BILSTEIN B8 5100 Ride Height Adjustable

Just had a set of B8 5100 front and rear shocks installed. Before installation the rear measured approximately 1.5in higher than the front by my measurement. I wanted the front lifted the full 2.5in thinking it would level out because it says the rear will give you approximately 1in lift.
As of now, again measured exactly the same way by me, the front is 2.5in higher than the rear. I know that the rear are not adjustable, but shouldn't it have leveled out?

The mechanic offered to move the front down for me next week for free, but looking at it in my driveway it doesn't look so out of balance, but definitely measures that way.

Anyone have insight or comments. I will add a picture in the morning.

I will say that it significantly improved the ride. Like night and day.

 

The rear shocks don’t do anything. You would need a block or leaf pack or an AAL to raise the rear. I have 5100s in the front and I like em as well.

 

I 100% agree with you but the description says:

$91 24-186728 5100 Series Shock Absorber

24-186728 0-1" Lift Rear Shock Absorber 2

 

That means the rear shock has adequate travel for a 0-1 inch rear lift

Welcome to the world of fiddling with your suspension!

 

You could remove the rear shocks completely and the ride height wouldn't change. It would just sit on the springs

 

I don't need so much clearance in the front, I will probably just adjust it down a notch or two. The mechanic is being super cool about it, we're going to drop it one notch then re-measure to see if it needs to be dropped two notches.

 

Go to the mall, hit a few speed bumps at 40 mph. They will settle.
But as stated above.... shocks don't provide lift. This is done from the leaves and coil springs.

 

I “fixed” it for you.
3 words for the rest -Pucks and blocks.

 

https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/E4-WM5-Y323A00.pdf

 

That is for the front.
OP is asking about the rear.
The rear are not adjustable nor add height.
They are better than stock and are supposed to offer up to 1” more travel.

I’ve still never heard or seen the actual length differences.
According to this, 5100 and OEM are about the same lengths?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-tacoma-shock-info-compilation.232447/

 

Shoots, I miss understood. I thought he was gonna lower the front to match the rear by trial and error.

 

I believe his mechanic offered to do that, but why?
The fronts are already on and set. If funds allow it.
Raise the rear and be done with it. Other wise, there wasn’t much need in buying 5100 fronts?

I like to use what I pay for.
But lowering the front is an option.
Just not the option I’d choose..

 

I could do the pucks and blocks option or probably even better add a leaf, wouldn't that be a better option?

 

Throw a AAL on it, go up a couple tire sizes and call it good

 

The truck is definitely level.
If you ever haul or tow anything, the back is going to squat.
This throws the headlight beams off. It’s your call, but I’d throw in an Add-a-leaf.
Lots of guys run blocks in the rear and don’t have problem. I just don’t like them.
Especially on these trucks with stock leaf springs.

 

AALs are so cheap there's really no excuse for blocks

+1 on being aware of the headlight adjustment, it's rude to have them pointing up at oncoming cars

 

I have measured all 4 sides several times. I went out and drove over a couple dozen speed bumps. Came home and remeasured from ground to fender and not only is the front higher by approximately 2.5 inches, but the rear left side is higher than the rear right side. I tried to line it up as close to the center of the wheel on all measurements, and it's definitely Not level by my measurement. But from a visual perspective it does appear level.

 

I am definitely going to have the AAL's installed. I understand about the headlights. I almost never drive at night unless it's unavoidable.

 

What’s the approximate hub to fender measurement?