Anyone tried the Anderson Ford Motorsport MR. Freeze meth injection kit?

I tried searching without any luck. So is anyone currently running one on a Tacoma? Any feedback would be appreciated. I’m thinking of trying it, I thought they quit making them, but evidently they came out with a newer version. Very simple principle, boost pressure pushes the meth/water mix in. No wires, period. Price is a lot more attractive than the other fine tuning kits in my opinion.
https://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/afm-mr-freeze-water-methanol-injection-system-gen-2/

 

Interesting. Very simple design.

What kind of F/I are you using?

 

I’m running the newer version Magnuson supercharger. 3.4 1st gen Tacoma. I noticed they didn’t say anything about roots supercharging, they are aimed towards centrifugals, and turbos. Of course this product is designed for a mustang, and after the pushrod 5.0l, their roots and twin screws are inter-cooled.
And you’re right, it’s a very simple design, sometimes simplicity rules.

 

So a year after creating this thread I decided to go ahead and pull the trigger and purchase the Mr Freeze kit and install it on my truck. I modified it a little bit, and actually like it a lot! I’ll talk about functionality and some positive and negative things about this setup as well, so if anyone else is interested in it. I unfortunately don’t have any tuning information, before/after air fuel numbers…nothing of that nature. I evidently ended up with a unicorn and have no problems with ping or anything without this kit. I purchased this kit more as insurance, and I will occasionally hear detonation after getting some questionable fuel. As long as I get 93-e10 from a busy gas station, no ping whatsoever.
After getting this kit and seeing exactly how it works, I realized it would be so simple to build out of parts from the junkyard or auto parts store. Every component could be easily found at those places and assembled fairly easily. The tank would be the most expensive part of the build, and building a kit like this, I think I would opt to use a radiator degas bottle for the tank, as it has to be pressurized and monitored for fluid level.
One of my modifications to this kit was adding a sight glass to the side of the tank to monitor fluid level, as it only holds 1/2 a gallon.

Mounting location of the tank and nozzle end is very important to pay attention to. This is because if the nozzle end is mounted lower than the tank, with the engine off, the methanol/washer fluid will simply siphon the tank empty into your intake. The instructions take care of this by stating to mount the tank lower than the supercharger/turbo inlet that you choose to tap in at. Our trucks are kinda hard to screw this up because of the roots style supercharger on the top of the engine. On a turbo setup or a centrifugal supercharger set up, this step is very important.
The most negative thing about this kit is the jet system that it comes with. I’m fairly sure the two different sized jets that it comes with is pretty much a mig welder tip, as it looks almost identical to a mig welding tip, just a little shorter, right down to the size wire it’s supposed to be used with. It comes with two sized jets, a 0.020” and a 0.035”. The use of such a simple component isn’t the negative part about it at all. It doesn’t even attempt to atomize the liquid, it’s just a straight continuous stream like what you would expect a water pistol to spray water like. No droplet formation at all.
I ended up making my own jet out of a brass 90 deg fitting and a stand pipe similar to what you would find the main jet of a motorcycle or atv carburetor to look like. I used 1/8” plastic tubing for the pressure line from the tank valve to the jet. My improvised jet at least sprays more than one stream at a smaller rate, providing some mist.
I wasn’t sure how the roots style supercharger would distribute the straight stream of fluid. I think the kenne bell supercharger’s approved this system, so I’m pretty sure it would work, but I didn’t feel comfortable with it. It does kinda seem destructive to spray a straight stream of water/meth into a turbo or centrifugal supercharger impeller that’s spinning 100k+ rpm. At the same time, I’m not really taking into consideration the volume of air that is traveling with this stream of fluid. I’m sure it will break up some before hitting the impellers, but after that, atomization isn’t a factor whatsoever, as the impeller did the job. Just wasn’t sure how well this would be distributed equally to each cylinder of my engine.

Ok, down to functionality. The components are as follows. The tank, heater control valve, check valve, vacuum actuator, tubing, and jets.
The flow control valve is literally a heater control valve found inline with heater core water valves and I will refer to it as a heater control valve, even though it directly controls flow.

Engine running at idle or in vacuum… the check valve prevents vacuum from entering the tank, and vacuum closes the heater control valve preventing primed fluid from moving in the fluid charge tube. No flow of fluid whatsoever.

Engine running in boost, the spring loaded vacuum control valve opens the heater control valve, due to the lack of vacuum, and the presence of boost. The check valve allows boost past it to enter the top of the tank pressurizing the air in the tank on top of the fluid. The fluid then flows through the fluid hose to the nozzle into the atmospheric side of the supercharged system. The more boost, the more flow of fluid as it works linear off of boost pressure. Our trucks, this is anywhere on the air filter side of the throttle plate.

After boost into vacuum. The vacuum control valve closes the heater control valve immediately stopping the flow of fluid. However there is still boost pressure inside the tank due to the closing of the heater control valve and the vacuum check valve. There are small bleed holes to allow boost pressure to vent to atmosphere incorporated in the boost pressure inlet to the tank.
This actually allows two different ways of mechanically tuning this system. The size of the jets, and the size of the boost vents.

Engine off. The spring pressure opens the vacuum actuator opening the heater control valve. Pressures all equalize and no flow of fluid will happen unless the tank is mounted higher than the jet. In that situation the fluid would siphon into the intake, resulting in damage after restarting the engine.

All in all I’m very happy with this install. I think I may add a shutoff valve to use during the winter when the air temps are plenty cold enough for this kit to not be needed at all.