1st gen 18” bypasses

Cool. Didn't seem like they were what you initially wanted based on one of your posts. Will not look as clean - but like you said it's not a big deal.

Here's a truck with 18's

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ong-travel-supercharged-fully-prepped.295008/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/alexs-long-travel-build.100653/

 

This is where 16's sit. from the side the tubing (1.75") sits just above the bedline. Relatively stealthy/low profile. You would be looking at at least 2" higher then that depending on how you mount/measure. Mounted on the axle about a 11 o'clock position off the rear.

 

I am not bypass but here is my set up with 18s
I will get some pictures soon and a detailed list of what i have.
I am using 18" shocks st8 up and down, with E30 springs and a tundra axle on my 1st Gen. Strapped/bumped at 17.25" to save last bit of my shocks. I am probably about 2/3" above the bed, however my shocks are mounted inside more then most i've seen.
From what i understand if i redid the whole way the shocks are mounted i could get more travel, however i'm happy where i'ma at.

 

How much wider is the Tundra axle?

 

Good info, been trying to figure out the best way to mount my shocks.

3.5 per side I believe.

 

@TanTaco98
I recommend taking your time and cycle everything multiple times. I know a lot of people say that but few take the time to do it. Cycle the leafs first and take the time to make some lower shock mounts that are low and forward of the axle housing but have enough clearance for the seal head, resi & bypass tubes @ full bump. That will drastically lower your upper eyelet mount.
For example, I can run a tonneau cover because my whole cage sits below the bed line even with 18's.

 

How far Away from the seal do I wanna set my bumps at? “.5? Also your pic didn’t upload.

 

Pic should be there now. Thank you.

The max would depend on the center line of your bump vs center line of the shock. If your shock and bump mount to the axle housing on the same perpendicular line you can keep that distance relatively small 3/8"-1/2" to allow for material flex and distortion.
If your bump is inboard of the shock it may need to be more. Cycle full bump and max articulated to make sure. For example if your bump hits inward of the shock the bump may act as a fulcrum and @ articulation can cause you to bottom out metal to metal on the shock.
Similar to if you have your bump outboard of the shock, the shock can act like a fulcrum @ full bottom and leverage the axle higher into the bump stop.

 

Those are 18s in your photo?? Also I’m confused what you mean by inboard and outboard of the the shock.

 

Yes sir, 18" Travel 2.5" Triple Bypasses.
In & Out refers to the orientation of the shock center line vs the bump stop striker location.
Here is an example of the bump stop & shock mounted on the same perpendicular line to the axle housing. (Icon SKU : 95120)
The yellow area is where the factory bump stop is located, our 95120 bump kit on Raptors move the bump out the match the shock centerline


In terms of Tacoma's w/ hydo bumps
In = Inboard of the shock. ie. When the bumps can is welded directly to the frame rail on vehicles that have the factory shock mount outside the frame like 05+ Tacoma's
Out = Outboard of the shock. ie. Bumps cans that welded directly to the frame rail on vehicles that have the factory shock mount inside the frame like 96-04 Tacoma's

 

Those mounts are snazzy.

 

Awesome makes sense now. What is your shock angle?

 

just stumbled upon this thread. really good stuff here for where i'm at in my build.