My Oil Change Didn't Go So Well

Yes totally normal! Modern oil and its additives have gotten so good that it keeps the inside of engines incredibly clean. It’s actually good if the oil looks dirty right away, means everything is working. I won’t go into the science of oils but using high quality oil that’s the CORRECT spec and doing oil services between 5-7.5k on most cars is important.

You can see puddles of “dirty” oil sitting in there and that car had about 60k on it. The inside still looks new! Pretty much every engine I take apart is that clean. Oil is amazing stuff! I will note the reason for frequent oil changes is to help save variable valve timing components, oil seals, maintain PCV systems and prevent excessive carbon build up. I know a lot of people will disagree with me but what do I know, I literally deal with this stuff everyday.

 

Same thing here, it's what I do every day. People still try to argue thinking they know more when the only things they have done is oil change and maybe their brakes.

 

Color is not an accurate indicator of an oil’s condition. Only repeated lab samples can tell you that. For personal vehicles it’s more cost effective to just change your oil and filter on schedule. But it does something for me psychologically when my oil looks good.

2003 Tacoma 2.7L, 120K miles, 7500 miles on Mobil 1 5W-30. I change it once a year or every 7500 miles, whichever happens first.


2001 Silverado 2500 6.6L diesel, 180K, 5000 miles on Rotella 15W-40. GM's interval is 10,000 miles but I do 7500 to satisfy my OCD for vehicle maintenance.

 

Biggest difference is probably that your engine has a crankcase breather filter and my year duramax just has open crankcase ventilation. A little bit of blowby is normal which is why all engines require some form of crankcase ventilation. If that blowby is filtered, more of the miniscule particles of sooty oil are separated from the combustion gases and go back into the crankcase. But it's truly nothing to worry about. I am an industrial diesel mechanic and we rely on oil samples, not color, to tell us the true condition of the oil.

 

Lol like the high school kid at the dealership.

 

I stopped using those places altogether after they rounded the bolt points using wrong size air wrenches(wtf, air wrenching on an aluminum pan?). I may go back to diy at some point but I like my wrench guy and want him behind the wheel occasionally. Plus, a 2wd 5-lug has no room underneath, the trucks I used to diy were lifted 4wd and even they I rolled up on ramps.

 

Sounds interesting. When I changed the oil in mine a few days ago, I used a hammer to insert the plastic thing into the filter, having had difficulty inserting it in my wife's RAV4. This way I got some oil on the hammer, but not running down my arm. Does the metal version of the filter housing use a screw in drain for the oil? If so, I will buy two.

 

Have any off you tried not crawling under your truck to change your oil and using an extractor instead. I just started doing this on my motorcycles and on my wife’s car.... game changer.

run the engine to warm up the oil, put the tube into the dipstick hole, suck the oil out, change the filter, new oil and you are done. Easy, clean, and no ramps or laying on my back in our gravel drive.

 

Ya, when I get older I like paying someone else to clean the pool or mow the lawn. I'll keep on doing my own oil filter as I hate paying $400 for a Honda Accord Oil Pan (yep, stripped bolt).

The cartridge filters are more environmentally friendly. Year of aircraft, so I used to cut open the housings and scrape oil filter media to see what was trapped in there.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/fc2000oilCutter.php

Another Tip: Large sheets of cardboard and changing the oil. Yes, I have had those days when I fell over, catching the lip of the oil pan. Do keep extra rolls of paper towels in the garage.

Fujimoto oil drain valves are nice. Piece of 3/4" pipe to push up the drain pin and act as a guide.

3rd generation V6:
Oil Filter Torque: 17 N·m {175 kgf·cm, 13 ft·lbf}

drain plug Torque: 38 N·m {382 kgf·cm, 28 ft·lbf}

Get a big drain pan!

Drain and refill without oil filter sub-assembly change

5.5 liters (5.8 US qts, 4.8 Imp. qts)

Drain and refill with oil filter sub-assembly change

5.9 liters (6.2 US qts, 5.2 Imp. qts)

Dry fill

6.4 liters (6.8 US qts, 5.6 Imp. qts)

 

I usually take that little drain tool and stick in into an empty water bottle and then push up into the bottom of the filter with no mess.

 

I've never cared about diesel pickups before but this one fell into my lap. I have several coworkers who are really into the 2001-2007 duramaxes. Theirs are the same way, it takes a long time for the oil to get dark. Our running hypothesis is that it's because they are on a short list of diesel engines made with modern common rail fuel injection but very little emissions equipment. 2001-2004 didn't even have EGR.

 

Yes, the metal version screws into the same threads that the small cap at the bottom of the filter holder threads into. Then there's a secondary knurled screw that you manually turning using your thumb and forefinger that opens the valve, thereby letting the oil in the filter housing drain out the attached tube. Here's a link to that tool on Amazon. The pics there should be self explanatory. It's $15 well spent:

$12 Oil Filter Drain Hose Tool for Toyota, Lexus, Scion 2.0L - 5.7L Engines

https://www.amazon.com/Yoursme-Filt...1619980971&sprefix=toyota+oil,aps,227&sr=8-21

 

well, that sucks. I figured it would be on the top like the 4.0.

 

Thanks, Sasquatchian. Does the plastic housing have the threads, or does this require the aluminum housing?

 

Yes, the plastic housing has exactly the same threads as the aluminum one.

 

Thanks. I will order the part you mentioned. Might go for the aluminum part later.

 

REAL COMMON you mean.

 

I never thought it was too bad...other than removing the skid plate each time. At least the filter is right there in the front of the truck.

 

I just looked under and saw what I could do without making a mess. I just used a 5/8 clear hose attached to the plastic piece from Lowe's long enough to drip into the oil drain pan. As for oil splashing out of the drain pan since it is light weight and comes out like water, I used an old rag in the drain pan. The oil box is only 5qts so can't use that. I've changed enough oil on my own not to make a mess.

Get yourself a 3/8 sock bit adapter for your drill to remove the skid plate.. Makes life a lot easier.