3rd-Gen Tacoma OEM Mic Adapter

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Question: Does this boost the mic’s existing signal or does it send additional power to the OEM mic?

 

The 3rd-gen Tacoma telephone/microphone module consists of an internal microphone and internal solid-state amplifier. The Tombit 3rd-Gen Tacoma Mic Adapter is designed to fill the roles the OEM head unit was designed to fill with regard to the telephone/microphone module, which are 1) supply power to the telephone/microphone module's internal amplifier and 2) interface with the telephone/microphone module's internal amplifier's signal lines (which carry the amplified mic signal.)

With the Tombit 3rd-Gen Tacoma Mic Adapter installed, the telephone/microphone module assembly is none-the-wiser to its new power supply/audio signal stealing overlord and performs the same function of processing/amplifying the mic signal as it did when it was connected to the OEM head unit. As such, there's no need for the adapter to process/amplify the output signal further so what you're getting out of the Tombit 3rd-Gen Tacoma Mic Adapter's mic cable (the orange tip/sleeve jack mono 3.5mm cable) is an unaltered mic-level signal, which can be fed into your aftermarket head unit.

One other thing to note - the Tacoma telephone/microphone module has an additional signal line that the mic adapter does not interface with as this is a 5VDC logic level (logic HIGH when audio above a certain dB threshold is detected) signal that was only used by the OEM head unit (I'm not privy to the inner workings of the OEM head unit software so I can only speculate, but I'm guessing this was intended to be used for the detection of noise in the cabin, voices talking, etc.) Regardless, since this signal line is not used by aftermarket head units, the adapter does not interface with it and it's left to float at whatever logic level it pleases.

-Tom

 

Just saw this, @lapoltba...Were you able to get an order through?

 

Awesome! Thanks for the response. I was worried about sending additional power to the OEM mic in case it would fry it or something.

Do you know which (or some that you’ve tested the system with) head units (Brand/Model) work with your system? I was looking at pictures of the back of head units on Crutchfield to try to figure out which ones had the correct fuse, but it wasn’t a terribly successful endeavor.

 

@IndyTac, there are so many head units out there that I haven't had time to review them and build a list of compatible units. The head unit I did most of my testing with during the development of the adapter is the Joying US-JY-TO160N4GS-1 so I can say without a doubt that it works with that one. For the first version of this adapter I chose to go with an ATC/ATO fuse type power interface simply because that's the most common fuse type I've seen used in head units that I've installed over the years and that happened to be the fuse type of the Joying unit I was installing. With that said, I understand there are head units that utilize the mini fuse, low-profile mini fuse and inline glass fuses (think Bussmann/Littlefuse.) I plan to release versions of the adapter that support these various other fuse types as well as another version of the adapter that will support supplying power from a power source other than the head unit's fuse socket. I'll keep folks posted here for when these are expected to be available for purchase.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

-Tom

 

Extending the add-a-fuse to the in-cab fuse box should not present a problem for most people attempting to install an aftermarket head unit. Cut, strip, use butt connectors or posi-lock, extend the length with some properly sized wire, wrap with tape or loom, route under the dashboard, pop off fuse cover, remove any fuse which is ignition switched (poutlet1 or poutlet2 are easy choices) and install the add-a-fuse.

I was going to go that route at first for seat heat but wound up poaching off the trailer brake controller + a high current relay + 8 circuit compact fuse block for ignition switched power.

NOTE: The maestro uses the same fuse style as this so any aftermarket head unit using a maestro should have plug and play install capability regardless of the head unit selection.

 

If you desire full plug-and-play, a second T harness for power and ground would make sense to me, but that adds cost. You might need to differentiate that by JBL yes/no and/or eTune3 vs eTune2 but if you used a cheap JST connector you could have the power T selection independent from the rest of the product.

I plan to do that myself (2 pin connector to supply power and ground off my under-cupholder compact fuse block, though if you used 18 gauge for either I'll use an 090IIU connector instead of JST since those get tight past 20 gauge)

 

Yeah, all set. Thanks for checking. I called my bank and straightened them out.

 

That’s good to know. I ordered before paying attention to the fuse - if it was wrong I’d just chop it and change it

good to know I don’t gotta do that

I just gotta tear my dash apart.. again. It was bad until I put the 3PAM on.. now it kinda sucks

 

If you want a T I can hook you upski. I have a full gallon ziploc bag stuffed full of 090IIU. Hit me up G-man.

If I could just leave my climate controls disconnected I would, easier access to the wires and lsp that way, but the truck gets cranky without them. Maybe I just need to cut off the tab a bit and drill some holes so I can pull it out without disrupting the other trim panels...

 

I did the same. Haha

 

Hello, I received my Tombit 3rd-Gen Tacoma OEM Mic Adapter in this morning's mail. This was quite a nice addition because a month ago I installed in my 2017 TRD Sport Access Cab 4x4 a Sony High Power XAV-AX7000 head unit and all new Kicker speakers including the Kicker/Subaru dash tweeters, and wanted to make use of as many of the factory inputs as possible. SiriusXM is very important, so instead of using the ugly magnetic external antenna I sprang for the extra 20 or so bucks to get the Metra adapter that connects to the standard add on SiriusXM receiver on one end and connects to the factory lead to the shark fin SiriusXM antenna. Also the USB port adapter (for USB 2 on the Sony) to make use of the dashboard USB port, and now this awesome Tombit adapter to make use of the factory microphone so no need to have the ugly stick on mic in front of the gauge cluster. So as of a bit ago, the only thing that isn't factory is the Sony's USB 1 port (used for Apple CarPlay and Android Auto), but even there I was able to buy and mount one of those under dash USB extensions and use a fabric covered fairly rigid USB to Lightning cable, so I can live with that. (The Sony doesn't have wireless CarPlay, and even if It did I'd not use it because obviously it doesnt charge the iPhone, rather it drains it).

Now, before ordering, I could have swore the Sony used for its built in fuse an ATC type wide fuse. No dice. It uses a mini fuse. So I went to O'Reilly and purchased a Mini Add-A-Circuit fuse tap part number DFHM0200ZP and chopped the red wire on the Tombit to remove the ATC fuse tap and butted this new mini one on. Now, a couple issues here, (and I hereby accept responsibility for specifically not following the Tombit instructions to NOT do this, it's all on me) but the mini tap a fuse has thinner gauge wire than the one that comes with the Tombit and also the instructions say not to use it in a fuse socket exceeding 10 amps. Well, the Sony's fuse socket is rated at 15 amps and had a 15 amp mini fuse in it. So, out of an abundance of caution I installed in the mini tap a fuse a 10 amp fuse to replace the Sony's factory installed 15, and also had to use a 3 amp on the Tombit splice since 2 amp fuses aren't readily available for the mini fuses, and the part from O'Reilly included the 3 amp anyway (and the 10 amp as well).

So, everything works. The microphone works, Siri could hear me loud and clear. Phone calls were of the same quality as the Sony provided mic I'd been running since install. Knock on wood everything is a go.

Now the main concern I have is that downgrading the Sony's internal fuse from 15 to 10 amps may blow that sucker. There is a Pearl Jam song on my iPhone that is quite high volume and is decoded in Apple lossless that once caused the Sony to go into some type of software based shutdown after jamming the song at near max levels for some time. It was either Corduroy or Better Man. Anyway, I'll try playing those songs at high volume and see if I can get that software shut down to occur, and hopefully the extra current doesn't blow that 10 amp fuse (maybe the software shutdown occurs before the hardware fuse comes into play?) I used to replace the factory 15. If it does I may need to risk it and put a 15 in the tap a fuse, but as long as the 10 doesn't blow I'm sticking with it. Will report back if any issues arise.

Oh, and one other small modification, the wire plug for where the main harness for the Sony plugs in had a tab that goes over the fuse. With the tap a fuse, the cover would have made it so you couldn't have the harness and the tap a fuse installed simultaneously. So I snipped the tab off with linesman pliers.

 

Oh man, very interested in a 2nd gen version. I was pretty heartbroken when I saw in the FAQ that 2nd gen isn't supported. I'm planning on ordering a Joying head unit here soon and was hoping something like this would be available.

 

Anyone try this in a 2021? Looks like it's a different connector than the factory harness.

 

Thanks for feedback, analysis and pictures, @grizzled1972! Much appreciated!

 

Not a 2021, but I'll be installing this in my 2020 tonight. I'll give you a heads up if I run into anything on that model.

 

Awesome, thanks! I know he said on his site that the 19-21 models haven't been tested and I gambled on it

 

I spent a good bit of time digging through TechStream wiring diagrams last night and I can confirm the adapter does NOT work with Tacoma model years 2020 and 2021 (I assumed this was the case because Toyota 1) needed to develop a head unit that didn't suck (thanks Entune) and 2) provide a head unit that finally supported Android Auto and CarPlay.) Unfortunately, with the new OEM head unit they also redesigned the radio and display receiver harness.

Anyone who purchased an adapter for a 2020/2021 Tacoma, please reach out to me via the Tombit.com Contact Us form and I'll get you setup with a free return/full refund.

In the meantime, I'll do some R&D to see what it'll take to make a compatible adapter for the 2020/2021 model year trucks.

Also, for anyone who purchased an adapter and is planning to install it into a 2019 Tacoma, if you wouldn't mind reporting back on how it goes, it'd be much appreciated. According the wiring diagrams, the 2019 has the same radio and display receiver harness as the 2016/17/18 model years.

-Tom

 

Awesome Tom, thank you! Sadly I'll have to return the kit and wait for a new version. Awaiting your response from the site.