2015 tacoma getting stuck in 4x4

guys, i have a 2015 tacoma 4x4, with 77k on it. As of recent when you put it in 4x4 it goes in fine but does not wanna come out. the 4x4 light will blink and i hear the clicking noise from the glove compartment. It would come out after going in reverse a few times, but as of late nothing. i had to disconnect the battery, reconnect and it was out of 4x4. i changed all the diff fluids, transfer case and rear, and cleaned the connectors with electro parts cleaner....whats next?? the front diff accuator? im leaning towards that...thanks for any help

 

Usually if you just turn the truck off put it in 2-high and then start the truck that’ll resolve that issue, yes it is your actuator usually

 

ive done the off back on with the key and it was still in 4x4.....disconnected battery for few mins and that did the trick twice, and what accuator brand do u guys recommend? ive seen a decent one on Amazon for $175 AISIN

$172 SAT-017 OE Replacement Differential Lock Actuator

SAT-017 OE , AND WHAT GASKET maker do u reccomend? thanks

 

Look under your truck and tell us if you see any rust. A pic or 2 would be better.

 

my trucks under body is in great shape, never really off roaded at all, i just had the service done at toyota where they coating the frame for corrosion, like a recalll, they said frame looked good.

 

Your at the point where you need to pull the actuator and test it on your work bench.

 

had planned on it, but also do not wanna waste time, was gonna replace no matter what, i read they get gummed up and bad solder connection, hate to even ask, can i drive the truck with the accuator removed?

 

Hundreds of guys have this problem with the crap 4x4 system in these trucks.

 

ive read that, my dads 1990 sr5 with lock in lock out hubs worked fine at 352k........so im leaning towards just replacing the front diff accuator next????

 

If you feel like fixing instead of replacing, here’s some good info.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-trouble-shoot-4x4-actuator.263525/

 

I am not sure its the system 100% of the time. Often it is owners not following instructions.

The system is ment to be engaged and disengaged at least once a month.

Both 4hi and 4lo





I understand its a bad system, but not following simple instructions will lead to things not working.




I have a 2015 and my 4wd system always worked, figured it was because I use it almost every weekend.

 

update, i ordered the front diff acuator, but other day i put in 4x4, and now its really not fully disengageing, im hearing and feeling loud clicking noise in right front when i turn 4x4 off...light blinking,,,and relay in dash clicking also.....the front grinding goes away at like 20mph, i've disconnected the battery for a few hours hopefully that does something with the acuator motor.

 

Update, took actuator out, plugged it back in and it moves towards drivers side when I engage 4x4, but when I switch it back to 2wd the arm stays in same spot, and I can hear relay clicking behind dash

 

What condition are your tires (mostly equal tread depth and air pressure) and are they ALL the same brand and model?

Also, try disengaging 4wd on loose gravel. If it works fine on loose gravel then there is likely a bind in the system, likely tires.

 

That tells me you have an issue with the 4wd limit switch in the actuator. Take apart, clean, burnish, rebend (carefully) the wiper arms on the movable end of the switch and add some new lithium grease to the contacts.

 

Update dealer says its transfer case, have never taken it offroad,he said the noise from inside transfer case,but its not the transfer case actuator,want$6k to fix it,I attached printout, I'm not getting that done,they even have ecu on printout, why would 4wd ecu be on there if it was transfer case? I'm gonna just drive in 2wd for now, is there a way to truly make it 2wd? Bypass actuators? So the light still blinking, and at like 15mph and u Der I feel a grinning up front, it feels like front diff but they said transfer case, I did the front diff actuator and same problem, other opinions on troubleshooting? Thanks for any help

 

I can smell that BS from here. Sounds like they want to replace the whole system using the shotgun approach because they cannot accurately diagnose.

 

What should I do next? How can I determined if it is actually the transfer case? The grinding noise only occurs at like 15mph and under then goes away, when in 4wd the noise is gone, I'm about to have a 2wd truck for now

 

Ya, thats just a dealer not properly diagnosing it at all. This is happening more and more now since people aren't being trained properly and doing nothing but warranty work where Toyota will tell them what to replace. It's sad. There are very few diagnostic technicians left, just mechanics throwing parts like monkeys throwing poo at the zoo.

I came across this thread that may be helpful. To me it sounds like it is simply binding between 4H and 2H. Could be a bent shift fork, actuator not moving all the way or something along those lines. Maybe remove the actuator and manually move the fork while rocking the truck back and forth a bit to aid in disengaging.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transfer-case-transfer-cases-in-first-and-2nd-gen-trucks.345652/