RSI Smart Cap

I can't wait to see it on the truck - I had a smug-top before and absolutely HATED how the sides folded over the truck rails. Looked so bad and actually welcome how this one seems to fit on top of the rails and a bit away from the edges.

 

Well there you go, horses for courses as they say.. I like everything about them but that and the window proportions on the long bed version.. I need to go see on in person.. maybe it’s not an issue irl.

 

Eh, I think you contributed plenty. Far from the worst offending shitposts I've seen in my short time on TW, let alone other forums. Plus you're not the only one that share's those sentiments. I've seen those concerns listed several times over.

I see what you mean now, and I think width-wise it looks pretty good. As far as the tailgate, I can see people's arguments for making it a hair longer but I'm of the opinion that it's a good length in case you don't want the camper butted right up against the cab. My dad's tonneau scraped the hell out of the paint on his cab so I prefer a little safety space there.

Yeah, I thought of saw horses a little too late. I ended up agitating a hamstring that I pulled several times in college. It's still bugging me half a week later. Nothing that the TENS can't fix.

 

Well had our first rain storm and this thing leaks like a sieve around the windows. I’ll definitely be filing a warranty claim. The window gaskets are not thick enough. Not sure if it’s something that can be fixed or not. Between the positive pressure vent leaking in car washes, latches holding water/freezing in winter and locks corroding alarmingly fast, the windows leaking in a regular shower and the wiring harness wired backwards. I’m beginning to question the price tag on the thing. Great in South Africa maybe, but they should probably have done more research for North America. My next concern is rust. Magnets obviously stick to it so I’m not sure what grade of stainless that is. If I were to do it again I’d maybe have held off for the next generation. At least this one has a warranty for 3 years and the issues are things that can be replaced.

 

Hey there!
New to the site but finding some great info here.
I wanted to share my recently installed RSI EVO A on a DCLB.
For full disclosure, I’ve got Bilsteins up front on the top clip(only got 1” of lift for some reason but asked about that in another thread) and an Icon 1.5” AAL in the rear.

Overall, I’m very happy with the cap.
It had a couple minor issues to note.
It had a bent inner lip on a side panel(no biggie just rubber mallet and blocked it back) and there is a slight dry spot in the paint that’s only noticeable in the right light/angle.

My opinion is that the DCLB cap looks much better in “real life” than in pictures. The doors don’t look off at all.
I was quoted $3200-$3700 for a similar Leer so to me $3500 no tax/free shipping was a no brainer.

Here are a couple pics in the dirt and a couple on the street.

 

i see people haven’t been impressed with the “gap” but I don’t see it on yours, looks like a great fit!
I ordered one a few days ago, hopefully I get a shipping confirmation soon!

 

Yeah, I’ve got less than a fingers width at the cab and the rear sits perfect on the tailgate now IMO.

 

I spent a full day getting the two sides in. I went to put on the back panel and realized side panels had to be close in. I'm talking NO GAP. Major pain in the butt stuff. There is a thin board that went around the top, cut 6" section of that (avoid the nails), and it fits nicely into that "U" on the top panel. I have a square-headed mallet that I use to tap the roof while holding side panels with your legs. The real fun starts with those side clips (should pop into place with a little wiggling of the panels.

I got the back on with some effort, lots of wiggling things around, more tapping, more wiggle, more "you gotta be kidding me." It's getting there.

My daughter and her boyfriend came over to help with side clips (1 to 4 against the roof, #5 and #6 (right corner, left corner) are a pain. Finally, No sooner do I button one side than that opposite corner clip popped out of place.

My glutes, calves, hamstrings are on fire. Challenge is moving around and holding while wiggling things. Four legs, four hand job. I'm solo so taking me much longer, but I have kids show up to assist when I need it.

It's getting there.

@Highline Looks fantastic. I'm thinking "just enough room for a wash both windows but like your gap.

@bergj Where did you get the correct harness?

 

Anyone here have issues with keys being PITA to get into the locks and the locks themselves showing corrosion almost immediately? I have to jiggle the keys quite a bit and work them into the locks. Not happy about that for the pricetag.

 

Offroad Alliance submitted my warranty claim direct with RSI and I had the new harness in five days from submitting my case with them.

 

We are about 1 month in on the RSI (2 company trucks) and so far have experienced most of the good and bad that others have posted on here. Could it be better, definitely. Could it be worse, without question. I see a little water intrusion around one window and had to do a few retightens on some of the bolts as well. We run a Decked system so most of the gear is inside the boxes and the few drops of water I see after a rain has not really been an issue for me. That ice storm that came through the South a few weeks ago definitely froze the locks shut so that was a bummer! We need to get a file claimed to get the wiring harness corrected as we didn't get the right harness like most others. Install was not for the faint of heart but ultimately we got them dialed in and would recommend folks take a look at them!

 

im just a lurker(thinking about purchasing) but what I have gathered is they will send you updated rubber gasket for windows, but you still have to use something to seal gasket to window frame.. think they include that as well.

does seem strange though that they didn’t send you correct seals on a new cap?

also everything I read on every forum talks about how they fubared the wiring harness, seems weird they can’t get that right.

even on Ford site people complaining of leaking windows and wrong wiring harness.

I thought it fit f150 bed better but looks like Tacoma figment there as well.

sucks about the locks as well, I’ve read some concerns about condensation and rusting as they used 409 stainless... hmmmm

 

So after hearing a couple people complain about it leaking I stuck my 13y/o daughter in the bed and went to town with the hose on "shower". I put more water on it than I will likely ever see in a really bad rainstorm.

At first we had a leak at the rear pass-through window. Figured out we didn't have the window closed all the way.

Sprayed all the sides, back, top, etc. Moved the truck so it went from nose down to nose up to test the vent too. I can say that we had no water intrusion or leaking anywhere on the shell.

The only spot I had that leaked were the plugs I put in the front corners of the bed (tonneau bed plugs). There was a more water leaking through this area then I would have hoped for but this is the bed issue and not the shell issue. Now I'm going to prop up the front of the shell and actually seal up the corners.

My advice? Save the money on buying the bed plugs and just seal these up with some foam or RTV.

 

Has anyone slept in the 6 foot bed smartcap yet? Any user reviews on how well this works for truck camping in the bed?

 

Need to keep an opening cracked open, unless you install a push/pull fan to keep the condensation from building. You will ALWAYS battle condensation if there is no airflow or vent

 

Best fix for the brake light wiring issue other than complaining to the vendor for a fix.... go to pick-n-pull and swipe (purchase) two Toyota pins (male/female). Any Toyota... solder a piece of wire to extend them and install the jumper.... boom! Issue fixed! Cap brake light works and the dual filament light bike on the yota works properly.

* pro tip: to take the plug caps off, use a hook tool or similar.... hook the white cap inside the plug and pull.... the white cover on the male pins can be removed with pliers. To “de-pin” get a tiny and long flat head to gently pull up on the latch holding the pins in.... YouTube it...

 

I'm considering getting this for my OR AC that's coming in this week. One of the main things I want is to be able to put my Roofnest on it so I have some questions about crossbars

1. What systems are compatible? I've seen the stock RSI load bars, Front Runner (looks like KRCA007 as bar set or FASS012 mounting feet), and Rhino-Rack RLT600 feet. Are there others, e.g. from Thule or Yakima that would work?
2. What is the maximum width of the bars (without hitting the flip-up windows)? I had my tent on 58" bars on my Subaru so the 45" bars sound small. My tent even calls for at least 48" bars
3. What is the length of the side windows? With a long bed I might be able to space the bars to the front/back of them.

 

The rails take m8 square weld nuts according to another forum. I haven't got mine in yet to test. I'm in the process of making my own rack so I'll know probably within a month if that works.

$6 A2 Stainless Steel Square Weld Nuts DIN 928 M8-5 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBF561/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_DCJQZ15VWFYYDF5WPTHJ?_encoding=UTF8

 

Just had our first spring thunderstorm. The rain never got terribly heavy, but I would say moderate rainfall. Anyways, it looks like there are two areas of ingress on my cap - the first is in the front corners where I put no effort into closing up the gaps, the second is through a bolt in the roof panel. If I am looking at this correctly, this bolt comes through the roof rack rail, then down through the top to be a stud for the side panels before the washer and nyloc nut are used. Has anyone else seen any leaks coming from here?.

 

What does everyone else’s bed rails look like after tightening down the clamp bolts?

I put the rubber spacers between the bed rail and the cap in each clamp location and only torqued to 70 in lbs for now (calls for 108 in lbs).

My cap rails are visibly bowing on the first two clamps closes to cab. This appears to be because of the curve of the bed. The front most clamp bolt is farthest to the right of it’s hole and thus pulling down more of the metal and the middle clamp bolt is doing something similar. The rear most clamp bolt is farthest to the left of it’s hole and doesn’t appear to be bowing the metal at all.