Caliraised OEM light switches burning out

I hate to say this, but if you smelled smoke then you trashed more than just your switches.

I would throw away and replace all of my relays if I were you. Then I would take out all of the wiring, check it carefully, and rebuild from scratch. Do one at a time and triple check that it's correct before doing the next circuit. It's cheap insurance against burning your truck to the ground.

 

Sounds like either relay or harness has an issue.

Also, there should be more than one fused line in your circuit. 1 fused power line into switch and 1 fused power line into relay.

In Windsor's image:
Switch harness:
* Green line (power into switch) is one that i normally use a 2A fuse on. Some switches will burn if they see >3A but unless relay has a problem or wire is shorting somewhere, relay should not draw that much.
* Red1 goes to 86 on relay. This is the signal that triggers the relay.
* Red2 can be left unplugged. Or can tap to dash lights signal so switch lights up when lights are on. I normally use a fuse tap on the taillight fuse under dash with 2A going to switch.
Black needs ground to metal somewhere on its own. Do not splice it into an existing oem ground wire.

Relay wires:
86 come from your switch.
30 comes from battery and should have a fuse on that line near battery. 15A fuse should be plenty for LED bar most of the time for ones I've used at least.
85 needs good ground to metal.
87 goes to your light positive wire.
87a may not exist. If it does, make certain it is not connected to anything.
Then ground your light's negative line.

FYI, 86 on relay only has per when your switch is on. 87a, if it exists on your relay, has power only when switch is off