Stim $$ Spent - Ujoints

Well began the U-joint work this morning after the new joints were delivered. Verified the correct parts were sent.

Decided to begin on the front prop shaft, specifically at the Xfer case. 2 hours later, the first 4 nuts are off. Used PBlaster, MAPP torch, impact wrench and a screwdriver (prevent shaft rotation). Combination of age, rust and gorilla torque. These only need 65 ft-lb.
Took a quick break.
Tried the bolts at the front diff. Access is restricted due to a heavy cross-member. Went straight to the Torch and Impact...... After an hour fudging with the 1st bolt......gave up. Put the Xfer bolts back and torqued to 65 ft-lbs.
Took a short break.
Decide to attempt the rear prop shaft. 1st bolt wouldn't budge......Many words were spoken causing blue air to stream from the garage.......

Now, I'm asking a local shop to take the work using parts supplied by me. The shop is buried and short staffed. He is working up the cost estimate, but earliest possible appointment is next week.

I will never understand why a mechanic needs to be a gorilla when torquing bolts. You know, if 65 ft-lb is specified, then >200 ft-lbs is not needed. My impact isn't a high dollar tool, but it is capable of 230 ft-lb @90 psi. I had it pushed to 100 psi without budging the fasteners.

So, looks like I'll be spending more of the Stim $$ than intended. Now, my speaker upgrade is at risk.

I really hate this type of Fing around................

 

That's gotta be frustrating!! I know what it's like, I'll have all the tools and parts laid out ready to go and have gone over what to do in my head a million times. Then go to start and just getting off bolts takes hours - what a pain. Hope the shop takes care of you for a reasonable price.

 

Have they ever even been changed? Seems like you are just making a weird dig at mechanics when in reality they are probably just rusted on.

 

If it was just rust, then the impact and PB would've removed the nuts without issue.

Someone, somewhere, sometime gorillaed these. Factory, service tech, previous owner...........65 ft-lb is not a big torque. Over 200 ft-lbs applied to overcome 65 ft-lb????? Gimme a break....

 

Get a more powerful impact gun. They’ll either come off or break off. Either way works.

 

Thanks....I'll take your suggestion under advisement.

 

How are you getting an impact on there? I think I’ve tried before and needed an extension and a wobble or universal. Both really knock down the impact force.

 

breaker bar

modern impact gun can make up to ~1,000 lb torque

 

They should come off without issue, yours probably never off before. Use impact with small extension, put in 4wd to hold driveshaft.

 

PB blaster and other penetrants aren't the magic answer most people think they are. Rusty bolts need heat to break the bond between the 2 metals

 

That's simply not true. An impact and PB blaster does not fix everything. I was an automotive machinist for many years, and I saw many bolts that needed more than that. Weird things happen when you combine 2 parts, of slightly different material, a bolt of another different material, then add in things like moisture, rust, road salt, etc etc. Not to mention this is all connected to a frame which is used as a ground, which causes electrolysis and galvanic corrosion. There's a whole lot more going on than "Ugh, dumb mechanic too many ugga duggas." That bolt was probably torqued by a robot on the assembly line.

 

Gentlemen. All the solutions you have suggested were tried. None were successful.

There is a small compounding problem. I can only get the truck onto jack stands. I'm working on my back with a cardboard "crawler"

I appreciate all the tips, but they have been exhausted.

Unfortunately, I'm waiting on the phone for the local shop to reply with a quote and a time for the work. I'm not real hopeful with this shop, but they are close and have a good reputation.

If the local shop turns to a bust, then I'll find another path.

 

Sorry, didn't see you already tried the torch

 

I encountered something similar this week when I changed out the ujoint on a 2005 xterra. Probably the first time this has happed on this car. Impact wouldn't do it and breaker bar was hard to use single handed while holding wrench on the back nut. After I realized I wasn't getting any where with my impacts I called a buddy b/c I just needed an extra hand to hold the other wrench so I could really get some torque on the cheater bar.
That's what did it and they were off in 10 mins.
a breaker bar and extra hand will get it loose.

Edit: this was also done in my driveway on jackstands. Trust me the extra set of hands will get them lose. You can apply more torque with a bar and some strength than any impact you have

 

I'll throw one more suggestion out there... Use the floor jack on the wrench or breaker bar to break the nut loose.

Ok, 2...a torque multiplier with a crows foot box wrench.

Good luck!

 

Kroil is my go to or home brewed Acetone/Transfluid in a 50/50 mix. Hasn't let me down yet.

 

Hmmmm...... didn't think about using the floor jack combined with the breaker bar.

Torque multiplier crossed my mind. Although, at near $300 with a 3" diameter head and a 14" bar.......area is cramped, awkward at best.....holding a the bolt head and torquing on the nut and the multiplier......I'm out of hands.

Well, I'm gonna sit tight. The shop may call. I'll give them today. If no response, then I try again.

 

Like I said in my suggestion, you need a buddy to help. Also if you have a swivel head ratchet and a piece of pipe, it can slide over the ratchet handle if thin enough and act as a cheater bar and also allow you to move the handle to different angles that may allow you to avoid hitting this like the tires or leaf springs to get maximum movement out of the ratchet head.
like this:


Also, while you're waiting on the shop to call, keep spraying down your bolts and nuts with some break free lube. Give it time to soak