Truck pulls right after multiple alignments

I would want around 1/2* less caster on the driver side to account for road crown. Maybe that's what's going on. I remember my driver side being around 3* and the passenger is around 3.5*. That 1/2 degree of cross caster helps keep it from wanting to track right

 

I’d bet on something be bent or broken.

 

@nd4spdbh they didn’t give me an alignment sheet

 

If they are not giving you an alignment sheet, how do you know they are doing an alignment (or a proper one)?

 

There may be a question before this one

@850_taco Do you understand how to read/decipher an alignment sheet?

 

Bingo. It would be hard for me to trust a shop without data to back up their claims.

 

There's a place in town around here that's really popular for alignments on classics and older cars in general, they do it all without computers/by hand...the "old school way" so I've been told. You don't get a print out from them, but I suspect the OP isn't going to a place like that.

 

Mine's been pulling very much to the right (enough that I was able to take a 2-mile long right-hand curve at 65mph hands off during my commute) with new 255/80R17 ST Maxx at .9/2.0, but I had no such issues with the old tires (265/70R17 Duratracs) at 2.4/3.0. So, I took @ bassackwards advice (after reading several similar comments elsewhere) and had mine redone earlier this afternoon, so that my caster is driver/passenger 2.0/2.4. It seemed like it was driving straight in the road after the re-alignment, but the real test will be when I hit the highway tomorrow. Worst case scenario, it's still pulling in one direction and I'm out no dollars.

 

There's a thread on here about how a lot of people experience a right hand pull with STMaxx, I mean I have them and a bad pull myself but it's not the tires in my case. But some people claim they do.

 

I’m having my coilovers rebuilt next week along with new cam bolts and driver side outer tie rod. I’ll report back...

 

Road crown you need a bit of toe etc to compensate. Unless it is pulling hard enough to change lanes in just a few seconds....

 

My tires have been 265/75/16 st maxx for the last two years. I replaced them (today) with 285/70/17 st maxx and I’m hoping I didn’t make a mistake!?!?! Noticed I have a tie rod end bad and possibly a warped rotor (which only has about 12k miles on it) and also my Icons need rebuilding. I hope something changes soon after spending all this damn money!

 

I'd say enough to change lanes over maybe 1/3 mile on the highway, but with very little compensation required to actually keep it straight (hand at 12 o'clock on the wheel rolled to 11.5... but the hand needed to be there for the entirety of the commute, even in bumper to bumper).

The completed sheet I got has the following up front (driver/passenger [spec range]):

Camber: 0.3/0.2 [-0.3 to 1.3]
Caster: 2.0/2.4 [1.0 to 2.5]
Toe: 0.02/0.02 [-0.02 to 0.09]
SAI*: 11.4/11.7 [11.2 to 12.7]
Inc. Angle*: 11.7/11.9 [11.0 to 14.0]
Cross Camber: 0.1 [-0.5 to 0.5]
Cross Caster: -0.4 [-0.5 to 0.5]
Cross SAI*: -0.3 [M/A]
Total Toe: 0.04 [-0.04 to 0.17]
Thrust Angle: 0.02

*Not a clue as to what these are.

Yeah, I read that and thought about it quite a bit before pulling the trigger on them over Ridge Grapplers. Talked to a few people that run them and they said they didn't have issues. Given that the alignment with the old wheels/tires had the caster apparently setup to avoid the right pull, but it wasn't with the new wheels/tires, I figured that I'd give that a go. One advantage of the alignment shop is that they don't charge to make adjustments for a few months.

 

@nd4spdbh @iK0NiK i took to my local Toyota dealer a couple of days ago and they said it was fixed when I drove out of there it started pulling again so I took it back to them and told them to fix it i will ask for a alignment sheet this next time they call me to tell me it’s ready

 

@stevesnj yes but I never got a sheet this alignment I’ll ask for one this time when they tell me it’s ready

 

Just put new rims and tires on today and the pull is still there. Will be changing cam bolts and realigning tomorrow, along with new driver side outer tie rod end. I think I may have a warped rotor and I’ll be looking into that as well. I’ll report back after cam bolts and alignment.

 

Depending on how bad it pulls it could be, the crown of the road, or some specs call for a slight right so you go off the road instead of into traffic if you take a nap. That's if nothing is actually wrong

 

Mine does it too.
Me and 3 different shops haven’t been able to figure it out.

I haven’t taken the spindles off to compare them.
That’s a a lot of work, and a new spindle isn’t cheap.

My left front (drivers) tire will wear slightly faster on the inside edge.
It take about 30k before it really shows up.

Alignment can be set spot on. All is good there and with-in spec.

 

I guess if it kicks out of alignment again after they align it this time I’ll just get them to align it more left so it counter acts the pulling

 

Update toyota has no clue what’s wrong with it