Shifter Bushing Replacement

Very nice,

This posting should also say to replace or check the transmission and Tcase pressure valves when the console is taken out.
They are 5.00 items and if they get plugged up you can blow a seal in the transmission or the Tcase.
They are common to get stuck closed from dirt and age

 

Oh so now you tell me. How does one check these? Do the caps just pop off or something?

 

The whole piece pulls straight out,
They are one piece.

They should wiggle around and be able to move up and down.
If they get clogged the pressure inside the transmission will blow out the rubber seal.

This is a common issue with the rear axle with this same valve and the rear seal blows out with the dealership costing 800.00 to fix the seal because a 5.00 valve was not inspected.

But if you see alot of oil or leaking coming from one of these valves then its stuck open or defective

 

Hi y'all. I'm looking to do this as a PM. Are these the only replacement parts I need for my 96 5 lugs?

Seat:

$9 Toyota Genuine (33505-35020) Seat Shift Sub-Assembly

33505-35020
Bushing:

$10 Toyota Shift Lever Bushing - 33548-31010

33548-31010

I see in another thread that someone calls out for a deflector (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/changing-fluids-what-do-you-fluids-are-you-guys-using.636660/).

bushing 33548-31010
deflector 33144-35030
seat 33505-0k010

What is the deflector for? and I assume the part number for the seat was mistyped?

thanks for your help.

 

John, how do you get the knob off? It is supposed to screw on/off right? Is there a trick to it? Lock nut? I can't budge mine.

 

The shift knob is threatened on,

Bear down on it, it should come loose

 

Thanks, I will try to get tough with it.

 

Can someone please tell me if those part numbers are correct for my 1996 Toyota Tacoma 4.7 2 wheel drive truck reg cab? will order it, damn my right hand is about as bad as my shifter is will be 80 in 4 months I need a new finger joint, my middle finger is the worse one

 

You have to get the parts specific to your transmission

 

I ordered it from Auto zone, I'm not sure I can do it, my damn hand is so bad, I may regret it, if it was not for COVID I would have had hand surgery my fingers look bad, who's here is in CT, I'm in Southbury who wants to pick up fast buck cash, I fear screwing up my hand, more than screwing up the truck???

 

OK got the shift knob to come loose but the 4WD knob twists without loosening. Like it is separated internally. Any ideas?

 

Ok, so the nut inside probably has come loose from the knob.

It’s rubber-plastic, so slowly cut the knob in half and get a new knob or a used one.

Try pulling straight up super hard too

 

FYI - I may be a tad late but you don't need to remove the knobs to do the bushings or seats. Might make it a tad easier but you can get to the seat and bushing with the shifter/boot/knob still all together. You're experience might differ because you're 4x4; I am 2wd 5lug.

 

No mine is 2 wheel drive, Where do you live I found an expert locally if I srew up who offered to bail me out

 

Hope I'm not getting in trouble reviving an older thread or posting in the first gen section but I just did the marlin crawler seat and OEM shifter bushing swap in my 2007 6-speed Tacoma. I had tons of slop in it beforehand and it would frequently jump out of 3rd and 5th gear, if I went over a hard bump, no grinding though, abnormal noises and drove perfectly fine otherwise. With the new bushing and shifter seat i noticed a large improvement in shifting and tightness however, I still find the trans pops out of 3rd and 5th, usually on a big bump, or if I'm not on the gas after shifting. Still no grinding though. It goes into gear perfectly fine but if I'm not on the gas after releasing the clutch it may pop out on a bump or if i let off the gas while driving, it'll work its way out sometimes. I'm sure these were the same symptoms before but I got used to driving this way and maybe just became more aware of them expecting a larger improvement after replacing the parts.

Is there a larger issue at play I'm overlooking? Could I have installed the lock ring incorrectly and maybe it isn't fully locked into place? I checked the lock ring a few times because I expected it to be more difficult after reading these threads, but no, went in fine. If it isn't an issue and it's just a quirk of the truck, I don't care since it drives normal and nothing seems out of the ordinary really, I might be comparing it too much to the transmission on my Mazdaspeed3 lol. But I want to ensure I'm not overlooking something before it becomes a real issue. Thanks !

 

Jumping out of gear is a transmission issue outside of some crazy inertia that might happen if pulling air so, yeah, you are not that lucky. I am not extremely familiar with that transmission but I rebuilt my first one 40 years ago and I dont think your issue is busing related.

 

Oh yes, mine was so worn that barely anything was left of the old one

 

I figured if something like the syncros were worn or the gears i wouldn't have power or would hear grinding but I get none of that, it drives, sounds and feels very smooth. It's as if the shifter "falls" out of gear as if it isn't

My shifter seat was okay but the bushing on the end of the shifter was completely destroyed. I'm wondering if maybe there are small pieces left inside and the new one isn't allowed to sit in there as nicely, causing the pop out? I might throw the old seat in as well, as a test to see if the Marlin Crawler one doesn't have enough "bite" so to speak to keep the shifter in place, though I doubt it.

 

The syncros wont be a factor in popping out of gear, its going to be bearing wear or some other wear that doesnt let the gears fully mesh anymore, but I am not very familiar with the common failures in these transmissions. But I have had a lot of transmissions in various track cars and abused street cars that had the issue and it always ended with me replacing expensive bits or sourcing a new used transmission. I know you want it to be a cheap fix, and I feel ya, but its highly unlikely that you can fix this without opening the trans or replacing it with a good used one.

 

Great pics!
Thank you!

i’m currently replacing mine and when I pulled the shifter my top bushing was completely disintegrated…i removed everything i could near the locking collar and even used some tiny needle nose to pull more out of the reservoir below…

question: since it had completely fallen apart, what about the pieces that fell down into the reservoir below? I got everything i could see, but I’m sure there’s more…do i need to flush transmission now????