Crashnburn80's Supercharged Gladiator Mojave Build

Stock wheels have less off set, I like the wheel peaking out a bit. Stats for the stock beadlock's let me know what you think. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-1007-DC1785A

 

I think these are the wheels based on the functional specs, Method 313. 17x8.5, BS +25 and lighter than stock at 23.5lbs. Same BS and size as the perfect fitting AEV wheels at a much lighter weight. It moves the wheel out 12.7mm (1/2") more than the stock Mojave wheels or 3/4" more than the Rubicon wheels. Also available in black.
https://www.methodracewheels.com/products/313-gloss-titanium?variant=13607718387773

42lbs for a wheel?! Hard pass, that is absurd. You'll end up at 105lbs a corner for 35s, even running a very light tire. Check out the wheels above, they have a Raptor/150 version with less offset for more poke and you'll save 18.5lbs per corner.

 

Those wheels would look pretty sick

 

Unsure what I think. I like the concept.



They are bright. Aux light 5.2w.


Signal 3w.


The aux light has a lot of up light, seems like it will be almost as blinding as helpful approaching the vehicle from the rear.

Product page:
https://www.oraclelights.com/products/sidetrack

 

Doesn’t do it for me. Maybe on a 50k vehicle. Not on a supercharged w 37’s. Too much like a rice burner.

The light that is.

 

Those wheels in a 16" on a 37 would look absolutely sick af

 

I hear you. I like the side indicator being Gladiator’s indicators are only directly forward and rear, absolutely nothing to the sides, not even a wrap around on the corners. And the side aux/entry light goes with my light project tying under chassis rock lights into the bed lights. I’m also not certain on the tape on application.

Gladiator brakes are larger than the StopTech BBK I put on my Tacoma. They just barely fit under 17s. 16s definitely won’t fit. I think the wheels would look great on a Tacoma. Not sold on the look for a Gladiator which looks less tuner and more military with the boxy design. But function>form, and those Methods check all the right function boxes.

 

Took me a while to find a picture of the 313s in Titanium on a Gladiator. I think that will pair well with the Sting Grey.




Edit: Annnnnd purchased. Paired Methods 15% off sale with 4WP $100 off $1000 sale, plus free shipping. Matching set of 5.

Checks all the boxes
-Minimum required size 17x8.5 for 37s (minimum size is most ideal for airing down, protecting the wheel off road, reduced weight and the keeping tires under the truck)
-Perfect BS of +25, just like AEVs JL/JT specific wheels, only 1/2" less than Mojave stock. A 37x12.5 will sit 1/2" further in than the stock wheels with 35x11.5s. By moving the wheel 1/2" further out it should avoid rubbing issues. AEV claims their 17x8.5 w/ +25 BS will fit a 37 without rubbing.
-Lighter than stock by 0.9lb, despite being wider with less BS
-Flow Formed > cast

 

Awwwww sheit. I'll let my roommate know about the possible Mojave wheels forsale

 

Have you ever heard of any issues with Methods quality? I was under the impression that they were on the lower end. I know their rally wheels for Subaru's kill it.

 

Just got the shipping notice that the ECU is due back tomorrow. So hopefully tomorrow evening it will be up and running!

Most aftermarket wheels are going to be lower quality than stock. I certainly don’t hold Method in high regard, their motto is lighter, stronger, faster. But the majority of their product line is heavier than stock, not lighter. The brand certainly isn’t a high end brand. Those specific wheels are flow formed though and not just basic low pressure cast, so there is a bit more that goes into them than the majority of their product line. Their wheels are made in China, as are most aftermarket and even many OEM, but I haven’t heard of any specific common quality issues on the brand’s products in general.

 

Well, immediately regretted this.



Light output was cool, I like how wide the spread is.


Install requires the removal of the inner fender.


Which requires cutting off single use plastic rivets. So now I need new rivets and a plastic rivet gun.


Only 3 of the rear plastic rivets pass through the fender liner that need to be cut off. The other areas of the liner are notched for clearance.


Need to pry open the fender ‘vent’ with some non-maring tools to run the wiring.


The lights attach using double sided automotive tape. I’m a bit weary on this approach for longevity, I like things that mechanically fasten, but understand why they went this route for this product and location.

After install including cleaning the area with alcohol and making sure it was seated properly, the rear corner tape was separating from the body panel. I held pressure on that area for a while, and that top corner would continue to lift and separate from the body.


I made the difficult decision to pull it and attempt reinstall. Unfortunately the results were the same.



Really not noticeable to most I’m sure, but with the separation water intrusion would wear on the remaining tape and it would only get worse over time. While I really like the concept of this product, the install execution does not meet my bar of OEM like quality. I’ve removed the product from my truck and now need to look into purchasing some plastic rivets and a plastic rivet tool to properly reinstall the fender liner.

 

According to the instructions, the ECU rewrite may take 10 minutes. Mine took 2 seconds and says it skipped writing. Going to email the support line.

 

God dammit. Finish the thing already...

 

It’s alive!

https://youtu.be/35oNAv2BynM

Unsure on the supercharger pump coolant operation. Currently investigating.

Mac for the programming win, running a Windows VM when native Windows failed to complete the task.

 

Further investigation reveals the supercharger pump runs at startup, then shuts off. It is tapped into the Fuel Pump Control Module fuse for activation. Maybe this is normal as I have only done an idle test. Will need to investigate further.

 

Hell ya I didn't break anything!!

 

This blower is impressive. It comes on far sooner and more fiercely than my TRD blower on the 4.0, even though that had a 2.6" pulley. Even feathering the throttle I accidentally spun my 35s. It is almost like trying to drive a turbocharged vehicle with a pedal commander installed. Can't wait for some WOT testing.

Annnd you had to say something. There is an engine coolant leak in the worst place possible, behind the blower. FML. Going to troubleshoot shortly.

 

The heater core exit through the firewall is leaking. Looks like it is missing the hose clamp. FML. The heater core hoses use clips and hose clamps. It seems only the clip was put on when cutting out the OEM clip connector and transferring it to to the new Magnuson supplied hose.

This hose clamp on the cut end should have been transferred from this OEM hose to the new Magnuson supplied hose as well, in addition to the clip end.

 

I love your careful attention to detail on your builds. I do wish that you had a Raptor so I could just copy your build!

I Thought about driving the Gladiator but with it being so close to the Taco I figured the wife would be not psyched on spending money and getting something the same size truck. She is very happy with the Raptor.