TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

No cam gears yet, should be done this week or next. Tone from the tail pipe is good, no issues. Yes it only happens when I take off in 1st and rev it higher then normal (say I’m trying to get ahead of the person next to me in traffic) or when I’m already in first punch it to shift to 2nd and rev it higher than normal. I’d say it’s a buzzing. Very loud, very annoying. As far as I can tell no exhaust leaks, but I’ll double check.

 

I just installed my URD long tubes and have a horrible sound at acceleration. It's coming from the passenger side, however, I think mine is a manifold leak, I think I have to remove it and adjust the gasket.

 

I can't help you on the software side of things, but without having HPTuners I can still help given you put in a little effort on your end and have access to some tools. I need to know what the truck is doing and when, as well as the short and long term fuel trims.

 

I personally consider exhaust as a perishable item type of mod so you either go with aluminized steel (to keep the cost down) or if you want some additional life out of it, stainless or a mix of the two items in certain sections. Anything more and you are just wasting money on an item that will be destroyed from the inside out.

Titanium is the ultimate obviously, but to get something like that you are talking several thousands just on materials. Factor in the shops labor time and specialty tools like a mandrel bender and you are in the hole quite deep, but bragging rights.

 

Especially on an off roader. If he’s going to bash the exhaust on rocks then stainless would get expensive to replace. Headers and Y would be stainless for me and from there just mild.

 

Unless you spend a copious amount of time up in Tahoe during winter on their treated roads....if it ever dumps snow again..... i would save the $$$ and go with a coated/treated AL'ized piping.

I have to r&r my urd ypipe for the stock ypipe every 2years. I dont think vbands where the flanges are would make bolting them on/off much faster. Unless you're bolting a part on/off frequently, I dont see the benefits of a vband in our exhaust....unless you're doing all the welding yourself.

In your planned setup, the black widow muffler will determine the sound. The shorties wont change the exhaust sound much (lower/throatier) because it retains the stock cats. I dont think the 3" merge will make much acoustically change either. In your scenario, the size of your BW muffler (sm/med/lg) will determine rasp, loudness, etc and whether youll need a resonator.

All this is my humble experienced opinion. im running DT shorties, urd y-pipe, and like a 24"L 2.5" non chambered muffler. No resonator. At WOT, the exhaust isnt that loud in the cab. The blower whine is loud.

 

I'm running URD long tubes, URD y-pipe, and TRD cat back with a resonator. I have some gnarly rasp coming from the same location, under the passenger. Could be exhaust leak. Probably is, and some rasp from the URD Y. I plan on running a keg after I get the JFR Y-pipe.

 

Probably the longtubes too. The best sounding setup I've had was DT shorties with URD ypipe and TRD catback. Best sound as far as exhaust tone IMO and never had any rasp. Not too loud but still throaty for a v6

 

I had a very small buzzing/rasp/vibration with the previous setup. Same as above except I had DT shorties-vibrant high flow cats and my intake was a AFE pro dry s. I thought it was coming from the heat shield although no part of it was loose. Now with my new setup up, it’s down right awful. In terms of the vibration/buzzing. I’ll have my mechanic double check the manifold arp bolts since my truck is there getting regeared. Side note totally different subject.......I’ve been watching YouTube Tacoma videos on LS swaps. Never realized how nicely those motors fit and with ease.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I do have the HPTuner installed and have worked back and forth with Justin who has been extremely helpful with initial tune and willingness to help tighten everything up. The problem in question seems to be repeatable, and relatively recent long-after our tuning sessions, therefore I believe I have something mechanical. Maybe Leaky injector? Cam angle sensor on the way out? no CEL’s so that doesn’t help either.
Here’s a vid of the scenario. Outside of this, I’ve noticed what seems to be some timing retardation intermittently during highway driving. Throttle and boost but all I see is rich AFR and no throttle response.

https://youtu.be/UAfGm8aSr94

 

Have you checked your bypass valve? Are you building boost?

 

Just outta curiosity what is your voltage and how do your terminals look? I had something similar but it was when I installed my ported throttle body and the rpms dropped below 500 at idle when warmed up. Another time when a similar issue was comparable was a friends bad battery/alternator

 

How many miles on the truck? How many on the kit with those injectors, and what flow rate are they?

Have you upgraded the fuel pump?

Have you checked the vacuum port on the s/c cap that? The cap that the TRD logo is on, or that the aftercooler is bolted to.

Like Lucario Runner asked, was your battery recently messed with?

Have you checked for any other vacuum leaks?

Did you have the SAIS system "temporarily muted"?

 

1. Fuel Pump is AEM 340 and went in when the supercharger was installed at approximately 50K miles. I'm now at 95K. It's the Magnuson version, and came with the orange injectors, which haven't been touched since the install. The truck has progressively become slower over time and despite a 307WHP dyno run it is rather lackluster throttle performance, and has even picked up some pinging (which Justin helped tune out audibly, though I believe may be why it sometimes retards the timing?) Spark plugs were just recently changed about 5K miles ago, even went a step cooler.
2. I have visually inspected and even sprayed brake clean everywhere assuming there may be a vacuum leak. No change in idle.
3. Battery was recently replaced, but this was happening prior to the replacement. I will inspect the terminals for tightness. There was corrosion from previous battery, which was cleaned prior to installation of the new unit.
4. all SAIS components are in place and running.

 

Not sure what to check on the bypass specifically, but the jet is still in the line last I checked (5K ago) and everything on bypass was in tact.

vehicle builds boost at higher throttle percentages, but I'm usually cruising around out of boost (or at least that's what my gauge is saying). I've done some pulls with consistent throttle to confirm bleed and there is no indication of that at full throttle.

 

Is your inter cooler pump still running?

 

Have u changed out the spark plugs?

 

Wouldn't hurt to pull the intercooler lid on the blower and see if the foam gasket has fell off and stuck somewhere in there

 

I'll double check as I had that off to replace the spark plugs, but did make it a point to make sure the seals were all in place and looking good.

 

Also check the passenger side spark plugs.

When @JustDSM helped, did y'all notice any strange knock on the data logs? Were y'all able to see anything with fuel trims, timing retardation, or VVTi anomalies?