The Work Rig (aka Truck Norris)

I’m not sure exactly the rules regarding this, but I have a pretty detailed build thread over on an industry forum for the work truck I built off my 2019 access cab.

Here it is. https://pressurewashingresource.com/community/t/infinity-cleaning-mobile-3-0-aka-truck-norris/16040

I’d love to open this up to any questions regarding my truck build.

A couple pics:



Truck is going in to get re-lettered tomorrow (we rebranded). Then I’ll be reinstalling equipment that was in winter storage. So I will have some fresh, close up and detailed pics sometime next week.

 

Lol

 

Cool, post some pics in here or in your first post.

 

Thanks, @Grossomotto, I edited my post and added some details.

Also, here’s some video I shot while we were in the process of installing the bed:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mC9fEiHvqDg

 

Lettering went on this afternoon. I love my sign guy. Even did my window cleaning bucket, and did a logo for the grille emblem, too (no interference with the TSS radar system on the ride home).

 

Been working on a shelving system for the back of the cab. This is just the preliminary dry-fit:



The edges will get rounded over with a router, then everything will get sanded and painted high gloss white. (Seats will not usually be that far back.)

Maybe I can get a bit of modding cred for my fastening methods...? I could’ve just used self-tapping screws and been done with it



Simpson StrongTie angle braces with an added 90° bend, slipped through a slot in the plywood, and bolted to a couple of the headrest mounting points:


Small thin guage angle brackets slipped under/behind the plastic trim of the underseat storage bins:


Bottom shelf supported by the angle brackets. I used an angle drill to screw into the underside of the shelf.

 

Mondo awesome build Alex!

I got my SR5 for a 'personal' work truck but not anything to make a living with like yours, so... dayum, kudos to you. I like your signage: tasteful, easy to read, and to the point. I hate looking at these 100% wrapped commercial vehicles where I have to 'read' the whole blasted thing just to find the company name that has ended up being completely overwhelmed. One suggestion tho, you may want to consider adding a phone # and web address. Are extended mirrors and/or rear-view camera mods in your plans?

For the interior, I would suggest filleting the two lower front plywood corners, heavily round them over, fiberglass over that, and then paint.

 

Thanks, @rick carpenter. Yes, I’ve really enjoyed working off this truck. I think it’s fair to say that its already paid for itself!

I have progressively simplified my signage over the years. My previous vehicle wasn’t a full wrap, but it might well have been with how much reading it required, like you mentioned.

I did have a web address on the last layout for this truck. People would confuse it with our business name, since it’s not the same. E.g., “Should I make the check out to CleanVT?”

I ran an experiment last year with yard signs, and found that I got a higher response rate when they had *no* contact info (wasn’t an entirely scientific study, since there was no trackable contact info; I relied on customer feedback).

We’re in a small market, so I think we’ve built a little brand recognition. I think it’s less for people to remember/read. And, it forces people to google us, which brings up all our reviews and photos, and that basically does the selling for us.

It’s counterintuitive, but I think dropping the contact info might help the truck bring in more leads, as well.

I’m not sure I follow what you mean about “filleting the corners”. Could you elaborate?

Fiberglass would probably make for a more polished look, but it’s sure to add more weight. I’m pushing the GVWR with this rig as it is. I already regret going with all 3/4” ply for the shelves. Could’ve done some of it at least with 1/2”.

But my eventual plan is to bring the truck into the fabricating shop that built the ladder rack and some other stuff for me, and have them re-create the shelving out of aluminum.

 

Definite yes to the rearview camera. Been putting it off too long. Back window gets completely obscured by the water tanks. I’d actually like the screen to mount in place of the rearview mirror; wonder if anyone’s done that in a Tacoma before?

The stock side mirrors provide decent visibility. If I had gone with a wider bed, then I probably would’ve upgraded them to towing mirrors.

 

As far as your advertising strategy goes, "OK, I see what you did there." (Always wanted to say that...) Filleting would be filling in the inside corners with a square strip of plywood glued and screwed/nailed into place. Then you could round over the outside corners in a nice gentle radius. I suggested the fiberglass because no matter how well you sand down & finish routered bare plywood it will eventually get rough. This was all as a suggestion to try to save wear and tear on the back of your seats, but since you will one day have an aluminum unit then that solves that!

 

Awesome, thanks for the explanation! And that’s a good point about it eventually getting rough.

The seats will probably only get pushed back that far once in a blue moon. I very rarely have a passenger, and when I do, they’re not usually tall enough to put the seat back.

Driver’s seat will get leaned back for the occasional jobsite nap (yeah, I really do that from time to time. You wouldn’t believe what 10-15 minutes of shuteye can do for a day that’s dragging), but I will be careful not to jam it back against the plywood.

 

I got an awesome suggestion for finishing the shelves from a member over on the power washing forum. Marine carpet! (Or I’m thinking maybe some type of trunk liner material?). Either one would make for a really sharp stock look, as well as be functional. It would help prevent things from sliding around as much, and reduce any boominess I might get from the rear speakers.

 

You can use bed liner or something similar, very easy to clean and seals the wood from water.

 

Thanks for the tip, @Grossomotto.

In other news, I got the Bilstien 5100’s installed. I did not anticipate that they would lift the front end noticeably. Probably not a horrible look for a stock truck, but the flatbed really accentuates it in a bad way.

Any suggestions for leveling this out?

The firestone airbags are basically maxed out at this point to try and compensate. I’d much prefer to run them at a little less pressure, while keeping the truck from looking like a low rider.

 

The easiest would be a single add a leaf keeping the overload in. But, not sure how they would work with the airbags.

 

I’m thinking a small lift (maybe 2” or 3”?), but I have absolutely zero knowledge about the best way to accomplish that. There’re lift spacers/blocks aplenty on Amazon and ebay, but it all seems too cheap/simple to be a good thing... Can you point me in the right direction to some threads here?

Suspension is already plenty stiff for what I’m carrying (I might be a couple hundred pounds over payload when the tanks are full, which is just sometimes). I’d actually prefer to soften things a bit, if I can get away with it. The back appears to be sagging in comparison to the now slightly lifted front end. I think it looked ok/pretty good prior to the shocks being upgraded.

Edit: d’oh, I’m a moron. The bilstiens have that adjustable thing for the front height. Mechanic just set it at the max.

 

I used a Dobinson heavy load rear leaf spring. Truck will ride even better once the canopy is on!

 

Thanks @Ralf and everyone else who has replied.

So an update/more details on my setup:

I need to bring the truck back to the mechanic who just installed the 5100’s, and have them adjust the height setting on the front struts. I’m debating on whether to ask that they bring it all the way down to stock height, or leave it at an inch of lift. But I think I’m leaning more toward stock height.

The rear bilstein shocks are good for 1” of lift. Many of the aftermarket springs and AAL’s show 2” or more of lift... thoughts?

I have the Firestone airbags installed, which help level up the rear end under load. But I think I could use a little more help in the spring department, since I have some constant load even with empty water tanks.

I still need to bring the truck to the transfer station and get it weighed. But my best estimates are:

500-600 lbs of payload with water tanks empty
1400-1500 lbs with tanks full (I try not to drive with both of them full very often; mostly when I’m going to a job on a well and don’t want to use any more or their water than necessary). But they’re not usually completely empty, either.

So the average payload might be right around 950-1200 lbs.

I would like to get back to having a tiny bit of forward rake. Pre-5100’s, with the flatbed and equipment the truck sat basically level, no noticeable rake at all.

(believe it or not, I averaged 18.5 mpg last summer in the hills of VT, with OVtune & non-ethanol fuel.)

 

I'd say go with OME 660lb constant load rear springs. They're designed for 2" of rear lift, but since you want to stay stock, I'd say they will sit they way you want with the weight.

 

Awesome! Any particular seller you’d recommend?