60,000 mile service -- do's and don't's

With the pandemic coming under control, I'm anticipating more travel and road trips in the months ahead and want my truck in top shape for this travel surge. Other than some shuddering / pulsing in hard braking (warped rotors?), my truck seems to be in good shape.

My 2017 Sport (AT, DCLB) is going into a trusted (fair prices, won't do unneeded repairs / maintenance, quality work) local shop for maintenance. I have had, or needed, very limited maintenance since the initial purchase, just the usual Toyota Care stuff, oil changes, etc., and this is the first time this particular vehicle of mine has visited Tony's shop (#1 Japanese Auto Repair in Seattle).

Beyond replacing the plugs, air filter, cabin air filter, oil & filter change, I'm wondering whether to have all of the main fluids / lubricants replaced, rather than "inspected" as called for in the manual. None of these fluids / lubricants have been replaced yet.

I would appreciate any input on what you would do for the maintenance of your truck under similar circumstances. Once upon a time, I might have done some of this work myself; but my 71 year old body doesn't contort itself as much as it once did and I'm happy to leave this work to the experts.

Thanks.

 

3rd Gen DIY maintenance quick reference | Tacoma World

Some info here might help, also maybe brake fluid flush / throttle body cleaning? might not be needed but definitely won't hurt for a proactive up keep.

Some differ from driver to driver / trailer - camper hauling / off roading etc.

 

First, I must commend you for taking care of your vehicle and just as important, being watchful of WHO is performing these important and necessary tasks. Most don’t, they just take it somewhere and then come here and complain, good for you.

As far as fluids, check all that apply except the ATF A/T level unless there is a visible leak (not likely).
I would check the coolant level (when cold) check brake fluid level, and if near the min-add line, you may need to replace the front brake pads. Lube propeller shaft U-joints where applicable, and replace all differential\transfer case fluids.

Additionally, even though not mention in the OM, I recommend replacing the PCV valve, every 30k miles, inspect serpentine belt and check pulley(s) and bearings for any noises and replace as necessary if any.
As for the belt, me personally feel more comfortable replacing it every five years as rubber may start to decade in areas not readily visible, and is something that can leave you stranded.

I maybe forgetting something, but I trust others here will chime in. And less I forget, check the air in that spare

Good luck

 

Following...
About to do my 60,000 service (96000kms).
Wondering weather I should buy all the fluids myself and take it to a garage, or just pay the extra cost to have it done at the dealer...thoughts?

 

I would buy my own fluids, less chance they may mix it up or got the wrong oil in their 55gal drum or tank. Also I find it's best to just keep using the same brand\type of lube.

 

It depends on how particular you are about following Toyota specifications.

These can all be easily found in section 9.1 of your owners manual. Reading here on the forum seems to indicate that having the dealer perform the service DOES NOT assure you of the specified products being used -- you will however probably pay more than at an independent shop.

Examples:
The axles call for 75W-85 gear oil, not uncommon but not often stocked, most places will put in common

$30 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90.

The transfer case calls for 75W gear oil, not very common, the Toyota branded product costs $60-$80 for quart, again most places will put in common 75W-90.

If you have a manual transmission it calls for 75W-90 gear oil -- but in a GL-4 grade verses more common GL-5.

Be warned -- the "what oil" discussion that may well follow. I encourage you to research these products yourself to determine IF following Toyota specifications is important to you or alternately "close is good enough".

If you would like my personal viewpoint on the above products feel free to PM me.

 

So I just brought my vehicle in to the dealer... I really should have shown up with my own plugs at least!
My quote says plugs are 34.97 each, then the “air surge gasket” whatever that is... and labour of $419.85... for a total of $669.74 just for the plugs!(3.5 hours labour for plugs?!)
Other parts and labour charges...
Brake fluid: $155.93
Fuel induction service:
$169.98
Front diff $74.97
Rear diff $74.97
Transfer case $83.97
Alignment $139.95
Oil and filter $115.00
Looking at over $1800.00 dollars for a truck that is running perfectly! Sigh
I have the truck in there for the frame spray warranty work, so I figured I may as well get the 96k (60000 mile) service done, but man... dealership is expensive!
Keep in mind i am in Canada, but still...
Anyone else care to share their cost for this service package?

 

Whoa! That's crazy expensive but right on par for a dealership

They quoted you that much plug labor because they bid the job removing the intake manifold, but any good wrench will be able to get em changed without removing the plenum in about an hour. I'd imagine the "air surge gasket" is the intake manifold gasket. This is everyone's reality when you don't do your own maintenance and elect to have the dealer perform - it isn't cheap.

 

DAMN! Sorry, can't like that post...

Try an independent shop with a good reputation.

 

Will i be able to tell by looking at the manifold if they actually removed it or not?

 

Put a little nail polish on the head of a bolt u know they have to take off to remove the plenum

 

I did my plugs without bothering to look up any instructions and even with my removing unnecessary stuff it only tool me 1.5 hours.

 

@tombiosis is paying in Canuckistan pesos... even then $115.00 is high for oil & filter, esp. with all the other work done on the truck.

 

Here's the post-service report on my 60K mile service at #1 Japanese Auto in Seattle:

• 60,000 mile maintenance service, including
• Air, cabin air filters
• oil filter and oil change
• transmission fluid (at my request)
• differential fluid (at my request)
• transfer case fluid (at my request)
• coolant (at my request)
• spark plugs
• front brake service including new pads and rotors (this item subtotaled at $382.48; not part of the 60K service)

The total price was $1576.62 (incl. $146.59 in sales tax). Of course, I understand that if I did this work myself, the cost would have been much lower. And, no, I don't know which fluids were used, although Tony (shop owner) would tell me if I asked. I used my stimulus payments to pay for this work.

So, that's how it wrapped up. Truck runs great. Brakes no longer shudder and stop the truck evenly. I'm happy. Although it pained me to write a check that large.

 

Too late... truck is already there. I did ask for my used plugs back though, and a pic of any filings on the diff plugs. I know they will probably say they forgot or whatever...

 

Big chunk of change yes.
Trucks are expensive, I like to protect my investments.
You are good for another reliable 60,000 miles too.

 

So I do much of my own maint on my rig, the items in bold I do myself and the schedules have changed since I use amsoil for all of it. The brake fluid is yet to be done but have all the material and tools to do it. I have yet to do the fuel injection service but I will one day.

 

Just follow the manual.

One thing that people don't take into account, but performing work on equipment introduces risk as not doing it.

 

Maybe I am in the minority here, and that is fine, but I don't think that is that terrible. $1,576 seems high, of course, at face value, but as you mentioned that includes tax. If you subtract the cost of the brake service -- which is separate and necessary -- you are really close to $1,000 for all of those larger and difficult to do fluid changes.

Yes, I understand you can do all of that as a DIY and save some money but if I had a good shop that I trusted I would definitely pay $1,000 to have all of that work done. I would need to factor in and price how much all of those fluids were -- and that would be interesting to know.

Peace of mind if done right ... and over the 10 to 15 year ownership of the vehicle well worth it. But that is just me ... I do get -- and have respect for -- the DIY position as well.

 

My distrust of dealerships comes from real experiences. I would personally not ask them to do any non-required maintenance because there is a chance they would skip over it and charge you for it anyway.

That said, I should also say my experience with Toyota service departments has been far better than others.