What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I've never chewed up the D bushing that badly but they don't last a year for me. I tried putting a Tbar clamp on one side to hopefully help minimize the side to side. Not sure if it helped or not. The long bolt sleeve near the differential is cracked the whole way around the welds on my truck. I'm sure that doesn't help things either.

Been considering solid mounting it but kind of worried the energy will just go into bending tie rods.

 

Same here man. It sucks

 

I do have an OME Lift with 882s and Dakars.
Are the steering bushings something I need to keep a watch on?
I don't plan to wheel hard core.

 

You don't have to 'wheel hard core'.

Check for slop in the steering rack, if there is excessive play then replace them. If you've invested the money and time into a suspension lift, then do it right. You'll definitely notice a difference.

 

Copy that, and Thanks.
My truck has never been wheeled previously, so I'm green to the scene.
But I'm learning a lot, from those who share like yourself!!
Currently, everything is pretty tight on my rig.

 

With the sleeve broken at the welds like that, does your rack make any odd noises when turning on flat ground stationary?
Mine sort of creaks and pops and i'm wondering if I might have the same sort of thing.

 

Can't find them on the actual Icon website but I see these: https://www.metaltech4x4.com/icon-shock-wraps-neoprene-coil-over-shock-protection-covers-small/

 

This looks clean

 

I was wondering if you had the CS144 too since I have it and it gets around 14.3 usually. Maybe the CS144 with a diode is the easiest solution if you already have the big 3 upgrade and CS144.

I am at around the same too, 14.3 when it's running normal.

I thought that was more of a second gen thing but it seems like I would benefit from it too, especially since I want to go duals and have no interest in fucking with solar.

 

Didn’t someone sell a big 3 kit? I need to do that as well.

 

I bamatoy used to, but it's easy enough to make yourself. Welding cable, some lugs and a lug crimper and it's easy. It's actually like a big 5 upgrade because there are more than just 3. I need to look back at what it was though.

 

Not that I'm aware of. There a nice fine rusty crack line around the weld though. Pretty easy to see.

 

Went Skinny!
I've been running 32s ever since I first lifted this truck 16 or so years ago.
My Cooper STTs had run their course and after reading that Expeditions West article by Scott Brady, I decided to go with skinnies.
All I can say is... WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I love the way it rides.

But what's interesting is this...
I had to take her out on the road to see the effect of these tires on actual (Waze GPS) vs indicated speed (speedometer). These are the results:

Indicated 20mph = Actual 20mph
I 30mph = A 30mph
I 40mph = A 40.5mph
I 50mph = A 51mph
I 60mph = A 61mph
I 70mph = A 71mph

 

I feel a bit ridiculous trying to explain this stuff to a bunch of dudes who know more about it than I do

One of life’s lessons, sometimes it’s better to listen than speak- all info is appreciated

 

No reason to feel that way. All info and experiences are good and worth sharing.

 

Replaced the gasket around the transfer case shifter. I should have done it when I bought the truck.

 

After replacing mine and having it leaf again later down the line, I ended up just using silicone as a gasket between the two.

 

Don't feel that way at all. Even though I have both that alternator and an AGM battery, I am not really sure if the AGM is achieving it's full charge, especially with how little I drive it. I always figured 14+ was enough but it seems like I was incorrect there too. Half the shit I do I learned from youtube or make up as I go along so I'm flying by the seat of my pants man.

All of this ^

 

While it's true an AGM likes higher voltage charging. The amount of "under charge" (1st gen/CS144) is minimal and inconsequential in the real world.

This from Northstar.

Will there be a list of vehicles that we do not want to sell product into because of their alternators?
No, the number of vehicles and systems that exist today would make it difficult to identify, manage and update a list on a regular basis. So instead we have set the charging parameters of between 14.1 volts and 14.8 volts as an acceptable charging range. So long as the battery charging remains within these tolerances the battery will perform to its engineered specifications. It is recommended that for every application the customer test the charging voltage to ensure it is within the acceptable limits.

 

Replaced my shifter bushing finally, every gear could move around like neutral