RumHam1 Build

2008 TRD OFF-ROAD 4.0L DCSB 4 X 4

SuperPacific Camper
Send It Suspension Billet Upper control arms
WarFab tie rod sleeves
Renogy Dual Battery 100 Ah, 50A DC-DC charger, 1000W inverter
Hest mattress
23zero 270 peregrine awning
200W solar panel

KM3 35x12.5r17 10 ply or Mickey Thompson Baja Boss 35 x 12.5r17 depending on season
SCS F5 bronze with -10 offset 17x8.5
2.5 Extended King Coilovers with Reservoir & Adjusters- 650 lb coils
Kings Rear Shocks w/ Reservoir & Adjusters 2.5 x 12 inch smoothies
Archive Garage shock tower relocation kit
Deaver u402 stage II leaf springs
4.88 Nitro Gears
ARB Front air locker with single compressor
Stoptech 6 piston BBK (front), ST60 calipers
RCI full skids and Sliders w/ exhaust reroute
Bay Area Metal Fab single hoop front bumper
WarFab HC rear bumper
Custom @1108_Fab Rear trailer hitch swing out - with full sized spare
Bay Area Metal Fab rear shock hangers
Smittybilt XRC 9500lb winch with synthetic line
Dirt King stock lower control arms - Lower Ball Joint design
Locked off road 2.5 x 2 inch threaded front hydraulic bumps
Tundra Master Cylinder and brake booster
Cowl intake reroute
CVJ axles - high angle boots
Total Chaos cam tab gussets
Total Chaos Spindle Gussets
U-Bolt flip kit with Archive Bump Stops
Extended Brake Lines
Custom reinforced Bills Englewood 2 piece Driveshaft
Dometic CFX75 Fridge w/ slide
Depo headlights with morimot DS2 ballasts
Diode Dynamics SAE amber fog lights
Diode Dynamics 30 inch light bar
Pioneer 4201 w/ idatalink meastro
Wolfvideo Back up camera/ Mirror and Dash recorder
BlueSea Fuse Panel w/ 100A Breaker
eBay fenders

 

Hey brotha, love the build what are your alignment specs?

I'm getting some rub my JBA UCA on full lock with 315/70/17s with a 17x8.5 -8mm wheel but looks like the wheel specs are relatively the same.

 

I had the same issues, the F5s are -10 17x 8.5 but I had to leave on my 1.25 inch spidertrax spacers on. I rub on my smoothies in the rear when flexed out still with the spacers and they clear the UCA in the front. I had to beat a bunch back to clear but I am only rubbing at full turn now (actually gets better as it gets more articulated lol)

I did the taco tabs that locks in my caster/ camber and I was a bit more on the driver than the passenger (3.2 drive and 2.8 pass) but they were able to get the toe pretty much at 0, camber is also 0.

 

Hmmm.....I have some .75" spacers coming in...I really hope they give me enough clearance. Was also thinking of snagging a set of the taco tabs too just so that alignment doesn't come out of place.

 

I think the .75 inch spacers should be enough to clear the UCAs. I actually haven't even looked to see how close they are since I put them on...

Did you do cam tab gussets? the taco tabs are great but my buddy welded them in a bit off so when I got my alignment it was the opposite of what you want for road crown so actually been thinking of going back to just normal cams again... I did my lowers at the same time so curious if something is slightly out of place but they have been great so far but my alignment still floats around a bit. Kind of been driving me nuts but was hoping to not need another alignment for a bit, I've probably spent $1k easily in alignments over the last couple years....

 

Yeah, I have 1.25 Spidertrax on my T4R but don't want the poke to be as aggressive on the taco. Wanted to get just enough clearance to where I don't rub whenever I'm doing a U-turn

I haven't done any work on the lowers but when I do, I'd probably press some new bushings in and then do the tabs and gussets.

 

I may not have LT but I will still have ~1.5 inch more width than stock haha its hard to get 35s on a mid travel set up without rubbing. I still need to tub a bit above my cab mount as I rub at full turn a bit. Hoping if I can get the caster up a bit on my passenger side it will fix the problem though. How is it at full bump? I had to put in these adjustable locked bumps cause it was terrible lol

 

Haven’t tested at full bump yet! Need to find a flex ramp or something