Alabama thread!

@ovrlndkull what’s the steering upgrade past the JD fab double shear? Just seems like more stress transferred to the rack from the outers. Wouldn’t/shouldn’t the outers give first? Just daydreaming. I have a couple years to figure all this out haha

 

Tundra rack

 

They have a slide rack that doesn't allow the oe rack to deflect which causes a lot of the failures. It comes with a heim for an inner ans aluminum tie rod. They also have an upgraded pump, quickener, and stuff to help with offroad (quickener not recc onroad)

As far as upgraded racks you have 2 choices an LC200 (would have to make custom mounts) or the tundra rack (I got one from basikbiker). Both of these you'll loose a little turning radius.

The problem is either way you go the system is weak to handle bound up rock crawling stuff. With the JD fab set up you get more strength for hard side load hits and do a little better in the rocks.

Or you could go full send like robertcrister and do full hydro. Me I'm adding hydro assist to my tundra rack (new rear is taking that money) to have a mechanical link and strong steering in the rocks.

 

37s with stock steering sounds like a bad idea haha. I like the idea of a tundra rack with hydro and beefed up tie rods. Don’t think eliminating a mechanical link would be wise for daily driving. How much turning radius is lost? A negligible amount? Is anyone upgrading their front diff? Not sure if that’s possible or if you’d lose ground clearance doing it. I’ve heard the ARB locker strengthens things up in there, but I don’t know much about it.

 

It's actually from my research noticeable for tight quarters like tight trails and parking lots etc. Personally that was a tradeoff I was willing to take. It'll also have the added benefit of not putting the outer CV joints crazy angles locked.

Other than SAS I have not seen or heard of anyone upgrading the front diffs. The only failures I've seen or heard of were of the ADD tube and shaft grenading. This is why I have the FJ tube. The front diffs seem extremely strong for their size. Now they do make a high pinion F9 and D60 IFS diffs that you could could do a lot of custom work and have under there. Depending on the skids you have and how tight to the frame they are you may loose a tiny bit of GC doing something like that. It's like me switching to a 9 in the rear I'm loosing GC but the benefits far outweigh that one downside.

 

Good to know. I think steering would be enough to start with and if I wheeled hard enough to break anything driveline/diff wise assess it then. With bigger tires the bar is already set higher for breaking things right off the bat. I’d like to bump up to 37s to make things easier, not send it harder. I like going slow, calculated in the truck, I save fast adrenaline stuff for the dirtbike haha.

 

I've ran trails fast and slow. All depends on the line and the trail. Like that hill you got your tail light on. I ran it fastish and hard and didn't even so much as get a scratch. I've seen that happen on several occasions running something slow you loose that forward momentum and slide into something. Now 15 at windrock that's a slow methodical trail especially in the ditch you gotta keep that front DS tire turned into the ditch just right to climb through and then the rocks you need to get the right line to get through them.

 

I believe I had more fun on 15 than any trial I have ever drove

 

Between it and some of the trails at Gulches (which are like a bunch of 15s). I like all the crazy angles I got on it was fun looking at the sky and at the same time pretty much sitting on my door panel

 

I vaguely remember you hitting something else fastish and hard and not getting a scratch either but some other problems but I get what you’re saying. I don’t know how hard I can go with the front locker or steering yet before something gives. That would have been a good place to figure it out though.

Which brings back up the idea of building some trails here on our land where I can be close if something breaks and just yank it back with the tractor.

 

Bouncing, full lock and going from no traction to lots of traction is what kills CVs

 

2 hours to go and fuck me the rides rough....

 

Your going to have to join the TN thread now.

 

Anybody around Huntsville or guntersville doing ovtune and tsb updates?

 

Lol gonna pull that off sometime, lil truck made it back fine got a vibration gonna balance tires first. Guy said 4hi worked but 4low didn’t seemed to work fine? Light on low was blinking though

 

Fj case!

 

@cubie whats the plan tomorrow?

 

Any tips on how to remove this electrical clip? I got the TC disconnected from flywheel, all the brackets and plugs disconnected, would have drop the tranny today if it weren’t for this thing lol

 

Take a pocket knife and slide it in from here. Lift up and it will come free.

 

Just cut it. Doesn’t look important.