Long Travel BS Thread

I’m also the cost of coil overs away from it haha. Next will likely be a 4 link in a few years. This was my attempt to ditch low shackle hangers, smooth the rear out a bit and try to squeak out a little more travel while I was already torn apart for the axle swap. And would have only cost about $200 all said and done if I didn’t have the supercharger and wanted to put power to the ground lol.

 

I run the ruffstuff HD setup and it has worked amazing. I used to break driveshafts and ujoints like crazy. since it I have not changed either in a few years.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2HkQO4BYUr/

 

Good to hear. My only problem with it so far is I ordered it middle of last week and it hasn’t shipped yet. So I probably won’t be participating in the cinders drag races this weekend and will have to take it “easy” and just cruise around some. Which is really fine anyways. Gonna turn some bypass tubes and see if any valving changes will be needed before ordering up shock parts since the rears are leaking a little anyways

 

It wouldn't also help keep the axle rotation minimal if the mounts are beefed up enough?

 

the panhard will still allow the axle to roll until the rod ends bind. You might see a small difference, but it wouldn’t be predictable or efficient. Using a track bar would be a much simpler supremely more effective solution.

 

Learned somethin new, thanks!

 

How do you like that cb - is it the ranger one you can put on our trucks?

 

Hey guys been a long time since I have used TW really but I have a question. I tried doing some research but could not find a clear answer. I already have a BTF long travel in the front and currently waiting for Tim at DMZ to get the rear LT done. I would like to keep a parking brake if possible especially if I can reuse the foot pedal. Is there any way to do this even if it would be some sort of line lock solution im all ears. Im sure I will have more questions about alignment/steering coming up shortly. TIA

 

I believe the dmz and most sua kits retain the parking brake. Even some of the linked trucks I’ve seen have them still.

Only reason why you couldn’t is if it gets too tight at droop and can’t handle the range of travel.

 

Oh for some reason I heard that it couldn't be retained but then again heard it from someone else and never talked to tim about it. he is busy and didnt want to bother him but now I look like an idiot! Thanks!

 

Think I just didn’t use one of the clamping points on both sides to keep enough slack on the cables on my truck.

 

Yep you are fine. Only reason you’d lose the parking brake is if you swapped axles or something. The brake line is plenty long to retain function and like @Airdog said you just might have to move the clamp around or ditch one of them. But if they are doing the work for you it will all be taken care of. And congrats on the jump to Lt

 

Yeah id love to do the work but no time or space right now. Thanks its been a learning experience!

 

I have had good luck with it. I have the Inland Empire one on my spare and it has been good also. For it to sit at the correct angle had to make wedge shims though.

 

Thanks for the rack Tanner!

Nice to meet you, and awesome truck!

 

Yea no problem man!! It was great meeting you too! Good luck on the build!

 

When running bypasses up front do most of you get rid of the hydrobump or try and retain it? Picked up some camburg bypass hoops and one of the gusset tabs interferes with my bump mount/bump itself. Maybe remove and go with shaft bumps?

 

Pics? Probably would be just easier to cut out the gusset and add one somewhere else.

 

I can try once im back home but i have not cleared the inner fenders yet so they will look odd

 

bypasses have an bump zone so you could get away without. Most guys run hydros too but I guess it all depends on packaging.