3mm rubber for vibration/reverb dampening?

Dynamat is expensive. 3mm rubber flooring is not. 24" x 1' is under 2$ at hardware stores. Any reason I shouldn't just stick this to sheet metal panels with some gorilla glue?

 

Go with the Noice brand on Amazon. $1.80/sqft and it’s actually designed to be in the door. Rubber flooring isn’t designed to hold up in the harsh environment a truck door panel is over the years. And its not near dense enough to absorb the vibrations it needs to absorb.

I like the creativity though. Love brainstorming alternate uses for cheap products!

 

Well, you could. But it would only work to a small extent and for a short time.

Use product designed for the task.

Remember, you do not need to cover 100% of the panel area to achieve effective vibration damping, roughly 50-60% is enough.

 

The biggest reason would be heat and smell. Use a product designed for the environment to minimize adverse conditions.

 

Link I can't find shyt

 

I don’t have a link, just go on Amazon and type in ‘noico’

 

I 2nd or 3rd the Noico. Thats what i added to my doors and it made a night and day difference. I'll be doing rears and back wall eventually. Very easy to apply, i used a heat gun to heat of the back of the sheets just before placing them where i wanted them

 

Ohh u spelt it wrong

 

Which one of the 3 should I get or which ones?

 

You're supposed to look for Noico, not shyt.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=noico+so...1&hydadcr=6834_9585464&ref=pd_sl_43kvwww7sq_e

 

Rubber mat is not a CLD (constrained layer damper). It's a rubber mat. They don't do the same thing. The rubber mat might block some noise at certain frequencies, but in this context it might be seen as more of a barrier layer than a damper. Barrier layers are most effective when they line as much of the interior, uninterrupted, as possible. They're generally used in conjunction with a CLD as well as other features. Also remember that this is going in a vehicle, so offgassing, smell, heat tolerance/viscosity and longevity matter.

Generally the components of a full sound deadening treatment are dampers (CLD) for resonant surfaces, barrier layers to block incoming noise, and decoupling/insulating layers - among other techniques for dash rattles, etc. Many also incorporate absorbent features. Dampers probably make the biggest difference if only choosing one layer, but you want to use a quality damper in all the right places.

DON'T BUY THE CHEAP CRAP. I can't say whether Noico passes heat tolerance tests. I've never used it, but I'm wary of cheap butyl. That said, I can't recall any posts where users have complained of melting, and it has been on the market for a few years. I won't use it personally. The constraining layer seems too thin. This is not an easy job, and you'll only want to do it once. And you certainly will not want to clean up cheap a runny elastomer.



I mention that because it appears you're trying to find the cheap way out of this like most folks considering deadening. There isn't one. Fortunately many pioneers have come before you and figured out what NOT to do. I can think of no better example of - buy once, cry once. At the very least, avoid asphalt based products like Peel & Seal. Make sure you use a good quality butyl/aluminum damper from a reputable company. Realize that this is some challenging and tedious work. It involves removing and reinstalling your interior, so planning is big.

If I had to do this today, I'd be choosing between Resonix (1st choice), Dynamat Extreme, or Knu Kolossus for CLDs...with Resonix taking the preferred spot by a good stretch.

There are countless threads on DIYMA about this and even one awesome test thread. There is another in the works, but it could be a while before results are compiled. Noico is being tested in the new batch. There are also quite a few deadening threads here in the AV section of TW.

Cheers!

 

Noico. It’s is 100 here and zero smell. works great.