Separate key fob and key for 2021 sport M/T

I am trying to figure out if I can use an older lock fob that is separate from the key for my 2021 M/T sport. Been searching Google and this site, but can't seem to find a good answer or much information at all. Was hoping one from a 2016-2017 would work and get a plain h key to go with it. Think this is possible?

 

I suppose that you could. The key has to be a transponder type (chipped) for the engine to start. The programming is very easy with TechStream.


Alternately, @MESO does have a FlipFob:
https://mesocustoms.com/collections/toyota-tacoma-3rd-gen/products/flipfob-tacoma

 

Yeah I'm trying to keep the key separate from the fob. This way I can start the truck, and lock it in the drive way running. I understand that it has to be a transponder key, I suppose I'm more interested in a small fob from previous years tacomas.

 

It has to be an H chip fob. I'd stick with OEM (Denso) since anything aftermarket rarely works.

Edit, the more I think about it, probably won't work. I tried it with getting a spare key (no fob) cut from my OEM key and it wouldn't start even with the original key/fob in the truck. Might have something to do with the fob and proximity to the ignition on the steering column.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324175310979?fits=Year:2016|Model:Tacoma&epid=658734242

 

You have to put the chip next to the ignition barrel. It's close proximity.

 

Hell, I didn't try that, I'll try that tomorrow with the spare cut key and the OEM next to it. May be an easy solution for OP.

 

Very close. I tried an experiment. I had a mechanical key made (no transponder). Then I put it in the ignition while holding a transponder key right beside it. This arrangement flat would not work. A transponder key must actually be inserted into the ignition. (The mechanical key would turn the ignition switch but it wouldn't start the engine.)

 

I just tried it with the spare (no fob) in the ignition and the OEM with the fob right next to it and the truck started. Maybe the fob has to be a certain place above or below the ignition.

 

Good stuff.

Just to level set, this is the transponder chip (RFID type) in the slot of the H keys. It isn't electrically connected or bonded. Just near field stuff.



In the @MESO FlipFob, it is a bit further away.

 

What does your spare key look like? If it's a Toyota key with a black or gray plastic "handle" (but no buttons), it's a non-RKE transponder key. Such a key will run the truck just fine. You just don't have remote locking/unlocking of the doors.

My experiment was with a 100% metal aftermarket key, cut by a locksmith. I tried it with various transponder keys nearby, even in contact with the aftermarket key. No dice.

 

.

.

 

It's a key with black handle and aftermarket and had it cut at the hardware store. Not sure which ones work and don't work, would be interesting to hear what others have experienced.

 

I had the "hardware store experience" (at Lowe's) trying to get a spare key for my Ford Ranger. They had a two-step process. The first step was cutting the key physically. Second step was programming it by somehow copying the coding in my working key. They guaranteed this. It didn't work (they tried twice), so I got a refund. Conclusion: their process is hit-and-miss, at best. It appears that you lucked out. I had to go to a Ford dealer to get a proper spare. It was expensive.

The dealer duplication of a key does not change the coding of the new key. It registers the new key's coding in the truck's ECU. That's why when you go to a dealer to get a duplicate key, they have to have access to your truck. Stores like Lowe's do not; they simply work with your existing key. And, BTW, even if the hardware store key works, it's not a "master." You can't use it to create new keys.

When I needed spare keys for my new Tacoma, I went straight to the Toyota dealer. I wasn't going to waste time and money on half measures.

 

Yeah, after the single key (no fob) I bought an OEM Denso and had the dealer cut and program it.