Built For the Internet...By the Internet Mall Crawler (AR15xAR10's Build Thread)

Don’t get +1 in the front. I did and it’s wildly unnecessary and rubs on the frame from the extra slack. Just stick with stock length and get SS. +4 is solid in the rear.

 

You dont think you’ll need that +1” with your new setup?

 

It comes with new brake lines. All LT kits do as far as I know.

 

Hmm...did not consider this.


Thank you for the help Randy

 

Just did a service at 103k

Throttle body cleaning
Air filter cleaning
MAF cleaning
New spark plugs

 

So I am amassing a list of shit I need, and shit I need to do.

presently, i believe my driver’s side rear wheel bearing has gone out.

so, this year I would like to do the following

Inspect and or replace rear wheel bearings, o rings and axle seals
Replace radiator with an aluminum AFE Power radiator
Replace front calipers with rebuild black painted napa calipers OR upgrade to 5th gen 4runner calipers and rotors
Crown performance stainless braided brake lines
New rear shocks
New front coilovers
Underbody lighting
Bed lighting
Aftermarket wiring management (fuse box etc.)
Window tint
Different front seats

 

Washer
Product ID: 90208-44001
Drive Axle Shaft Seal (Left, Right, Rear)
Product ID: 90310-58003

Bearing O-Ring
Product ID: 90301-A0005

Bolt Serration
Product ID: 90114-A0009

Strut Mount Nut
Product ID: 90178-A0052

Backing Plate
Product ID: 47044-04030

Backing Plate
Product ID: 47043-04030
Remove

 

https://www.vevor.com/products/prof...OE7cQMrQ4r1izeTViHUvHmMdCnxZoE-IaAmg_EALw_wcB

 

Bearings ordered, tool ordered

Ended up getting the bearings from Rockauto:

TIMKEN 512294 - Left
TIMKEN 512295 - Right

and I got the tool from Amazon with prime shipping

 

I'm still waiting for my rebuilt third member from ECGS.

While doing so, I'm shopping for lift parts finally.


I don't want to spend a ton of money on this project, my goal is just to refresh the suspension, and change the drive line angles so I can potentially have a better chance of not destroying any more pinion bearings in the future; if I gain 2-3' of ground clearance in the process, its a win. I just don't want the truck to look too dumpy on 32s. I do not plan on ever going any bigger than a 32. or a skinny 33. I burn through tires way too fast anymore to be running big diggers all the time

When the truck is no longer my primary driver, i'll be more inclinded to add armor and coilovers/shocks with RESIs.

I'm looking at doing either toytec aluma series, bilstein 6112/5160s, OME, or something of the like. I would also like to get some more flex out of the rear. The front will have to stay as is because I want to keep the swaybar for now and I dont plan on being able to swing the $2600+ aluminum front bumper that I want for a long while.

I will definitely need some help from the homies on what all to end up going with @Taco Guy11 @fatfurious2 @EatSleepTacos to name a few




These things are a definite:
Doing Stoptech stock length stainless braided brake lines in the front.
probably ordering the 24" extended braided brake lines for the rear from headstrong offroad.
toytec ubolt flip kit and i'll modify it to allow me to use my sumosprings with it

I already have high clearance UCAs, new LCAs, new sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings so i'm good on that.

 

STOP TECH 95044007

$52 StopTech 950.44007 StopTech Stainless Steel Front Brake lines for 95-07 Toyota 4 Runner

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0136U9JJS?_encoding=UTF8

https://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p127/24%22_SS_Extended_Length_Rear_Brake_Lines_%28PAIR%29_-_05__Tacoma.html

 

I’m unsure if i should just do dakars or a different kind of leaf pack. I know i dont want to mess with AALs AT ALL. I’d rather swap in a full leaf pack. But i’m worried the medium duty dakars will be too much lift for what I want to do. They claim 2.75” over stock, which would probably be too much for what I want to do and the tire sizes i plan to stick around. I do have some constant weight on the rear end, but its probably less than 300lbs

 

Just happened to come across this post. I see you said you want to keep the sway bar. If you go with 6112s and 5160s I highly recommend ditching the sway bar. I ran the rebranded 6112s (2015 TRD pro lift) and taking the sway bar off was amazing. Ride quality was so much better as it allowed the front to actually be independent but the 6112s were stiff enough that it felt completely safe even during spirited driving.

 

Checkout the icon rxt. I like them wayyyyy better than my dakars and they’re on the lower end of the lift spectrum. I have mine on option 2 and am at 1.75” lift.

Edit: option 1 would be perfect for you and you can find the leafs on Amazon of all places because they’re out of stock a lot of other places.

 

Do they really come with the parts to change them to all three settings? For $1000 they seem like a great bang for the buck.

Did they come with poly bushings or should i worry about doing that later?

 

I completely understand why you would say that, but i’m far too spirited for the no sway bar life

 

They come with rubber bushings so zero maintenance on them and they come when new u bolts too. And yeah they come with everything to choose between the three options.

 

Ayyyyye. Sounds like the way to go then.

I doubt i’ll need the front diff drop, because I dont think i’ll even do the full 3” lift in the front. But, i’ll probably do the carrier bearing drop just to be safe. You think axle shims might also be a good idea?

 

Icon Vehicle Dynamics 2005-2021 Compatible with toyota Tacoma Multi Rate Rxt Leaf Spring With Add In Leaf 158505

$319 ICON Multi Rate RXT Leaf Spring Pack w/Add in Leaf, Compatible with 2005-Up Toyota Tacoma, 158505

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0917SK1ZT

 

Honestly my driveline angles are beautiful when the truck is rolling down the road or sitting static. My guess is, that when i’m towing, flexing offroad, or when I stomp on the pedal, i’m getting axle wrap thats causing the excessive wear on the pinion bearings. So my goal is to completely change the whole setup, in hopes to not smoke another pinion bearing in 50-60k miles or less