Any suggestions on getting these JIS screws out?

I'm trying to take off the driver's side grab handle trim and the two JIS screws holding the handle in place is giving me trouble.

I bought some JIS screwdriver from Amazon and tried it on the screws. It turned probably half a turn and it looks like it stripped the screw. Any suggestions on getting this off?

I think I uploaded an image of what I'm dealing with. I have the pre 2001 model so the screw isn't a 10mm bolt.

 

Go get an ez out

 

I used an impact punch with a hammer,
These screws depending on the year have a glue type substance that locks them in place

 

flathead screwdriver, ez out, or the right screwdriver with a rubber band over the bit.. or if you have a dremel with a cutoff bit, you can cut a slot in it to use a flathead as well...

 

Manual impact driver: Put some valve grinding compound on the tip for extra traction:

$6 Permatex 80037 Valve Grinding Compound, 3 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80037-Valve-Grinding-Compound/dp/B000HBM80M/

 

I'd drill the head off.

 

I'll try that after the flathead and the rubber band suggestion.

Basically I drill out the head with a large enough bit and then twist the rest of the screw out?

 

Once the head is gone then the handle will come off and you can grab what is left of the screw with some vise grips. You will need a replacement screw so make it a last resort.
If you have small needle nose vice grips you might even be able to grab the head of the screw and turn it enough to break it loose. Then a small flat head will be able to grab the bottom where it isn't stripped.

 

Those have loctite on them. Like others suggested, you really have to use a manual impact screwdriver with a JIS bit. I did the same as you and had to drill it out.

 

They are factory loctited in heavily, vice grips didn't work for me. break the head off, remove the trim and use the double nut method to remove the remaining stud piece.

 

Hard to explain.
I'll use a 3/16" dull drill bit first. The idea is to create friction (heat) to break down the thread adhesive.
Don't focus on trying to get the drill bit to cut metal. What you want to create is heat.
Then use a 3/16" reverse drill bit (in it's intended cutting direction). With any luck, this method will back out the screw.
If the above does not work, center punch what's left of the screw shank, and this time use a 1/8" or 3/32" reverse drill bit.

There have been a lot of methods of removal mentioned. Use what makes sense for the situation.
More is better.

 

If all you want is heat then just hold a soldering iron to it.

 

Impact gun with a Phillips head made short work of that. It’s loctited so yeah heat helps.

 

This happened to me. The easiest way to get it out is drilling it out and using a bolt extractor.

I used this one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133608540327

 

^This. The tool you'll be glad to have...

JIS screws should have a mark in the head like one dot IIRC. You can use a JIS on a Philips but not the other way around, but the obvious choice is to use the right tool from the start.

 

Vessel Impacta crosshead (JIS) screwdriver. The turn-on-impact and optimized fit (to what’s left!) would likely make short work of those screws.

 

Dremel a deep cut across the head. Use a fat, stout flathead screwdriver to back it out.

 

Helpful instructions [based on input from people who have actually done it] can be found at Pages 3 & 4 at https://spikerengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Manual-UG.pdf [copyright @SpikerEng While you are there take a look at his wonderful products at https://spikerengineering.com/ ! ] The PDF includes a link to a Timmy the Toolman video that will be helpful.

Every Toyota "crosshead" screw is a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) and not a Phillips. A Phillips driver will destroy a JIS screw head. The word is getting out about JIS screw heads and JIS drivers are hard to find but do it anyway! I ordered mine last night. Try: https://www.mcmaster.com/jis-(japanese-industrial-standard)-screwdrivers/ I ordered: JIS/Jcis 8-Bit Set 1/4" Hex Shank for Power Tools [Item # 2661N2 ]

I ended up drilling mine out.

• Start small; progressively increase the diameter of sharp drill bits made for metal.
• Drill each time until you hit bottom (difficult to tell, length is 25mm).
• Then use the next size up drill bit to open up the hole. You are drilling to remove almost all screw material, in stages. Repeat.
• Drill as straight into the center of the screw thread body as you can, and centered on the very center of the screw body.
• Drilling off center, or too large, may damage the inside threads that the screw is threaded into.
• If you damage those inside threads then you will have to either "chase" them (hopefully), or rethread (NO!) possibly to a larger diameter
• At some point you can reverse the drill and it will likely pull the remaining metal screw pieces out.
• What you want remaining is a thin spiral of metal remaining from the high part of the thread; you have hopefully removed only the metal at the low part (valley) of the screw thread.