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2003 X-Cab 4x4 Budget Audio Build

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by rob feature, Dec 14, 2015.

  1. Oct 5, 2018 at 7:25 PM
    #81
    chrslefty

    chrslefty Well-Known Member

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    Awesome progression!!.
    How did you mount the amp board to the floor? Also did you put mlv behind the birch on the rear wall??
     
  2. Oct 5, 2018 at 8:04 PM
    #82
    rob feature

    rob feature [OP] Tacos!

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    Thanks!

    The amp boards are secured with machine screws & large flat washers through the carpet...more robust than it sounds. They don't budge.

    Nope, didn't need MLV behind the plywood. It does an excellent job of blocking noise all by itself. I get less noise now from the back wall than from anywhere else in the truck. Believe it or not, those rear plastic quarter panels block a good bit of noise. I still have the right side out & it's pretty crazy how much road noise gets through without them. Need to get some MLV back there but it's going to be tricky the way those panels are designed.

    Hoping to get to work on this some more before too long. Doing wheel bearings right now though o_O
     
    chrslefty likes this.
  3. Dec 7, 2018 at 7:30 AM
    #83
    justin30513

    justin30513 New Member

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    I came across this build of yours when I was trying to get ideas for a enclosure for my Helix DSP. Your picture of your Helix came up when I searched Google for suggestions LOL!
    I followed the picture here and just read your entire build process. I compete with Hybrid Audio Technologies....in fact I live an hour from their headquarters.
    They had a leftover board that they kept in stock. If a customer had a bad unit come in for warranty, they were just swap the board out instead of making them wait for theirs to get repaired in Germany. I ended up with a bare board when they dropped Helix and now are the United States Zapco distributor.
     
  4. Dec 7, 2018 at 7:32 AM
    #84
    justin30513

    justin30513 New Member

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    Yes, I have a Ranger LOL. But believe me Tacomas have been in my life. My brother has had 14 and currently owns a Tundra only because he needs something or heavy duty for his work. He's a builder.
    My competition vehicle is me and my girlfriends 2005 Acura TL. I'm currently building the Ford Ranger.
     
  5. Dec 7, 2018 at 8:30 AM
    #85
    rob feature

    rob feature [OP] Tacos!

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    That's a helluva way to find yourself here, but welcome to TW! I wrote the Budwalas (sp?) back when they were still the USA's Helix distributor and asked what it would take to get a case here for that pro board. IIRC they quoted me like $250! I never tried MSC. I can see if the guy who machined mine can make you one if you want. It took a little while, but he has the file now so it might be a good bit quicker the 2nd time around.
     
  6. Sep 9, 2020 at 8:54 PM
    #86
    opteron

    opteron Well-Known Member

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    awesome audio build. I was thinking of getting the dpx794 or dpx 594. Lots of good information here, thank you!
     
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  7. Apr 19, 2021 at 2:56 PM
    #87
    rob feature

    rob feature [OP] Tacos!

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    Time for another upgrade!

    It's the same size as the SA, so I'm gonna drop it in & see what I think. If it sucks, I'll try sealed.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Apr 20, 2021 at 2:05 PM
    #88
    chrslefty

    chrslefty Well-Known Member

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    So what is it ?
     
  9. Apr 20, 2021 at 2:22 PM
    #89
    chrslefty

    chrslefty Well-Known Member

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    Also could i get your advice. I know a lot of people are against rear fill.but i like the way it sounds and there are time were i plan on removing sub for long road trips or camping and would still like some bass in the back any suggestions? I have a 4 channel to help push them .
     
  10. Apr 20, 2021 at 2:45 PM
    #90
    rob feature

    rob feature [OP] Tacos!

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    Audiofrog GB10 D4

    Rear fill done 'properly' is bandwidth limited and would not be bass heavy. I'm not sure exactly what setup you're using, but if you like rear speakers, use them. There's no right nor wrong. Sealing the chambers where the rear speakers are located will help with bass and midbass response. Of course sealing doors fully is not going to happen, but the more you can separate front and rear waves, the more you can reduce destructive interference & benefit from an air spring.
     
  11. Apr 20, 2021 at 3:04 PM
    #91
    chrslefty

    chrslefty Well-Known Member

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    I'm sorry i was asking if you had any speaker recommendations. My stock excab rear speakers are toasted.
    I have a rf 5.25" component set in the front. And a 4 channel amp its a rf 4-600. And ill be running a 2nd amp for the sub.
     
  12. Apr 20, 2021 at 3:36 PM
    #92
    rob feature

    rob feature [OP] Tacos!

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    Right, you don't have doors back there. Dunno why I was thinking you drove a truck with rear doors. Without knowing budget it's hard to make specific recommendations, but if you're trying to keep it simple & use the factory 5x7 speaker mounts, most of your options are on the lower end. JL, Audiofrog and Image Dynamics make the only nice 5x7/6x8 I can think of.

    You could also fab up something and put in a round driver (or coax if you're looking for full range back there) - LOTS more options there.

    Another option is to ditch the full range back there and turn those cubbies into sub enclosures. Not sure if they're sealed, but that can be fixed. Seems like there's room for a couple decent 6.5" subwoofers or maybe even shallow 8s. That would solve your space issues if you were willing to take the time to prep those cavities & build a baffle.
     
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  13. Apr 20, 2021 at 4:41 PM
    #93
    chrslefty

    chrslefty Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking more of a round driver.
    If you were going to put a 6.5 driver how would you go about it?
     
  14. Apr 20, 2021 at 5:12 PM
    #94
    rob feature

    rob feature [OP] Tacos!

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    It's been a while since I've been in there, but I'd build a baffle. Might have to install some inserts to attach it.

    [​IMG]

    Maybe using the old plastic baffle for a template so that it lines up with the OE grill - probably using some closed cell foam to keep the sound channeled into the cabin. Might even be able to just cut the factory baffle out a little after looking at it again and make it work in a low power situation???

    [​IMG]

    Or if it were for sub use or higher power, try to seal all that up somehow. Maybe shove a bunch of absorptive material in there too. You might even be able to get decent results just covering the whole inside with deadener, & filling gaps .

    Or cut out the whole pocket & make some kinda pretty panel to replace the inset.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2021
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  15. Apr 21, 2021 at 2:15 AM
    #95
    chrslefty

    chrslefty Well-Known Member

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    Thats a good idea. Thanks
     

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