The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

I have mine on my Prinsu rack

 

Where did you run your wires? Im debating going windshield or some other root.

 

I would imagine using the now pointless rear, cab mounted 3rd brake light as a route into the cab.

 

I did 3-4 weeks on stock suspension on the trip home from PDX, plenty of fire roads. No real issues, except you can feel the weight of the camper and gear really compress the rear suspension on abrupt slow speed bumps - like ledges, cross ditches, or tall speedbumps in parking lots. Could also feel it on g-outs/compressions on the freeway. Since I now have to carry my dual sport moto on a hitch rack I went to Deaver who added 2 custom leafs to support an extra 1000 lbs. Interestingly I still feel the rear compress on the same abrupt bumps, though not as bad. The truck rides very nicely when empty as well, and I can barely tell the moto is loaded while driving. If it were just standard camping gear and no moto I'd still go with one added leaf.

I got two Renogy 100W panels as well and put them up front on the roof. I ran the cables around the front of the overhang and underneath, using the T-rail to mount them. I looked into using the port under the overhang but the two cables didn't fit very well through it, and not at all with plastic split loom wire covering. Didn't want to run cables through without protection so I ran them down the camper instead and in through the gap between the bed rail and the camper. There are no sharp edges there and room for solar cables plus charging cables from the alternator. My charge controller uses both. Once cables were run through I stuff the gap with butyl rubber to prevent dust and water from getting in.

One thing to note with the Renogy panels, if you haven't ordered them already. The cable leads exit the panels in opposite directions which makes it a pain to hook everything up unless you run them in series. You can see a pic of mine a few pages back.

 

Yeah I ran it down the windshield gutter down to the engine bay and then into the cab.

 

By any chance do you have the part numbers for the t slot wire holders you used? I’ve been meaning to ask you but kept forgetting lol! I think it looks cleaner than the zip tie mounts I’m using at the moment.

 

This is the hardware I used for the T-slots. https://www.mcmaster.com/5537T271/ It fits pretty well but I do notice the nuts can rotate sideways out of the slot if you need to loosen them for any reason. A bit of a pain but shouldn't be an issue once the install is finished.

For cable clamps I went to Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/0-75-in...ERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-202875639-_-N&

I think it was the 3/8" size I used on the single solar cable within the split wire loom covers, then 1/2" to hold the branch connectors and other wider plastic bits, and two cables together. Not 100% on the size, could have been 1/2" and 5/8". And it may have been 3/4" where the dual wires went underneath the overhang. I should mention the holes in the cable clamps were too small to fit the M8 bolts for the T-nuts through them - I had to take a dremel to them to widen the holes. A bit of a pain, but consistent with what I had to do throughout the build to get stuff to work. In this case all the hardware that seemed to work on the T-slots was too big for the cable clamps.

My main concern in putting it together this way was I didn't want the cables flapping around in the wind, since they are exposed up there while driving. Using those T-nuts and clamps in the split loom holds everything very stable.

Here's a better shot than what I posted earlier:

 

Are your Renogy panels the flex or solid panels? Thx

 

Flexible. Needed those for low profile since clearance under garage door is limited.

 

Awesome! Thank you sir

 

Can you shoot a picture of this cable port hole on the inside of the camper? Mine doesn’t have this.

 

Nice work sir. What did you make the frame for the panels with? I guess it might be aluminum angle, which would be easy to cut and form as you have, but it looks white so I can't tell.

 

I based it on the video below, with some modifications. I'd read lack of insulation can reduce the lifespan of flexible panels so I liked the method used here that sandwiched a plastic sheet below the panel to provide insulation and airflow. The vid shows polycarbonate sheet but it was 4x the price of coroplast, which I used instead. I trimmed the lattice cap and used bolts from HD to mount it to the T-track through the grommets in the solar panels. The two issues I had were the middle grommets on the two Renogy panels not lining up (not placed in the same spot on each panel) and finding bolts that fit through the grommets but had a wide enough head to fit the T-slot. The lattice was very easy to work with and cut with a dremel blade, and is quite solid. The edges of the panel and coroplast slide into the groove so there is nothing for the wind to grab.

Parts I used were:
T-track -

$49 Lot 4 Each, 48" Aluminum T Track 3/4" by 3/8" Slot, Accepts 1/4" Hex Bolts, 1/4" or 5/16" T Bolts, Countersunk Holes Every 6" 112134

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NS8LDD
Vinyl lattice - https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-White-Vinyl-Lattice-Cap-2-Pack-73004694/206812875
Double sided lattice - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-4-ft-White-Vinyl-Lattice-Divider-Moulding-73004066/310535927
Coroplast sheet - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coropla...te-Corrugated-Plastic-Sheet-CP4896S/205351385
The hardware was all from HD.

 

When I had my old shell they just used a fat amount of silicone then put it on and never had issues. may do it with my X1.

 

There is a small grommet on the lower back of the cab you can pop out make a hole and put back. I used it to run a rear camera and will use to route my weboost.

 

Nice I was planning on using similar clamps. Jerry rigged mine for the time being. Used commercial Velcro on mine and need to clean up the wiring. Ended up going with Sunpower panels.

 

For those of you that have a Prinsu rack, when did you trim your rack for the camper? Before, or did you have an opportunity to do it there during install?

 

You should do it before. we modified it some while I was there but it takes awhile.

what were you doing chop or trim lower? I trimmed but on my trip I had to do some more. The bed flexes a lot when off road. Like I trimming a bit more near the front. It should be 1-1.5” of free forward space or it will hit. Downward you need 1.5” or so. I have 1.25 and it was tapping on some back roads.

 

This is exactly what I was needing to know. Thanks. I'll start with 1.5" clearance all around then.

Mind shooting me a picture or measurement of how far forward on your rack you cut? I got dimensions for the camper from Josh at SP.. but some hard measurements from back of your rack to your cut would be super handy!

Edit: and you have stock bedrails or aftermarket?

 

Stock bedrails. Sure I’ll grab some in the morning. I got measurements too but it was too hard.