2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 FJ tcased overlanding rockcrawling do-it-all build

Oh sure different ways to skin a cat but what I’m really trying to find out about is the ECU tuning to get more power (deleting smog pumps and cat monitors being a side benefit).

 

As far as I understand @OVTune is the only one that can get into the 4.7 ecus. But only a very limited amount as of now.

 

You have to keep the pump and valves in place for this setup though. Ideally ECU tuning you can completely disable the system and remove all the parts.

 

Replaced the LCAs and inner and outer tie rods over the weekend. Just got the alignment done this afternoon.

Used the SuperPro offset bushing LCAs from Apache Offroad. They are pretty nice.









Inner and outer tie rods are all 555 parts from Napa.



Reused the OEM rack boots since they were is great condition. Just needed a little cleaning.



Tie rods and LCA ganked from the driver side.



And the passenger side.



Little blurry but I also did a rather aggressive body mount chop while I had the room. Did not weld in anything since I will likely do a body mount relocation later.



This was the nose of the body mount from the passenger side. The clean part is where the tire was rubbing. Driver side was similar.



Passenger side mount.



New parts installed.



Passenger side mostly done.







I used a small level the set the camber without the wheels on, worked well enough that they didn't need to adjust it during the alignment. Roughly eyeballed and measured toe but got it off enough that the steering wheel was cranked very slightly left. Tracked straight tho so I was able to drive it still. Here are the alignment results. I wanted the wheels as far forward as possible. Which I got and they didn't have to change the SPC ball joint position at all from where I set them.



Drives great, tracks straight, isn't flighty or squirrely and return to center is fine still too. Pretty happy overall. Now I just need the rear springs and shocks so I can wrap up the suspension upgrades for now. Brakes are next on the list and then I'm done for a while. I think.

 

Nothing exciting going on with the 4Runner right now, since I'm still waiting for the remaining rear suspension parts to ship. Metal Tech let me know that the ETA for the rear springs is around April 27th and the ADS shocks are still being built. Those will probably be done in the next week or 2 I think. I have new spring isolators being delivered tomorrow for the rear springs. So in the meantime, I did some basic maintenance stuff.

Changed gear oil in the front and rear diffs and the transfer case. Then did oil and filter for the engine. Going to do the trans at some point again and will drain and drop the pan and replace the strainer when I do it.

Re-tightened all the body mount bolts. I've been getting cracking/popping when going around corners and thought maybe the body mounts were moving around. Still happening, although maybe not as bad so I'm not sure what is causing it. Ball joints were my original concern but that was ruled out after replacing the UCAs & LCAs and still getting the noise.

While I was doing the body mounts, since I had to pull the rear platform to get to the rear-most body bolts, I gave the platform a couple extra coats of spray bedliner to freshen it up a little. Also replaced the 12v accessory port in the rear passenger side panel with the dual USB port/volt meter that was removed with the tcase swap.







And today, I just finished rotating the tires and installing the rear wheel spacers. Also sold the old wheels/tires that were on the truck when I bought it.

 

Finally decided to ditch the slip on steering wheel cover. I liked the added thickness of it but it tended to twist on the wheel and I was constantly having to readjust it. The stock leather cover has holes in it, looks like shit and was absolutely gross from lack of cleaning by the previous owner. Have to have something to cover it. No pics of the stock cover on the wheel. This is the slip on cover tho.





Picked this up from Amazon -

$30 Loncky Microfiber Leather Car Steering Wheel Cover for Toyota Land Cruiser 1995-2007/Tacoma 2005-2011/4Runner 2003-2009/Sienna 2004-2010/Sequoia 2003-2007/Camry Highlander Accessories Parts

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DR8BHZ7

Nice leather, perforated, well made. Pain in the ass to sew up but that's not the products fault. I just suck at sewing.







Tight fit getting the leather tucked in behind the plastic. I think it'd come out a lot nicer and be easier to do with the wheel removed and all the plastic out of the way. But that's more work than i care to do for a simple wheel cover.





Feels much better, looks much better and won't move around. Pretty happy with it overall.

 

While I'm waiting for the rear springs and shocks to come in, it's high time to put some stopping power back into this truck! Time for brake upgrades.

EBC USR Sport Brake rotors front and rear. Front's are 2010-15 4Runner rotors. Little thicker, little larger diameter. Rears are 2003 4Runner since there is no benefit in going with the later model rear rotors. Besides the center hole being larger, causing the rotor to move around under braking.

Front 2010-15 4runner rotors -

$207 EBC Brakes USR7578 USR Sport Brake Rotor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070W8WJC
Rear 2003-09 4Runner rotors -

$212 EBC Brakes USR7161 USR Series Sport Slotted Rotor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C8WRFA

Akebono ceramic brake pads all around.

Front -

$56 Akebono - ACT976 Brake Pad Set, GREY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C1LLPA
Rear -

$55 Akebono ACT606A Ultra-Premium Ceramic Rear Disc Brake Pads , GREY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RN9WMDT



Front calipers are 2010-15 4Runner 14WA PowerStop remans.

Front left - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7204232&cc=3307198
Front right - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7204228&cc=3307198

Rear calipers are also PowerStop remans but stock replacements for the 2003-09 4Runner.

Rear left - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6534992&cc=1418240
Rear right - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6534988&cc=1418240



I was a little annoyed at the difference of the one front caliper. But not enough to send it back. I need to get the brakes done. I'll live with it and maybe paint them later. At least it's the correct side, is a 14WA and fully rebuilt.



Lots of really good, technical information covering the differences in the front calipers and rotors found here - I'll start working on it tomorrow morning. Going to do a complete brake fluid flush before anything else. Just got Techstream v16.00.017 working on the shop laptop again. Which of course tripped the Zero Point Calibration so now I have VSC/TRAC lite up and will have to redo the calibration when I'm done. Also going to recalibrate the DAC (downhill assist) since the directions are included and mine doesn't seem to work. Not that I need it, just a nice to have sine it's there.

Yes, these are 5th gen instructions. They are the same for the 4th gen, just with extra stuff the 4th gens don't have -

 

Got the brakes done today. Still need to do some more bleeding as the pedal is still spongy but they work.

Had to run over to O'rielly's and pick up a 2nd set of 6 ton jack stands first. Then it was lift the truck and place it on stands and remove the wheels.



Then connect the computer and fire up Techstream so I could pre-flush the brakes before tearing them apart.



Crusty old fluid I flushed out.



Truck still had the original calipers with 303k miles on them. Front piston boots had holes but weren't seized since Arizona truck.







New calipers, rotors, pads and brake lines all around for the rear. I used the StopTech braided caliper lines and Metal Tech center rear braided lines.









Rear parking brake shoes and hardware all looked in great condition still so they just got cleaned and left alone.



Since I had already changed the front brake lines, it was just a parts swap. However, the new rotors are significantly larger (2010-15 4Runner front rotors and calipers) and required trimming the backing plates. Rear stuff is still 2003-09 4Runner stuff. I'll eventually change the backing plates out for the correct ones but that will only happen when I eventually have to change front wheel bearings.

The original 13WG caliper and the newer 14WA caliper side by side. They are the same size, same mounting bolt locations but the 14WA pistons are 3mm larger.



New and old rotor size comparison. Not only are the new rotors larger diameter, they are also thicker and have more cooling vanes, which will help prevent warping.



Test fitting the new rotors, you can see how the backing plates need trimming. 03-09 did have a larger rotor option that matches the diameter of the new ones but my 03 did not get that I guess.



Top and bottom have to be trimmed. I used a $35 nibbler from Amazon, they are awesome for this stuff.







This is the one I bought -

$33 Dicfeos Double Head Metal Sheet Nibbler Cutter with Circle Cutting Accessories, Drill Attachment with Wrench and Parts, Maximum 14 Gauge Steel

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742G5562

These are the metal shavings from the cut.



All trimmed, I just had to bend the edges back a little to clear the rotors.







Then it was bleed, bleed again and test drive. I guess I messed up the bleed order and started with the rear right, like you normally would. However, with the brake accumulator on the 4th gens (and later models), you are supposed to do both front and THEN the rears. Might be why I have spongy brakes still. So, I'm going to take it to a secluded dirt road, get the ABS to kick in a few times and then come home and try bleeding it again to see if that helps any. And then I get to do a Zero Point Calibration because the VSC/TRAC light are on again. Yay!

 

After doing more bleeding last Sunday, I took the truck for a light offroad romp.

The rear suspension is still waiting for parts, which are hopefully arriving in the next couple weeks. Metal Tech said they should have the rear springs on April 27th and I talked to ADS this week as well. ADS had some supplier issues and their plater, for the black caps and other things, has been severely backed up so ADS has been delayed getting the rear shocks done. I'm hoping springs and shocks will arrive around the same time.

But, back to the point, the rear suspension SUCKS right now so I kept things really light and it still bottomed out hard several times. The added weight of the rear bumper and tire carrier really overloaded the rear suspension. It was still nice to get out and offroad to do a little exploring.











With the overcast cloud cover, temps were awesome and I was driving with windows down and the sunroof open most of the time.



Brakes have been working great. I might try doing one more re-bleed this weekend to see if I can get the pedal to firm up a little more but otherwise, they are done. One less maintenance thing to worry about now.

 

bruh. updates here are behind. i got these photos last week!

 

That's only because you get the personalized updates. Since you're special needs....

 

That’s right bitch

 

Dang, awesome build! This is one cool and functional 4th gen. It was a great thread until I saw ADS-- then I was hooked. I ordered mine back in February, still waiting on a shipped email... so needless to say, I'm blown away you could find a set on their shelf in March (and super jealous!!). How do you like your coilovers?
On a sidenote, that rear bumper is so badass. I've always hated how the majority of aftermarket bumpers for 4th gens have solid steel for the entire thing, I really like how you just trimmed that upper plastic. Heck, I don't care for CBI's option for 4th gens, which seems to be a rare opinion. Anyway, awesome bumper. I'm happily subbed.

 

Thanks. ADS seems to be waiting on other companies to be able to finish anything. When I stopped in to get the fronts (think I just got really lucky they had a set with 700lb springs on the shelf), they looked like they had a lot of stock. Same when I was there to order the rears but I'm still waiting for those. Same with the rear HDLT springs from Metal Tech. Hopefully I have them in the next week or 2 but I'm not holding my breath. As long as they arrive in time for me to install them before the 2nd weekend of June, I'll be OK.

Front coilovers are great, I had them on my 99 Tacoma as well. Although, on the 4runner, since I still have basically stock rear that is overloaded, the fronts help but I don't get the full performance out of them I don't think. Mismatched suspension like this kinda sucks.

 

Relocated the stock horns today, mainly to allow a little more airflow to the radiator. I haven't had cooling issues but it won't hurt to get better airflow, even if just a little bit.

This was the stock location, upper right of the radiator from when I was building the front bumper. The lower part is completely covered now by the bumper, so very little air flow there.



Apparently, I can't take in focus pictures no matter what I do.... Moved the horms to each side of the rad support and used a couple M8 rivnuts to secure them. Then had to extend the wiring to reach them.



Also had to cut down the plastic shroud thing since the horns were in the way now.



Little better. Better than it was at least.

 

The MetalTech HD LT rear springs have finally arrived! Ordered them on 2/28/21.

Only problem now is that ADS had delays from their plater and I won't have the rear shocks ready for another week. So... Install is further delayed still...



Forget if I mentioned it already, but I picked up a GMRS radio a couple weeks ago - https://www.ruggedradios.com/products/rugged-gmr45-mobile-gmrs-radio-kit

Yes, there are cheaper options out there, like Midland, which is good too. I have a buddy that sells these from the moto shop he works at locally and would rather support him and a local business so took this route.

Spent some time trying to figure out where to mount it. I already have a CB radio and decided that the best mounting spot for the GMRS would be where the CB was, since the GMRS is physically a little larger and the bracket makes it stick out further than the CB one does.

While trying to figure out where to mount both radios, I managed to break the overhead console/maplight/sunglassholder thingy. The clips just wouldn't let go. So I have an ebay one on order right now to replace this one, assuming the ebay one is in decent shape. Always hard to tell from the pics. In the meantime, it still works and looks like this.



And no, a CB or full size GMRS will not fit up there, unless you get a detachable face plate or take your CB apart or something. I have the Uniden Pro520xl, which is one of the smaller CB radios you can get that doesn't have controls in the mic. I'm not a fan of those personally.

$67 Uniden PRO520XL Pro Series 40-Channel CB Radio. Compact Design. ANL Switch and PA/CB Switch. 7 Watts of Audio Output and Instant Emergency Channel 9. - Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004VXNI

So, first I had to relocate the CB to make room for the GMRS. Decided to mount the CB under the steering column, to the kick panel. It's light and has a small profile so doesn't interfere with my legs when driving or getting in/out.



Mounted the bracket using large diameter fender washers to spread the load out on the plastic.





GMRS is mounted where the CB was originally.





GMRS antenna is using the mag mount that came with it and is centered on the roof. I used the channels in the rack to run the antenna cable to the front edge of the windshield and was able to tuck the cable under the windshield molding and goes down around the hood hinge, over the inner fender lip and enters the cab thru the door accordion rubber.





Of course, the antenna cable was about 2 feet too short, so I have a longer, 15 foot cable on order now and get to pull the fender and redo the whole antenna cable routing again.

Rugged Radios 15' Length Coax Antenna Cable with NMO Mount for Two Way Mobile Radios

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082WMJXQD

 

Just picked up another set of Sequoia wheels. These are getting painted and then I'll paint the ones on the truck. Will have a matching spare wheel finally. And fitment test wheels for 35s.

 

Just catching up. Good progress. Which LCAs did you go with?

 

SuperPro with offset bushings to make it easier to get more caster. I'm running around 4.5 deg caster now and can adjust more in with the SPC uppers if needed.

 

Awesome build I was just wondering.. did you notice any improvement in MPGs after switching to the FJ transfer case?