers my question. Is it worth doing v-bands throughout or sticking with bolt on? Header to why if kept stick would need a bolt on unless converted and I guess the same for the Y to cat-back.

I asked him to do a 3" collection of the Y into the cat for a better transition.

 

If removing the OEM donut gasket/flange, the you have to install a flex coupling.

 

Makes sense. Is it worth doing so?

 

Just listened to that again. Sounds good.

 

you still running the stock cats on this setup? assuming so but couldn't tell.

 

I intentionally drop the back windows every day now to listen to it. It's refreshingly fun to be able to do it and enjoy listening to the exhaust.

All two of them.