Help.. Audio build with 20 year old Equipment

Hello, I was the lucky recipient of a new frame on my 2009 DCLB, at same time I had some new stuff installed including a TRD exhaust which has inspired me to finally sound deaden the cab (Floor, doors, roof, back wall). I'm currently half way through sound deadening and realize now would be good time to try and utilize the stereo equipment I saved from my college days. Hoping to get some ideas and advise to best use the equipment below.

Currently Installed
Head unit - Pioneer AVH-P440BH
Front Tweeters - 1" tweeter from Kenwood KFC-P602 component set (150w max)
Front woofer - 6x9 4-way Kenwood KFC-6986, has aged brittle cracked tweeters, no crackling though (220w max)
Rear speakers - stock

Collecting Dust
6 1/2" midrange from KFC-P602 component set (150w max)
Kenwood 4 Channel Amp KAC-848, 50w x 4 or 150w x 2
Kenwood 2 Channel Amp KAC-628, 50w x 2 or 150w x 1
Blaupunkt PCA1300 300w x 1 mono amp

Ordered

$280 Rockford Fosgate P300-8P Punch 8" 300-Watt Amplified Subwoofer in Ported Enclosure - Slim Design for Tight Spaces - Black

Rockford Fosgate P300-8P


What I'm Thinking
I remember when I swapped out the head unit and front speakers I went from horrible lack of clarity where I had a hard time interpreting speech to the replacement speakers being almost two harsh on the ears. I chalked that up to having 4-way brittle 6x9s and tweeters in front doors. I either worked it out on the eq settings, destroyed the tweeters or have gotten used it. Either way I know it can be better. I am curious what it would sound like if I cut the power wire if not fully remove the tweeters on the 6x9s which would just leave me with 6x9 woofers. Thinking that would remove the harshness but hoping the Kenwood 1" tweeters would suffice for the highs. I think putting the 6.5" Kenwood woofers in the rear doors should work fine to fill/add to mid bass. Plan on putting new P300-8P behind passenger rear seat with plastics removed along with amp/amps.

Questions
how to utilize amps?

1. Most configurability - use 4 channel for front only, each woofer and tweeter get 50w channel which allows for the active crossovers to seperate woofers and tweeters. Use 2 channel amp for the rear speakers, each speaker gets 50w channel.

2. Most wattage - Bridge 4 channel so each front pair get 150w, stereo (L/R) maintained but loose ability to use crossovers (woofer/tweeter), I believe this is more power than rated for these speakers but I doubt I'd ever crank it to max. Bridge 2 channel amp for rear so two woofers get 75w each but mono.
​

Suggestions on new equipment?

Call me frugal, call me cheap, but this is what I have to work with. I am open to new equipment suggestions but also know it is a quick drop down the rabbit hole especially since if I ordered something I'd want to do it right. If you see something that would be a good bang for my buck please point it out. I was intrigued by the Kicker tweeters everyone writes about but I'm not limited to stock wiring so there may be better options. ​

I appreciate you taking time to read my thread. I look forward to comments and suggestions.

 

According to the manuals those are 75W @ 4 Ohms, so I think you have a little more power than you think you do. Regardless, I would install the Kenwood component woofers in the front doors, toss the 4 way junk and power your four door speakers with the 4 channel amp, and the tweeters with the 2 channel amp. Buy a DSP (not the Dayton).

The only reason to replace your amps is that having 3 amps by adding a subwoofer is going to take up a ton of space, and you really should get a 6 channel DSP amplifier instead of 6 channels split between two amps.

 

Thanks for response dolbytone. Are you referring to my comment about bridging the 2 channel amp for rear (75w@2ohms)? If I bridge both 6.5” woofers wouldn’t that be 2x 4ohms to be 2ohms? I couldn’t find complete specs on speakers so I’m assuming they are 4ohm each.

I know I should probably throw up 6x9s but they have always given me good mid bass more so than 6.5”. Cutting the tweeters out may just get them closer to trash. The sub has a built in amp so I just need room for the two amps. A dsp would be nice, I am not two familiar with them so I have my research cut out for me. I looked at couple recommended 6 channels and very pricey $800+.

 

I was referring to amplifier power for the models you listed. I went and read the manuals.

 

What’s wrong with Dayton I just came across it on Amazon. Do you have suggestion for different one?

 

I mean... I guess it does what it does right? It's a DSP and it has the necessities, crossover, EQ, channel balancing and all that. I just kind of have reservations when I'm looking at an entry level product and it's made by a company that doesn't specialize. Dayton makes all kinds of bullshit, it's the same reason I don't buy LG stuff, FFS when is the LG motorcycle coming out right? So I've had Dayton drivers in the past times, and I just thought they were extremely mediocre, then I realized I sorta bought them because of how much they cost and it looked like the numbers were there so I ended up giving them a try. I'll give stuff a shot, yanno? I was just disappointed.

Now, I have no first hand experience with the Dayton DSP, but I certainly do see a lot of Skar sporting deal chasers running after them because that's what they are doing, trying to get a deal, not a great DSP. It's a fully functional basic bitch entry level affordable DSP, that will do the job if you want the features but aren't trying to build a serious SQ rig.

So, if you're like the 90% of dudes on Tacomaworld that only gives a shit about how big the screen is rather than the electronics inside when they buy a new head unit, I'm sure the Dayton DSP will serve you well. Otherwise, I don't recommend it.