Home Improvement Today?

Guessing that's a problem? lol

 

When I win the lottery I don't play, I'm gonna fly OZ out here to the states to build me a house.

 

Does anyone here have any experience with LP Tech shield radiant barrier?

 

Calling anyone with masonry/wood stove experience. 6" single wall stove pipe comes off the wood burning stove, turns 90* through a 6-8" expansion elbow, goes through an 8" wall thimble (unnecessary in block, but there nonetheless), turns up 90* through an adjustable 8" chimney elbow, and the chimney is haphazardly mounted to the brick, extending roughly ~48" proud of the roofline.

My concern here is the wall thimble and exterior elbow. The thimble is free floating, only supported by the elbows on either end. It seems the previous owner had it somewhat mortared in place with furnace cement but that clearly didn't last. What would you guys suggest to support the thimble and seal the exterior? And would anyone replace the exterior elbow with a tee? I'm considering stuffing the wall cavity with mineral wool insulation to support the thimble, and mortaring it in place from the outside with a caulked expansion gap similar to a chimney crown. The parging is a disaster and will need to be addressed as well.

 

This. Plus a fabbed flange/passthrough that seals both sides, sleeve and all.

 

Thanks for the insight both of you. I'm thinking a tee is the right call. In the case of the tee, would I also be replacing the piece through the wall, or what I'm referring to as the thimble? The stack itself is certainly improperly installed. That will get remedied as well.

I like the idea of fabricated flanges on both sides - that seems pretty common on most "through the wall" kits.

For full transparency I should probably show the indoor junctions in the basement. The piece I'm referring to as the thimble is 6" ID / 8" OD, so I'm not sure if this would qualify as the sleeve, as there are no combustibles on either face of the wall. The pipe collar is doing nothing other than hiding the hole. The previous owner cobbled this kit together, so I'm not sure if this is even a proper connection here.

 

I really wish there was a 'Don't Like' button for stuff like this!!!!!!!!

Gun the lot! that elbow doesn't appear to be mechanically attached to the stack, the stack isn't plumb or parallel to the structure, that pass through is a ****ing mess... The stack isn't fastened properly to the structure... As others have said: A proper passthrough, sealed at both ends (probably a double-wall, insulated one, but maybe not because it's masonry), an 'L' (should be no need for a 'T' here) with a support base, and then new stack, with proper standoffs and securing. You may also need to put a safety/heat shield around it up to the 96" mark if that's single-wall stack. In short:

1. Call your local agency responsible for such things and find out what code requires.
2. Purchase & install same.

 

Agreed. I appreciate your input. The whole system is wrong.

The stove pipe expands to 8" prematurely, then drops back down to 6"; the passthrough is the only insulated pipe in the system which is totally unsupported; the elbow isn't fastened (at all) to either the passthrough pipe OR the stack; the stack is all single wall (I believe double wall/insulated is required) and is barely hanging on to the structure at this point.

I'll be starting from scratch on this one. The hole in the wall is sealed up for now until I can get the time do redo it properly. We won't be burning for a few months anyway and its no wonder I couldn't get the stove hot last winter. Cheers to first time home ownership!

 

You guys had me scared s&*tless because I just had vinyl installed in my bathroom, but it’s LVP!

 

Replaced some stair treads on our back deck. One was completely loose on one side.

 

Well we are in the middle of our LVP flooring installation. Removing the vinyl flooring that is glued to an underlayment that is both glued and stapled to the subfloor has been a massive pain in the a.... But progress has been made. Today we made it to the tricky spot. Home Depot sells a stair nose that matches my material, however it has not arrived yet and I didnt feel like waiting for it to get here. Plus getting it to match up perfectly was going to be a real struggle. So I jumped on youtube and came across a guy who, like myself is a homeowner and loves to DIY. He came up with probably the most brilliant thing I've seen with regards to LVP flooring by making his own stair nose. I stole this brilliant idea and came here to post the results. Where it is not "flawless" it is definitely good enough we feel. Bonus is if anything ever happens to it, I can simply make it again. Process involved removing 1/8" of the material with my router from around the lip to give it the ability to bend when heated up but also thick enough to retain it's shape and feet hitting it. I then used my heat guy to warm the entire lip while my wife used our second heat gun to keep it warm while I was heating up the other parts, then used a flat board to roll the edge. Once we got to the underside, I did not have enough material to fully wrap under. My initial plan was to use the board I was "wrapping" the edge with to wedge the under lip under the stair nose until it cooled. Since the lip barely rolled under this was not an option, so we heated it up 6 inchs at a time and manually pressed it into place, and then used my ryobi high volume inflator (I use it to clear dust off projects) to blow on the lip to help it cool more rapidly, and then worked our way down til we came to this point. Because of the board butting up too it I did have to glue the lip in place, but still should work great. VERY happy.

Bending the lip


All done with wrapping


Second row coming in place.

 

THAT looks great!

 

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Got a new 75" tv for the living room, moving my 55" to replace my garage 55" tv today. The one in the garage works fine but a bit outdated so ill sell the extra one i have i guess

 

why sell? bathroom TV

 

Doing some work on an airbnb on the Maine coast. Replaced a window and upon removing the old one, I learned it was actually an old wood patio door that had been installed horizontally. Good times! Peeled back all the cedar clapboards and old trim and reinstalled both on new window. New window was installed plumb and square, but RO was way off. Pre assembled the interior trim as a single unit and went in perfectly. Used some screws along the bottom as shims to level the casing assembly. Wrapped up painting today.

 

If you were building a Desk that was 10' long, butcher block top, how would you build the frame and attach the top?
I'm thinking 4x4 posts for the 4 corners and two centers. I need it relatively easy to disassemble if we need to move it out of the office. I've thought of mortise and tenon for the frame (2x4 tenon into mortised 4x4) and then either the same by mortising the underside of the desktop to a short tenon on the tops of the 4x4s but I'm also a wood working novice working with limited tools. Thoughts? Tenons I'm not worried about doing, that's a measure, and handsaw project I'm willing to take the time on, but I've never done any chisel work and I'm not sure my little drill press would have enough work room to handle the mortising on the underside of the desktop. I'm thinking 1-2" off corner for the legs. Braces between legs except on the seat side of the desk. I can sketch something up later when I get home. I guess I could bolt down from the top of the desktop but I'd like to keep the desktop intact and unmarred.

Considering Cedar for the legs.

EDIT: Guess I could attach it like so