Lift kit question…??

Hey guys, just a quick question before I tear down this front end… I’m going to be installing the Eibach 2.0 coil over kit on my 2020 Sport 4WD. I’m going to have it set around 2.5” of front lift. Also installing new Camburg UCA’s at same time. My question is: Will I need to replace the brake lines? I know it’s a good thing to do, with a set of stainless. But I didn’t feel like getting into that at the moment beings I only have 5k miles on the truck. Just didn’t want to over stretch them. Truck is just a pavement princess, no serious off-roading.

thanks guys, Mike

 

Wow… longest any post I’ve ever made has gone without support…

 

No, you should be good. I didn’t need to with my 3” lift. Good luck during your instal. Are you pulling those UCA bolts or cutting? How about the Replacing the needle bearing?

 

I was just going to pull the bolts… beings truck is so new, didn’t think they’d be much problem. And I did grab the ECGS bushing. Local guy here in MD has offered to let me borrow his removal tool and install tool. I just want to get it all done in one fell swoop… so want to make sure I have every part ready and any issue covered! Thanks for the reply!

 

Nice, is it @RobP62? I pulled the bolts when I put on SPC uppers. I didn’t want or have the means to cut them lol. Good luck with the install!

 

No

Pulling the bolt is super easy, just use some channel locks and bend the fender out of the way, when done bend it back.

 

Pulling them has nothing to do with them being new. Gotta bend some sheet metal to get them out without cutting. If you cut and get new bolts you can put them in from the opposite side. No problem.

FWIW i bent mine with some sheet metal pliers.

 

Having lost an UCA nut, I'll never put a bolt in backwards

 

Interesting. That never even occurred to me. I put mine in the same way they came out since i had already bent the metal but you’re right if you lost a nut you could lose the UCA bolt…. That’d be a bad day. Good call.

 

Did not know that. I figured they would just pull right out. How much and where do I need to bend the fender? Def not trying to f-up my paint by any means!

 

ummm. It’s kinda tough to tell you the answer to this. You need to bend the metal out of the way where the bolt hits it. It’ll be very obvious. It’s not visible anywhere, just bend and hammer it out of the way. No biggie. No one will ever see it.

 

Good deal!

 

There is always "that guy" and I guess I drew the short straw. I was out camping and wheeling the dunes over a weekend and everything seemed fine. Drove home, unloaded and parked the truck. Next morning I go to back the truck out of the garage and I hear an alarming *clang* I started to troubleshoot and noticed it was consistent if I rocked the truck back and forth quickly between D and R *clang* *clang* *clang*. Asked the wife to jump in so I could look for the sound and noticed it instantly when I looked in the wheel, the whole UCA and spindle was pivoting/rocking back and forth with the truck just chillin on this open bolt. Added some threadlocker this time around and so far so good.

 

Some trucks are worse than others. I had to pull quite a bit on mine and still ended up grinding down the washer/flange part on the head of the bolt to get it out.

 

Either you get lucky or I got unlucky.. lets just say there is a range of experiences for UCA bolts.


Mine were ramming into the body sheet metal that supports the battery area even after that thin fender sheet metal was bent out. Passenger side was about the same fun.

Just be ready in case you get a fight. Cut off a little piece of sheet metal and duck tape the back side, helps the bolt flange slide a little better. Have a wooden dowel also, cut into several different lengths. That is the only way I could beat those damn things out.. and back in, one millimeter at a time. Actually a crow bar on the passenger side was the trick, only thing heavy and skinny enough to swing without smashing the tubing around it. I think it was like 45min each coming out and at least as long going back in, with some figuring shit out time to get the right combination of things listed above to get them moving as they hung up a lot.





I thought about cutting and putting in backward (and staking the threads) but the driver side has brake lines mounted to the frame in the way.


PS. use the cable with 2 chokers on the end trick for the CV axle, loop the middle through a shackle and drop that on the handle of a good 3lb+ hammer. Then swing away, about 1 minute vs beating on it awkwardly while laying under the truck forever with no progress. (just stop swinging once it pops out a little)

 

Unlucky. I’ve done about 6 trucks now and all super easy. Funny story, my buddy, who will remain nameless couldn’t get the bolt out after spending like an hour on that sheet metal. I come over and have the bolt out in about 30 seconds.

 

I know a guy that lost the nut to that bolt on the trails. So yeah, it can, and does happen.