Headlight connectors (one pair)

One pair of H9 or sidemarker connectors. The H9’s match your OEM ones as close as I am able to do. The sidemarker caps are a generic equivalent to keep costs down since we do not need to use terminals.

H9 Connectors
Sidemarker Caps

H9:
You will receive two black connectors and two yellow H9 inside plastic pieces. To convert your H11 connectors to support an unmodified H9 bulb, you can replace only the inner plastic portion, changing the green H11 to yellow H9.

If you have a damaged connector you can remove the center plastic, de-pin, replace the connector with the new one, and install the yellow center plastic piece.

These have been tested on my 2016 Tacoma and 2018 Odyssey, both replacing the center plastic and replacing the entire connector.

Photos with Philips H9 bulb (not included) represent the best possible halogen bulb upgrade option for your low beam projectors.





Sidemarker:
You will receive two grey sidemarker caps with plugs. These can be used to provide a waterproof cap on your sidemarker female connector when converting to OEM LED assemblies. The conversion harness does not need the sidemarker connector since the DRL connector provides the parking light signal. These are included with my OEM LED conversion harness but may not be with ones sold elsewhere.

 

$$ sent! Thanks Dave!

 

Just ordered one myself

 

Instructions for replacing just the center plastic portion and leaving your connector.

Or if you prefer the EP:

Tools:

1. Small screwdriver, ideally made in the USA
2. Beer, preferably green

Steps:

1. Identify H11 low beam connector. Hint, it is green and not yellow / beige
2. Using small screwdriver, gently wiggle until the green plastic pice pops out. Cup your hand around the back of the connector while doing this so the cap does not launch into a dark corner of the engine bay.
   
3. Locate green plastic piece and save for later
4. Install unmodified H9 bulb (trim metal tabs prior to installing if you feel you need to or refer to @crashnburn80 ’s video of how to install an H9 bulb inside an H11 housing without metal tab trim using magician hand trick skills.
5. Open beer and toast @Puppypunter.
6. If for some reason you crush 12 green beers and pop all of the beige and green plastic pieces off in a rare moment of total euphoria and then realize you don’t know which is which, refer to the color codes below:
   1. Driver High Beam + is solid white
   2. Driver Low Beam + is solid red
   3. Passenger High Beam + is solid yellow
   4. Passenger Low Beam + is solid blue
   5. All grounds are black with white stripe

NOTE: If you feel like the yellow plastic fits better on the replacement connector than the original H11 connector (as mine did on my 2016) you might want to skip to the post below.

Photos
NOTE: You only need to remove the green plastic in the center of your H11 low beam connectors. Various photos of the yellow/beige H9 connector are purely informational so you can see the differences and observe the orientation of how this center piece is removed. You can leave your H9 high beam connectors/bulbs alone, the stock specs Phillips H9 for high beam which is already the best possible bulb. One very nice result of doing this mod is you only need to carry one type of bulb as a spare and you can even rotate high beam bulbs into low beam spots since the high beams should see significantly lower runtime.








https://youtu.be/FXL8LahHiuI

 

Instructions to de-pin your existing connectors and remove them. This is only necessary if the client plastic does not firmly lock into place or if you have a melted or damaged connector.

Tools:

1. Very small/thin screwdriver, ideally made in the USA
2. Beer, preferably green

Steps:

1. Identify H11 low beam connector. Hint, it is green and not yellow / beige unless you have already swapped the center plastic per the steps above.
2. Follow the steps above to remove the center plastic piece
3. Using an extremely thin screwdriver, probe for the plastic tab on the side which holds the female terminal in place. Wedge the screwdriver into this tab and turn the screwdriver to pull it outward. You can also use the screwdriver as a lever to pry it out against the nose.
4. While performing step 3, with your other hand pull backward on the wire. It should be securely attached to the terminal and a gentle but firm pull should remove the female terminal once the plastic locking tab is retracted. You need to apply the outward force on the retaining tab first, then the backward force on the wire second to release it. This step gets harder with time so it's likely easier to do on a newer truck.
5. Install the new connector. I like to do one side at a time so you don't have to second guess polarity but also keep in mind that halogen bulbs do not care at all about polarity. But, since the low beams are reversed from high beams polarity-wise, if you do wind up installing LED headlights, you'll either want to retain the stock polarity or you'll have to modify your conversion harness to switch it out to match. This is a non-issue if you're keeping halogen headlights for the life of the truck.
6. Reinstall yellow center plastic piece per the directions above.
7. Open beer and toast @Puppypunter.
8. If for some reason you crush 12 green beers and pop all of the beige and green plastic pieces off in a rare moment of total euphoria and then realize you don’t know which is which, refer to the color codes below:
   1. Driver High Beam + is solid white
   2. Driver Low Beam + is solid red
   3. Passenger High Beam + is solid yellow
   4. Passenger Low Beam + is solid blue
   5. All grounds are black with white stripe

 

I just modified the form to also allow purchasing one pair of sidemarker caps for the OEM LED headlight conversion harness if you bought a harness which does not come with sidemarker caps.

Photo of those below: