Sleipnir's FURD BURD Bigfoot thread: Oh chit we have proof of life!

Spoke with Turbosmart at 2K too and the way the BOV was installed it's fighting the vaccum source. I have a throttle body spacer I will install and use as a source for the BOV. That'll fix the bleeding BOV issue

 

Well I changed my vacuum routing last night. Someone had hooked the wastegates to the boost solenoids that are typically mounted on the turbos for the CRV. Then they had the compressor housings t'd into the front boost solenoid. This is not how the routing or the solenoids work and there was a feed side (compressor housings) feeding into the outlet on the boost solenoid and the exact opposite for the wastegates. They go on the outlet side of the solenoids because it's supposed to pull boost from the hot pipe. Which by the way isn't where the solenoid is pulling from. It's pulling from the intake so I'll need to see if I need to tap the hot pipe so the wastegates have a reliable boost reference.


Truck feels better and I can feel the boost and wastegates better. It's a weird feeling but it's moving the right way now. Next thing to tackle is the BOV and throttle plate. I'll do that all at once when I get my flanges and fittings for the drains.

 

So after speaking with the guys over at full race my vacuum lines area still incorrect. I'm supposed to be using only the passenger bcsv to control the wastegates and that's it.


I'm a little confused on one part of the routing so they said if I was stuck they would get an engineer on the phone to talk with me about it. I want to confirm whether or not I can use the factory bcsv on each turbo to control each wastegate separately. That would give @Boostking more control over the wastegates.


I am also going to need to reset my wastegates and set them properly for the proper psi we want. My only issue is the bcsv on the intake manifold. Do I just let it pull from the intake and vent atmosphericaly and cap the outlet?


I think this is going to make @Boostking life so much easier. We've been fighting that issue for a while now too.

 

So if the front bcsv controls the wastegates then I figured it out and it's all within a few inches of each other. I will take the line from the passenger compressor housing and plug it into as a reference for the bcsv that controls the wastegates now. Then I'll flip that line that goes to the intake as a vent and it'll all be setup properly. The driver's side compressor housing will just be left as is because its not need and can stay on the bcsv that the PCM doesn't see. Cap where you had the passenger compressor housing going to on the other bcsv and tune away

 

So I did some research and the drain on the efr is a 3/8 npt. Meaning it's .3875 inches in diameter. When you put a 3/8 plug in there it shrinks the id and causes poor flow so the boostlab billet flanges will be at a minimum .45 inches because that's the id of a -10an fitting. That goes too a -10an .45 inches fitting and to a .500 id PTFE hose and back to two -10an fittings on the hose and the block. That should make my draining size non-existent and now it's a matter of getting the hose at the right downward angle where it won't pool and back up

 

Picked this up from Amazon and should be here Thursday. I noticed that the driver's side drain (the one with the 90* bend) does that have any heat protection so this will help a lot. I'm thinking the manifold may be cooking the oil as it drains too.

Design Engineering 010457 Heat Shroud - Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure), 0.5" - .75" x 3'

$33 Design Engineering 010457 Heat Shroud 1/2" - 3/4" I.D. x 3ft Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Hi-Temp Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure)

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engin...ABE2D9XZ1EBB01522&refRID=W43ABE2D9XZ1EBB01522

 

Last thing to order and I'm all done with everything I need to get up and going with 0 questions. Going to sell my TialQ as it's too large to fit where I want it. I ordered a Turbosmart Raceport and will plumb it off the throttle body spacer. Another thing that was going through my head was that running the recirculation valves and an external BOV is just a turbosmart dual port. So I ordered a set of Turbosmart Kompact Plum Backs which will replace the Turbosmart bop I have now. This will allow me to run over 30psi comfortably while still having an external BOV. I will plum these off the throttle body spacer too just how Full Race says to do it in their install instructions. I would have ordered the stock the EFR recirculation valves but I wanted the Full Race billet covers and the stiffer spring. It would have cost the same price as the kompacts and I trust a piston over a diaphragm when pushing big boost.

 

Well chipped away at more work on the truck. Updated the vacuum lines setup to how it should be, pending Full Race's response. Installed the throttle body spacer and hooked the external BOV to it. Will hook up the crvs to the throttle body spacer too and should work. Full Race says the bcsv on the turbos are used to control the crvs but I'm wondering if I can run them right on the throttle body spacer because I do think @Boostking can control those a anyway.

 

Ok the more I think about it the more I want to clock the passenger turbo to 0*. I need to pop out the chra because the middle bolt for the wastegate bracket has the coolant line fitting on the center section in the way. I need to literally take the whole thing out to take the fitting out to take the bracket off but at least we know it'll be right and I can change the drain flanges while it's out

 

These things are super nice! .675 at the flange side opening and .500 at the an side. I need to maintain a minimum of .375 throughout the whole oil drain. My smallest is .450

 

Oh yeah. I have some envy right now, after dealing with one that I just installed.

 

So I saw! Those welds though are pretty hawt

 

Well little progress every day. Got the vacuum lines for the Turbosmart kompacts (which should be here tomorrow cause Full Race is amazing), vacuum cap to plug where the bov was and automotive Ts to fix the wastegate setup. The original one broke and the white T was only a temporary fix.


My 50mm flange intercooler elbow will be here Saturday and the Turbosmart Raceport Gen V will be here Sunday. After I reclock the turbo, install the bigger drain flanges, change the fittings and adjust the wastegate bracket, the truck should be mechanically sound. Then it's a matter of testing. Just clocking the turbo from 20* to 10* made considerable less smoke and only started smoking after running with a 392 Scat Pack a few times. He owned me at the top but when there turbos spool it's neck and neck



Before




After

 

I also ordered a UPR -10an billet valve cover fitting and reusing the -10an 90* from the drains. It just makes sense to do it right and shorten the rest of the lines too.

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-plu...over-fitting-to-an-mustang-f150-sho-explorer/

 

Leaving gremlins less places to hide, I like it.

 

That's the idea

 

Also added heat sheilding and made sure the drain line was free and out of the way. Dont worry, that line is already covered up top too.

 

Well got the driver's side oil drain flange on. The hose came off the fitting last night and didn't notice it until this morning. Luckily I caught it before starting the truck. Got that fixed but my dumbass cross threaded the fitting so I'll need to order another one to replace it. Shouldn't be too bad. Since I didn't do passenger yet because I'm saving it for tomorrow when I'm clocking the turbo, I took some measurements of the old vs new flange.


You can definitely see that the drain off the turbo will have plenty of room and the boostlab -10an side is larger than the old one. It's also over a 1/4" shorter too.

 

Well I did today with what I was going to do Saturday reclocked the turbo, adjusted the wastegate bracket and installed the oil drain flanges and the Turbosmart kompacts plumb backs. Disassembly went by fast but when I got to the wastegate bracket 2/3 screws were stripped. Managed to drill them out then use a hammer and screw driver to knock them loose. Got it all back together and it doesn't run nearly as loud now! Idle is much smoother doesn't sound like it's gonna take off.



Took it for a drive and I think @Boostking is going to be one happy tuner now. All boost surge is gone and with the kompacts in-between shifts are not as hard and it holds the boost there. I think we done did something good here boys. Will need to change the driver's drain from a PTFE fitting to a standard flex hose an fitting. Thought these lines were PTFE since my invoices say it but guess not. Still smoking after the drive but after me throwing that chra around a little today I wouldn't be surprised that it did smoke some right now.