5VZ-FE

Make sure you replace your knock sensor wire while you are in there.

 

Definitely. I did that recently on my current motor. Both with a new harness. I'll be transferring over a lot of new stuff from my old motor to my rebuilt one.

 

Small update for everyone. Going 0.020" over for pistons, shop said I could do 0.010" if I wanted too since the donor block is in good shape. I went 20 over since its easier for LCE engineering to get forged pistons in that size. Standard size main and rod bearings. Shop should be done with the long block in the next few weeks as far as machining. Then I will be installing the pistons and assembling the rest of the motor. Will likely swap around February-March

 

I am once again going to revive this old-ass thread with my updates. Although most of the members here have probably moved on at this point, Im sure someone in the future might want to know the result of my insanity-fueled venture. After blowing my head gasket from pushing 11-13psi of supercharged boost through a 20yr old motor, I got a donor long block and decided to have it rebuilt with stronger components that would be able to handle boost reliably.

After taking it apart with a buddy, it was sent to L&R in Santa Fe Springs, CA to have everything machined and checked for cracks/issues. I also had them install my new valve train kit from LCE on the heads since I was told they were a PITA. They decked the heads as well as porting/polishing my intake manifold. Everything looked good according to them. The heads are very common to crack on the 5VZ apparently. They also checked my connecting rods for cracks/ stress points. Those looked just fine. (I did not replace them with chromoly rods but I should have while I had it all apart.) I reused my crank and camshafts after them also checking those for wear. They balanced the crank along with a new flexplate.

Covid hit early 2020 and disrupted a lot of the supply chains/ shops we were needed. If anyone remembers in the beginning of 2020, the whole "essential business" shit popped off and a lot of places started closing in fear of being fined by the state. Luckily a lot of places said F-that. While waiting on the shop to do all the machining, my buddy and I started looking at other things to do while the motor was out. The Evap canister in the engine bay was deleted. The ABS module was completely removed and new custom brake hard lines were bent and flared to give a clean look. No proportioning valve was needed. I have the TBU along with a Tundra booster and Master cylinder which after removing ABS, stops the truck on a dime. ABS got in the way in a bad way otherwise.

 

Welcome back. How much longer til it is up and running?

 

Once I got the short block and heads back from them, it was now onto assembling the short block then installing the heads and accessory pumps. Just about all accessory hardware like thermostat housing studs, bolts, and of course all crucial engine hardware were replaced with new hardware. New cam cap bolts, main bolts, rod bolts, exhaust studs, ARP head studs, etc. New motor mounts, timing gear, crank/cam sensors, knock sensors and harness.

I opted to completely change the fuel system to handle E85 which required new AN lines, an AEM fuel regulator that I could adjust, Aeromotive 340 pump, and new 775CC injectors along with some custom AN banjo fittings on the rail. Motor was dropped in and everything mounted up. I replaced the stock oil pressure sending unit with one that would let me read actual pressure with a gauge pod mounted inside.

Doug Thorley shorty headers were used (FITMENT IS A JOKE). I had many clearance issues. The transmission dipstick had to be rerouted and my biggest issue was access to the two starter bolts is near impossible. One of the bolt heads had to be ground down a bit. The headers get in the way of the starter bolts so a long pry bar was used to "persuade" a dimple in the headers so I could access them. Its still a nightmare, but is now doable with patience.

Entire exhaust system was custom from the headers down to the rear. I wanted a very quiet ride and going with a standalone ECU, I dont need o2 sensors or cats. In fact, the cats would severely hinder performance in this use case. I used 2.5 inch diameter everything. I utilized two 18 inch resonators where the stock cats would be along with a flowmaster big block II muffler in the rear. I added a cutout right before the muffler for those "spirited" offroad adventures.

 

I like that you updated the fuel lines. -6AN, or -8AN?

 

On first start it ran like a dream. The first 500 miles were broken in with break in oil. Then drained and filled with some zinc oil additive and fresh oil. Did an oil change very frequently on the first 5k miles in order to inspect conditions and allow good break in. It was also driven gently.

Had some cooling issues and went through many months of diagnosing all cooling components. First installed a new Champion all aluminum radiator with stock toyota thermostat and fresh red coolant. Fan clutch and fan were good but still overheated. It would cool significantly down on downshifts and neutral revs. Replaced the new timing belt/ water pump with another new set and purged the entire cooling system including all block drains (thinking there was a blockage somewhere). Everything looked good. I then tried a Mishimoto 2005 Celica thermostat (155F) and it ran too cold. Tuner said it would cause issues. He also checked timing and made sure that wasnt the cause of it running hot. Then bought another Toyota 1999 Corolla Thermostat

$39 90916-03107 Toyota Genuine Parts - Thermostat (90916-03107)

90916-03107 that I believe was a 170F or 180F thermostat. This was the goldilocks but on hot days would still kiss the upper 210F mark. All symptoms pointed to it just not flowing fast enough. I also tried it with no thermostat and it was just fine but too cold. I ended up drilling two small holes on the flange of the corolla thermostat which would allow more coolant flow. This worked like a charm. Temps stayed right around 180F.

Now I could get it properly tuned. The truck is now tuned with a very reputable tuner and a lot of custom (first time) stuff. I am making around 9 PSI of boost with the Magnuson charger and a 2.1 pulley. I know its low numbers but part of this is due to the air flowing better in and out of the engine (larger exhaust and honed surfaces). I am making real nice power at this point.

I havent gotten dyno numbers yet as I've noticed my 256k mile transmission is probably on its way out. I seem to be losing some power from this trans. But no slipping or shudders yet. I'd estimate that Im likely making around 250-300 WHP on pump gas (no e85 or methanol yet). (Im also lifted with 10ply tires and some extra weight.) E85 would pump numbers up quite a bit but I'd likely blow my tired transmission. So Im driving it just fine and hooning it but I'm holding off on e85 tuning until I get a Supra performance rebuilt A340 trans. Currently I've been replacing just about everything else on the truck to make everything "new". New front and rear wheel bearings, all bushings, boxed uniball UCAs, reinforced LCAs, upgraded steering rack with all new tie rods, rebuilt driveshafts, rebuilt diffs, and a ton more stuff. Just about everything on this thing has been replaced. So thats my update. Ill upload some videos below of the current setup if I can. A turbo would definitely make more power on this engine (and i've set it up to handle it) but Im currently content on my power. Its definitely modernized and brought this 3rd gen up to current power standards. And I pass a ton of people wit ease now on the freeways.

 

I used -6AN braided stainless steel lines for the fuel. It came out really nicely for everything being a backyard job

 

Current 0-60mph times. My speedo is a few mph off but pretty close. You can see the trans shifts are a little soggy. Also ignore the Christmas tree of dash lights as they are gone now and were temporary
https://youtu.be/5Ox2X-WYJwY

Heres some fun little pops I was messing around with with the cutout off.
https://youtu.be/xONeeQAYqjg

And a little funny ass status update.
https://youtube.com/shorts/H9qQ83q508U?

 

Not your grandpa's 1st gen.

 

Lol definitely getting close to being done. Im expecting e85 and methanol along with a new performance trans to boost power numbers and shift points quite a bit. But that will have to wait

 

Hey man, I appreciate this thread. My stock 5vz engine saw probably 30 pulls at 20 psi, but I only stayed in it for 3rd and a little bit of 4th. This past Saturday I did a 3rd into 4th gear bomber (stayed in it) and she let go around 4200 RPM at 21 psi of boost. Threw a rod, blew a hole in the side of the block, and took out oil filter on its way out.

I just bought a JDM 5vz and I'm going to do LCE pistons and rods, but didn't want to mess with the heads... Might end up doing so anyway because reasons.

 

Im glad this thread is coming in handy already! You are going to have the cylinders resurfaced on this JDM engine right? I went standard .020" on everything and 9.0:1 compression. If you're going to build that donor engine for boost, definitely do it right the first time and dont leave anything out. You'll regret it later trust me.

As far as the heads, Id snag the LCE valvetrain kit to replace the valves and all necessary hardware. Also have the engine machine shop deck the heads and polish everything. You're throwing more boost in it than I am and I would be comfortable throwing 20+PSI into my engine after doing everything (except rods). Also snag some ARP head studs.

 

If the engine is in exception shape, I may just send it on the standard bore. I'll have to weigh the available maching options after I get my replacement block, but yeah I would be going the .020' bore and 9:1 compression. LCE also has these chromoly rods I want. Upgrading the the valves is something I'll have to do later. I want to try and get my truck up again before the season is gone, but that might be a lofty thought... we'll see.

I think it also might be time for me to go Haltech or upgrade to the next AEM unit.

Exhaust closed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFH97yvFknk

Exhaust cut-out open:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLZoFAbiYe8

 

That thing rips! Having those new shiny engine parts will definitely liven it up a bit more. I did everything but chromoly rods and I wish I did just to future proof mine in case I wanted to throw more boost at it. Let me know if your JDM block has any water damage issues. I've heard of some people complaining they were rusted inside from storage. Haltech definitely is the way to go. Thats what I am running

 

Yup. That thing moves!

 

Yeaaaah, you can see why I want a reliably built engine that can handle 20 psi of boost. Thanks y'all.

 

JDM engine was seized when I got it. Took it apart and water + rust. #4 Cylinder had the worst of it. #2 & #6 will clean up easily with a hone. #1, 3, 5 are flawless and I can see factory crosshatching on the cylinder bore. Going to try to save the #4 cylinder with a hone first. I think the corrosion is probably around a thousandth of an inch and closer to the bottom of the cylinder (this works in my favor because tapered bore?). If not, then off to get bored it goes. Wish me luck.

This is my second "JDM" engine, as the first engine I got was USDM, not JDM like I ordered, and I sent it back. I went to a different seller, and I would complain about this engine, but I'm out of energy to fight, I'm just going to run with what I got, unfortunately. Just be prepared to bore any engine you get and it doesn't hurt as much when you need to...

JDMChicago had the water logged engine (I think there was a post on here already talking about that seller). JDM Jacksonville sent me the USDM engine (with at least 90k miles, timing cover indicated).

It's a crap shoot boys and girls.

 

Going to use the ball hone and a drill, and/or boring stones? Should get it nice and right.