ECGS Bushing - Is it a must?

Yea that is the beauty of lifting one thing leads to another never-ending, but that's what we signed up for! the only reason I changed mine is that I didn't like the amount of slack the needle bearing had on my axle definitely a weak point especially after a lift.

 

I installed the ECGS 7.5" clamshell bushing on my 2001 Taco. I was having the classic vibration/whirring after installing an OME lift kit on the truck. My local shop replaced the CV axels and put in a diff drop to remedy it, but that did not fully take care of it. So, I installed the bushing. So far, it seems to have taken care of it, although I don't have more than 100 mile on the new bushing as of yet.

The install went smooth. I did not take any video/pics, but everything went pretty much as in ECGS's install video. I did not have to modify the puller tool at all to get it to fit behind the needle bearing. It was snug, but it went with out any significant effort. The needle bearing came out easy. It showed signs of wear on the ends of the needles, presumably from the slop in the fitment. I installed a new CV seal as well. I was lucky enough to have a buddy who works in a shop help me with this. Having the truck on a lift was nice, but it wouldn't be too bad to do it with out.

I have a bearing removal tool from ECGS for the 7.5" clamshell (1st gens), if anybody wants it.

I am considering removing the diff drop after getting this bearing installed. A local 4X4 shop says they never put them in with a 2" - 2.5" lift on the 1st gens. He said the benefits are not worth the cost of lowering the diff (ie. reduced clearance).

 

Can confirm on the lack of benefits with a diff drop.

 

I only lifted my truck 2" and I started to feel the vibration. I was hoping that it wouldn't happen, but it did. I had the bushing installed and it fixed the vibration. So in my opinion, it is necessary if it needed it, not if it doesn't. Clear as mud.

 

I have a slight vibe at 70mph. But the worst vibe is on deceleration. From like 35-20, I get a pretty decent shake in the truck. Thought it was my rotors at first, but have ruled that out
I get 5.29s in my MT next week - getting this bushing installed as well. Hopefully that gets rid od my shimmy.
I'm on a 3" lift w/ bp51s. No diff drop. 100k miles on oem CVs

 

If you want to pinpoint the noise id say invest in some chassis ears. They are amazing. Used them to find a noise in my STi right after putting in a new motor. Thought it was valves but ended up being clutch/flywheel related. They are amazing for finding suspension creaks and groans especially kf you dont have help.

$104 STEELMAN 06600 ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IHIAES/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8

 

I did mine when I did my lift. was simple and straight forward. getting the cv shaft out was a bit of a PITA removing both facotry skidplates, then using a chisel and hammer ont he edges of the factory inner CV to pop it out.. 3 good whacks.. and it popped out.. I borrowed a tool and he had ground one edge to get the tool in easier.. I stuffed a gracery bag in there, and the tool piece after it, then threaded on the tool, and out came the bearing.. I froze my bushing, and used a piece of soft aluminum to tap it into place flush with the surface., re-assebly was easy... I did mine then TO AVOID HAVING TO DO IT IN THE DEAD OF WINTER in freezing temps.... $60 + about an hours time...

 

depends on your capabilities.. but I'd reserve at least an hour to jack up the truck, remove the skids, remove the wheel, loosen, and remove the bearing/axle nut, unbolt the lower ball joint, remove the outer CV shaft from the wheel bearing, then remove the inner CV shaft from the housing using either a removal tool ( I used a 14" long chisel) to force the inner CV shaft out of the diff (some fluid will come out)... then you can leave the seal in place (although I recommend getting a replacement just in case you do damage it, I did not damage mine at all... ) use the tool (mine one backside (that faces inside) was ground down a little to relieve it to fit much more easily behind the bearing), thread the rod into it, and start turning the nut on top of the plate.. the bearing should start moving VERY easily. (I used a set of ratcheting wrenches). then take your frozen bushing (makes it easier to install), and begin to slowly tap it into place with either a bearing racer installer, or I used just a chunk of aluminum stock I had.... and drive it flush with the inner lip. check bushing & seal lip has some lube on it, replace CV shaft into diff, give it a few whacks.. and then re-assemble everything else.. pretty easy job if you have the right tools. I would prefer to do it on a lift, but I did mine in my dirt driveway..

 

If...my friend were to have bent the cup/flange on the inner CV axle, would that be bad? It's warped but from what...my friend can tell, it's meant to keep debris out before it reaches the seal.

It's hard to know if I...I mean, my friend, whacked the CV in all the way but the gap looks similar to the passenger side. Had less than 1/8" of the bearing exposed (searching revealed 1/4" was maximum recommended, 1/8" closer to ideal).

I'm just paranoid that something got gunked up during this process that's gonna make me pale in the face and have to take it to a shop and pay money to verify I'm an idiot. Or just really paranoid.

 

My Bilstein 6112 front shocks shipped yesterday, the first part of the lift on my brand new 2021 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4X4 OFFROAD Premium. Already installed are BFG KO2 265/75/16 but still have to order 5160 Bilstein rear shocks and Icon AAL.

After that I will see if its necessary to replace that needle bearing. Shipping to Canada is very slow at the moment too.

 

Put everything back together. Nothing exploded, nothing made a pants-shitting noise like grinding, no new sounds, clunks, bumps, or hiccups, no leaks. I took my time but I've still got that little voice in the back of my head that is giving me doubt. I've told it to shut up.

Test drive: I noticed something was different in a good way before the rear wheels left my driveway. I wasn't expecting that. The whole drive just felt...normal. It's like listening to a noise that's in the background for so long that you just get used to it and it doesn't really bother you. And then one day it just stops and you can breathe again. Have not taken it on the highway yet but the vibes for most severe around 35mph, which I covered in my test drive. Very pleased.

I now have a removal tool up for grabs if anyone is in need.

 

Very Hemingway ECGSbearingish

 

So, you see, in my thought process it was worth every penny to have a shop do it for me for 200 bucks, including the parts. ESPECIALLY after reading that!

 

I almost shopped around. Even having done it, I would still consider having someone else do it. It's not hard, it's just a pain.

 

Getting my lift put on this Friday. I'm just having them do it off the bat. No reason not to while they are under there. More expensive after. And they don't make you buy the tool.

 

Howdy

How many people had to file the tool down to fit it properly on the other side of the needle bearing? I lack a bench grinder so would need to bring it to a friend. Peace and love.

 

I did. I was able to have my wife hold my angle grinder while I held the piece and filed it down. I didn't have to remove much but fitting it in was still a pain.

You don't want to remove too much surface area for the plane perpendicular to the threads because it won't grip as much of the bearing.

 

Found this giant image in another thread. Think Ill risk it and try without grinding.

 

In my experience, shouldn't be any risk involved if you don't grind it. If you work some magic and make it fit, then you win! At least that battle. If not, grind it down a little and try again.

 

That's always my moto.