Crashnburn80's Supercharged Gladiator Mojave Build

Is this a dry or a filter you have to oil, how do you feel about the filters you have to oil. I found it very annoying in my Subaru.

 

It is available in Pro SR (oiled), Pro Dry S (dry) and Pro Guard 7 (oiled). The Pro 10R is not available. I run the Pro SRs on the street and swap to factory paper/higher protection filters for off road trips. The oiled filters offer superior airflow performance over a dry filter and that is more important to me than additional filter maintenance. Toyota’s OEM TRD supercharger switches out the filter to an oiled filter for better air flow, I was really surprised Magnuson’s JL/JT kit did not.

 

Again, we have the same approach.

All my vehicles use an oiled performance filter for the street. When the Tacoma goes Offroad, part of the Pre-Trip prep includes swapping back to a stock filter for the dusty environments. It’s much easier to knock all the dirt out of a stock filter and plopping it back in, versus having to clean/swap out oiled filter media.

I hadn’t bothered to dip my toes into this for the Gladiator yet, until today that is.

I was routing some electrical under the hood today and this required me to remove my air box. This ensued a “Oh Jeep, why? moment…



The assembly has never been sealed quite correctly, now I know why. That hose clamp is clocked in exactly the wrong spot, thus interfering with the clamping process of the air filter box top. I’ve been trying to figure out the irrational idle, I think I found it. Checking the filter media made me think of a performance filter. I pop on TW and check my current favorite thread and viola! a link is provided to the correct filter I was looking into.



Electrical upgrade completed.

 

I mainly run the OEM paper filters off road for better filtering in extreme dust than the high performance oil filters can provide. As the charts show, the filtering efficiency isn't as high on the high performance filters. But OEM filters are definitely easier to knock out the dust/dirt than clean an oiled filter.

I'd suggest following the lighting threads if you don't already. Baja's SAE fogs are some of the worst performing on the market, Diode Dynamics SAE Max are 580% brighter than Bajas, with better cut offs. You'd literally need 6 of those Baja SAEs to beat out 1 single Max light in output intensity. Even the more aggressively priced Diode Dynamics SAE Pros are 420% brighter than those Bajas. And knock off lights may look the same but never perform remotely close to the real deal. Don't mean to nit-pick but surely you'd know that poor lights can't be posted in this thread without being subjected to appropriate commentary.

 

I’d expect nothing less.

Again, I support my friends businesses before I throw money at some unknown corporation. Even if it comes at a performance deficit. I’d rather a buddy stay afloat in these times.

 

Lots of interesting JT 3.6 TVS1900 supercharger tuning discussion here. Including smoothing out the throttle response so it isn't a "light switch", introducing TCM programming (skipped by Magnuson) and pushing toque output from 380ft-lbs to 400ft-lbs via programming. Also some other useful things like relocating the purge valve away from the fire wall for less in-cab noise (haven't noticed mine yet), upgrading the Magnuson idler bearings, and relocating the ambient temp sensor (yes that is a problem).
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/magnuson-tvs1900-kit-available-now.25396/page-45

 

Fox Factory Race Series 2.0 ATS Stabilizer
The new Fox Race Series 2.0 ATS installed today. The through shaft design is quite different than the OEM stabilizer, which is supposed to allow for linear dampening throughout the entire steering range, rather than non-linear compression dampening only in one direction with the OEM unit. The solid front axle can feel a little numb on the steering, my hope was this will help the steering feel some. And of course my OCD wants the stabilizer to match the rest of the Fox Race Series shocks.


The new unit is longer due to the through piston design.


24 points of adjustment for dampening using the set screw on the left. Currently set to 20/24 firm to start and will evaluate from there.


Pro tip for install. This kit replaces the OEM stabilizer bracket. On the new bracket, install the top mounting bracket bolts first, then the bottom. I did the reverse, couldn’t get things lined up completely square and ended up causing me to need a M10x1.5 tap.

Looking forward to trying it out and dialing it in.

 

@crashnburn80 I can’t say thank you enough for all your helpful lighting (and other) posts so I’m here to enjoy watching your build.

Thanks for sharing!

-M

 

I had Bestop 2 piece soft doors on my TJ and they were fantastic, offering convenient doorless, half door or full door quickly with minimal effort. Severely disappointed in the fit on the JL/JT version. Huge gapping in areas and major overlap in others. I’d swear this was a knock off brand based on fit. Not at all the quality I was expecting from Jeep’s OEM supplier.

 

Is the second photo the gap between the bottom of the door and floor?

 

Yes, and the gap extends around to the lower front door hinge. You can easily stick your hand through the gap. While the rear of the door (rear of truck) has overlap and the weatherstripping gets awkwardly pinched out of the door, looking poor. These are their premium doors that go for almost $1400.

 

Have you seen in person the factory half doors yet? I understand you have discerning values when it comes to products and their intended use. I suggest looking into the factory half doors, if you haven't yet already.

The price point is a bit steep at the moment, so I am waiting on the Black Friday deals that will inevitably happen.

I have driven a JL with them on and they are exactly what I am looking for.

Oh, and I am waiting on a review on the Fox Steering damper. I like the design, but not sure of longevity. Plus, Ive never had great luck with Fox durability in daily driven applications. I now have 19k on the Gladiator(work truck) and I still feel like the Rubicon shocks are under valved.

 

BAD ASS BUILD!!!! from one jeep owner to another!!!!!

 

I haven't seen them in person yet. But I do agree that would likely be the ideal product I am looking for, with much better fit and finish. I haven't seen them available for order outside of an initial vehicle order option yet though. And curious if they will be able to be optioned with paint, or if it will be raw and on your own for painting.

I was able to get a bit better fit on the Bestop doors, adjusting the lower hinge mount, reducing the velcro tightness to add to more weather stripping depth in some areas while tightening it in others to reduce it. Then just bending the door by hand to get the bottom to seal better. It is significantly improved. But still not on par for the quality I expect at this price point.

Before:


After:

 

Have you seen the statis on the new Goodyear Territory MT LT315/70r17 C-load with a weight of 52 lbs? Interesting that it's 11 pounds lighter than the AT3.


SIZE UTQG Tire Weight
LT315/70R17 113/110S Load Index 113 = 2,561 lbs (1,164 kg) per tire Load Index 110 = 2,337 lbs (1,060 kg) per tire Speed Rating “S” = 112 mph (180 kph) C Max Load = 2,535 lbs Max psi = 35 psi Tread Design "A" None 52 lbs

 

He's looking at 37" tires.

 

Half doors have been amazing in this unusually hot Seattle area weather. They really do change the entire driving experience. Install/setup feels way more DIY/PITA than it should be with cutting the fabric for the handles and mirror install and adjusting things at nauseam to minimize gaps and get the latches properly aligned. Used Bestop’s mirrors. The door definitely wobbles a bit at speed causing mirror vibration, but it is usable and makes it street legal. The front doors have worse gapping than the back, which is annoying to say the least, but not an issue in the current weather. I do like that the same fabric options exist for the doors and top (both made by Bestop) so they can be matched, because I’m OCD like that.

That is crazy light. Just slightly shorter than the 35 AT3 and a bit wider. Worth considering.

 

I would like your input on a simplistic mod. I plan on an oil catch can for the pentastar V6. I’ve added them to most of my vehicles. If I keep this truck(still feel like I should have bought the diesel) I plan on putting a Magnussen supercharger. With this in mind, I feel like the RIPP oil catch can seems to be best engineered. Mishimoto makes a decen one as well. Have you looked into this mod yourself? Thoughts?

 

Agreed the RIPP unit looks quite nice, with notably larger capacity, that looks like a very solid unit. I'm looking at mounting my ARB twin under the hood, and with the supercharger that has made that much more complicated. Currently looking at the Varozza 4x4 mount: https://varozza-4x4-outfitters.myshopify.com/products/jeep-jl-jt-arb-twin-compressor-mount

This relocates the washer fluid to where many catch cans go. I think the Mishimoto one might still fit, though it is much smaller, but I also have the SC coolant lines to run in the same location. All other dual underhood mount locations I've seen are occupied by the SC coolant pump, or the SC coolant reservoir. Smaller washer fluid reservoir shown next to the brake booster. Even with this setup I'll have to cut the OEM harness and relocate both the temp sensor and horns, since the SC kit places them right where the ARB compressor sits.