Sway bar broken weld nut help

Hey all,

I know there have been discussions on this but I think I'm missing some details.

The sway bar connect bolt is a 10mm x 1.25mm according to Google. I need help picking out the correct stainless steel rivet nut to order. Here is the website I've been looking at:

https://www.mcmaster.com/rivet-nuts/stainless-steel-twist-resistant-rivet-nuts/

Can't seem to find the right size, any other suggestions welcome but needs to be stainless steel.

Thank you

EDIT:
Do I need the 1.25 or does something like this work with just 10M?

$19 uxcell® M10 Thread 304 Stainless Steel Rivet Nut Insert Nutsert 20pcs

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Threa...t=&hvlocphy=9033490&hvtargid=pla-334682988434

 

If you've determined it to be a M10x1.25, yes, you need the 1.25. The 1.25 is the thread pitch, the length of the fastener to make one full thread. Not always advisable, but the alternative would be to replace the fastener to match the rivet-nut you can purchase, just make sure you get the same grade of the fastener.

 

Did you have any luck finding a riv nut? Amazon and the internet is proving difficult after two failed attempts.

 

Got a picture of the damage?

 

Why do you have to stay with that size bolt? Find one in American with a nut that will work, you'd likely want a fine pitch thread. Yes it would be nice to stick with the original size but it won't hurt a thing if you go with an alternative either if you can find that. Just use a grade 5 or 8 and not a playground quality steel bolt and nut.

 

IMHO having 1 nut on your truck that isn't metric could be problematic, as you know that will one that needs field adjustment. Mr Murphy told me that.

 

In an effort to keep it the same size, I bought some m8 x1.25 locknuts (you can use a lock washer and nut also) and got it into the frame. I used a magnet to line it up and get it started. Then I went on the backside of the frame(towards the engine bay) and was able to fish a line wrench( you can also fit a box wrench) in there. I lined it up with the magnet and got it started and torqued. It’s a pain to get off but I also have a spacer mount so I can take my sway-bar off separately. Make sure you buy grade 8 and you’ll be fine. It’s a pain but if you don’t want to cut a hole in the frame to weld it on, that’s what you can do. If you take your front bumper off as well, you can use the hole located on the front of the bumper frame mount and use a magnet to line it up.