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Rear door speakers

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by watersoilair, May 9, 2018.

  1. May 9, 2018 at 7:58 AM
    #1
    watersoilair

    watersoilair [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hi all. Realized that there's virtually nothing coming out of the rear speakers...not impressed. Would installing new ones do the trick or is there just not enough power going back there???

    Would appreciate a link to a thread that covers any diy speaker swap out on the 2018. Couldn't find a thread. Cheers!
     
    ORtoCOTaco likes this.
  2. May 9, 2018 at 8:03 AM
    #2
    beers@1600

    beers@1600 Well-Known Member

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  3. May 9, 2018 at 8:09 AM
    #3
    gitacotrd

    gitacotrd Well-Known Member

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    I spent 80 on Subaru tweets and 120 on fosgate door drivers and like 15-20 on adapters for the doors. Like it was said ~250 and its night and day difference in sound. I have since added the ********* rear sub (10 inch 1000w) and I am ~900 into one of the better low key systems I have done.
     
    watersoilair[OP] likes this.
  4. May 9, 2018 at 10:03 AM
    #4
    Flyinbrianbmx

    Flyinbrianbmx Well-Known Member

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    watersoilair[OP] likes this.
  5. May 9, 2018 at 12:21 PM
    #5
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    By direct from Kicker they have the best deals even better than A-zon and they guarantee everything and will send you the correct adapters.

    I just swapped mine out the other day.

    Suggest door speaker swaps BEFORE the tweets.

    The Subbie tweets are full range and are a bit much for me. They are better than stock because the Tacoma tweeters have a passive crossover that doesn't let much of any range thru to the speaker. The Subbie tweets are full range. I ended up now having to put the balance almost all the way to the rear cause the Subbie tweets are too loud for me.

    I have sensitive hearing and I'm an audiophile so there's that.

    Hint on door panel removal... its pretty easy first 1 takes 15 minutes the rest take under 5 minutes.

    Hint/trick - pop the door arm panel with the window/lock switches off first and unplug the 2 white connectors that way instead of taking the door panel off and trying to do it that way. Thank me later.. you will need a plastic pry tool to pop the panel off.

    Same with the rear doors only they have just 1 wire clip to disconnect.

    Hint #2 - the panel behind the outside rear view mirror - pop that off with the same tool you used on the door arm panel. You will see white clips left in the door. Squeeze those white clips together and remove from the door and install them on the covers BEFORE you try and re-install the covers. Trust me and again thank me later.

    Same thing with the back door - there's 2 covers that come off first and they also have those same white clips.

    IF you leave the white clips in place and try and install the covers with them in the door. The clips will push into the door and bye bye... they don't fall down to the btm of the door and are now un-obtainium. You wont be able to get to them and your door trim wont attach = you're fucked.

    Other than those 2 things, its very easy. 2 screws and pull the door panels.

    On the door panels - front door pull from the btm at the back of the door.
    Rear door pull the door panel at the btm closest to the front of the truck.

    This saves you an hour prolly on remove and install.

    10mm on an battery driver is all you need to remove and install the new speakers. Be sure and get the speakers with the correct connector or again you will be fucked.
    Kicker has everything you need there.... and speakers ranging from decent to expensive.

    You likely won't need a sub. I get plenty of bass now.

    I'm going to look into the high pass passive crossover on the stock tweeters - it's just a single capacitor but I want to change it so it lets more high pass thru. The way its set up now it only lets thru to the tweeter anything above about 14Khz.. most folks older than 25 cant even hear that high a frequency and why a lot of people complained about the tweeter sucking .. which if you cant hear them whats the point.

    The Subbie tweets are great but now they are over whelming the rest of the system.. again for ME.

    HTH
     
    goose443 and watersoilair[OP] like this.
  6. May 29, 2018 at 5:57 AM
    #6
    watersoilair

    watersoilair [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow, thank you so much for these details. I didn't get a notification to any responses on here.

    I too am an audiofile and have sensitive ears. I will surely be swapping the speakers out.
     
  7. May 29, 2018 at 9:52 AM
    #7
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    I would do the door speakers first. Anything is better than whats in there for sure. Check out Kicker they have everything you need in 1 box to fit fronts and rears including brackets. Pretty easy and not expensive mod. They also offer some decent upgrade speakers.

    Right now I have the Subie tweets and I had to adjust the balance to be almost all to the rear speakers. Which sucks really. So I will mod the stock tweets with a different crossover cap and see if that doesn't help. The stock tweeter isn't bad compared to the door speakers. It's actually heavier than the door speakers and it's pretty small. Just there's no sound coming out of the stock tweeter the way its setup from the factory.

    I threw the door speakers in the trash.. I usually hold on to spare parts almost always. Those speakers didn't last 15 minutes after my test drive with new installed. Thats how crappy they are... there's no words to describe other than they are shit speakers.
     
    shakerhood likes this.
  8. May 29, 2018 at 10:43 AM
    #8
    Technique

    Technique Well-Known Member

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    I went with some Infinity reference speakers for the front+rear speakers and I'm pretty happy with them for the price I paid. I got them on sale for like $150 total. I then added the Subaru tweets to finish it off and they hit the highs much better. After I got all the stock speakers replaced, I added an Image Dynamics IDQ10 V.4 sub to get some thump goin. Pretty happy with my system!
     
  9. May 29, 2018 at 10:46 AM
    #9
    bobrown14

    bobrown14 Well-Known Member

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    The Subie tweets are full range or real close - the highs are in my face too loud.
     
  10. Mar 27, 2021 at 8:51 AM
    #10
    CoronaTaco

    CoronaTaco My original 1991 Toyota Pickup Truck!

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    well. I lost two of those white clips damnit. should I open the the door? or just buy new ones. lol
     
  11. Mar 27, 2021 at 2:16 PM
    #11
    GOTSAND?18

    GOTSAND?18 Well-Known Member

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    Replacing just the rear speakers will do nothing but make a bigger hole in your pocket . U need to run a 4 channel amplifier and run them off that .
     
    Jaredius likes this.
  12. Mar 27, 2021 at 3:11 PM
    #12
    CoronaTaco

    CoronaTaco My original 1991 Toyota Pickup Truck!

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    You are 100% right! I just couldn’t take it anymore. I spliced into my factory crap speakers and powered it with a alpine amp! it’s not as crispy as kicker but it’s not horrible and handles the 50watts no problem. sorry
    I dont have a professional bench. I also did half stock and half kicker balance test and the stock actually has more bass!!

    image.jpg
     
  13. Mar 27, 2021 at 3:12 PM
    #13
    CoronaTaco

    CoronaTaco My original 1991 Toyota Pickup Truck!

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