DiamondBack Covers | Modifications

I don't see many pics on here from people with the higher headache rack and back cross bar but I'm very happy with them. My bed is always full with the kid's sports equipment so I always carry stuff on top and it's so convenient to bungie things to the front rack and the back bar. I have a DCSB so when I have to move stuff longer than the bed it goes nicely across the top.

 

***Long post warning***

Finally had time to install my Chassis Unlimited Thorax rack. First of, this thing is stout. The black powder coat finish looks amazing as well. I have a DCLB and ordered the SB Thorax at full height so I can still open up my Diamondback cover. I also order a set of the lower crossbars and window screen. I reached out to Diamondback to order extra cleats and the 160# shocks.

The install! Instructions were pretty straight forward, assemble first then attach to the Diamondback. Do not tighten up all the nuts until it’s properly fitted on the cover. You’ll more than likely need to make adjustments. Once I got the bars up and side panels on I tried to install the top panels. I figured one out but the other was blocked by the arms. I fiddled with the parts, took them off, reassembled but I couldn't get the arms to make enough room to clear space for the hardware to attach the panel. Now here is where I found something interesting. I measured the width of the surface of the Diamondback cover. My front panel (closest to the cab) is 60" and the rear panel is 58". Just by looking at it you cannot tell at all. The angles look like they matched up throughout the cover so I was a bit puzzled.

The problem!!!!!! Since the width of the rear panel is a couple inches short, it's preventing the arms from clearing space to let the bolts pass through. Mind you before all this I called up Chassis Unlimited and we talked about what could be wrong. They were nice of enough to sit on the phone with me and suggest what I should try. I called up Diamondback on Tues, 7/6, and explained the situation. I asked if there was supposed specs on the width of the panel and if there were what should it be. I even asked if that was normal. Don't get me wrong if something is off by 1/8" or even 1/2" I'd think ok that shouldn't make too much of a difference but 2" off?

Here's a pic of the top panels. You'll see the one toward the cab bolts up in the middle just fine because the arms are spread wide enough to leave room for the bolts to go through. You'll see below it the how the couple inches off put the arms and mounts closer together therefore not allowing the bolt to pass through. (Circled in red)



Here is a pic of the panel closest to the cab. I tried my best to get the entire measuring tape in there but if you zoom in you'll see from edge to edge it's about 60" which is also the length of the measuring tape.


Here is the panel closest to the tailgate:



Hard to tell but you can see the measuring tape hanging of the angled edge right around 58". Here is another pic that will show it better (circled in red)


Hoping this kind of explains my situation! Just wanted to give the group a heads up as well. I know Chassis Unlimited and some other companies mount to the Diamondback using the existing cleat holes.

Overall i'm happy with the rack but bummed about the Diamondback situation. As I spoke to the Diamondback customer service person I kept getting the run around like, "well this was bought in 2017" and "that's not a rack that's supported by us". I get it, I told the rep "hey I'm just trying to figure out if maybe I got a blem or defective cover". He was able to look up my purchase and it was from an authorized reseller (I did one of the first Diamondback group buys on here through Realtruck.com). Anyway, he said I'd have to speak to an engineer and he transferred me. I got a voicemail and still no call back. I'll give them a call again next week to see if they have an answer.

As you can see in the pic above I just mounted the top panel to the left. Other option is to cut some of the arm to clear the bolts. Can someone measure their DB cover? I have the SE but I don't think it will matter. I'd be interested to know if there are any other out there with this issue.

 

Yup, I have the same issue, side closest to cab is 1” wider than the rear panel, or vise versa. The chassis unlimited rack does have that exact issue you have too.

 

Yakima HD overhaul Rack
with no KIT 1 adapter
(due market shortage)
only added rubber pad

 

Not sure if this has been done before, but I got some knobs for the clamps. Just one less step to take the diamondback cover off without having to get the socket wrench out. Just search for "3/8 knob" on Amazon.

 

I've tried to skim this entire thread, but is there still a contact through RealTruck to get a deal on the DB cover? (can anyone comment what the deal is?) I've also seen someone get a deal by using a discount code on autoanthing (hopefully they haven't exempted DB covers from these generic discounts). Thanks in advance.

 

I am not sure about those discounts. But, I purchased my HD at a reduce price through the Diamondback outlet site. I just kept t checking back until they had the right cover, in the right length I wanted, with a blemish I could live with. Lots of times there is over spray or tilted lettering. Sometimes "unsightly " weld on the inside, which won't lead to reduced strength or leaking. Right now there is a 3rd gen short bed 270, and a 1st gen long bed SE that have cosmetic blemishes.
https://diamondbackcovers.com/collections/diamondback-outlet/toyota-tacoma

 

Nice tip, a little too late for me, they have just what i needed for 20% off

 

How much can cost this bracket

 

You must have strong thumbs

 

No doubt.
I use lock washers and have sometimes even added a drop of blue Loctite. Those little clamps are always rattling loose after long dirt road trips

 

I saw on diamondback's website that they offer a light that you can add under your cover, but the $60 price tag seemed a little steep, so it was Amazon to the rescue. It's probably not as nice as the DB version, but for $17, I'm pretty happy. I added a little more 3m tape to the box (it comes with 3m tape on the box and light strip), so we'll see how it holds up to socal heat. I didn't grab any night pics, but it does it's job when you're looking for something in the bed at night and the bed lights have already turned off. I'll probably pick up another one for the front cover if this one works out.

$19 POWER PRACTICAL Luminoodle Under Cabinet Lighting - Click LED Light Strip for Shelves, Kitchen Cabinets, & Furniture, 1-Pack Includes Power Button & Tape Adhesive - Warm White (2700K)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076B6STV5?ie=UTF8

 

That Tyson sticker...

His podcast is awesome btw

 

I like this idea. Can you snug them enough to hold the cover over rough roads? 3/8” knob, like this!

 

Hey @skale240, hopefully, we aren't too late to this party. Your truck and the Thorax look great together!

We're sorry to see you got the run around thus far with an explanation. Hopefully, we can shed some light on the situation to help you and everyone else out in the future. Having installed a Thorax rack or two ourselves we've encountered similar situations. The width difference you've noticed in our cover is actually an intentional design aspect that goes into every DiamondBack across most truck models and bed sizes. Contrary to first glance, DiamondBacks are tapered from the front (cab side) to the rear (tailgate side) of the cover. This is done to match the taper truck beds have, as they are also not perfect squares. This is done in an effort to help the perimeter gaskets of your cover seal to your bed rail caps as best as possible.

Looking at our design files, the width taper of your cover is a difference of around ~2.5" from front to back. Our thought is that if the Thorax was not designed with this taper in mind then we could see how this overlap would occur. It is an unfortunate design conflict between the two products but what we would suggest would be to take those cross-sections out and shave a bit of that length off, and possibly relocate those bolts if need be.

Hope this helped clear things up!

— Luke from DiamondBack

 

I'm not sure how using knobs and hand tightening will fare on dirt roads. I haven't had a chance to try that yet, but for day to day highway driving, it's held up okay. In my experience I felt I over tightened the clamps previously. I've noticed a minor dent in my bedrail cap now that's just enough for water to sneak past the seals via the grooves in the bedrail cap.

If anybody knows where to get pool noodles for ants, I was thinking of sliding some inside the seals to give it more volume and bite.

 

use backer rod for concrete expansion joints, Should be able to get it as small as like 1/4", get closed cell so it will not absorb or hold onto water. most home improvement store should stock it.

 

How have these been doing since the install? I think it’s a brilliant idea but I already have a hard enough time keeping my clamps tightened down as it is with road vibrations and whatnot.

 

Couldn’t help my self
but copy the new Tundra Trd tail gate ligths

 

Thanks for the taking the time to explain.