2019 Sport oil change

Just changed my oil and filter for the first time. My conclusion is that I would like to kick the mechanical engineers ass for what they’ve done. It’s no longer as simple as laying on a creeper and removing the drain plug and unscrewing the canister filter under the hood.
Now you have to remover the plastic cowling first to get to the skid pan to remove it (16 bolts and screws), which is difficult laying on a creeper. Now you finally have access to the filter housing. You need two drain pans, one for the oil pan and one for draining the filter housing. The housing has a check valve you have to open by pushing a plastic drain pipe into. Good luck not getting oil on yourself. It requires a special housing wrench you have to buy as well. There are two o-rings you have to change on the housing after you put the filter element in it. You have to tighten the housing with a torque wrench not to over-tighten it. The oil intake pipe is in a 45 degree angle so you have to buy a screw in funnel not to spill oil inside the motor compartment. I’ve always done my own maintenance and this is the worst. I’m getting up in age so my wife tells me to bring it somewhere to get it done. I’m not sure the types of idiots at a dealer or quick lube shop will do this job without screwing it up. Again, somebody needs an ass kicking.

 

Welcome to the forum. Yup, it’s a pain but like you said I don’t trust jiffy lube to do it.

 

Consider yourself part of the 1% of upright walking humans who can do their own oil changes.

 

Another reason I bought the 4-banger..

 

I don’t think it’s that bad. Sure it’s not as easy at my fj40. But the canister filter drain is well thought out.

try changing the oil on my v60 wagon talk about a pita

 

I don't think its all that bad of a job. Just did mine. Same truck 2019 sport. 4 bolts to take off skid plate. Don't need to remove plastic air diverter. Use a rachet and extension. Drain oil, reinstall drain plug move pan under filter, remove filter housing, replace filter, add oil, DONE. ONLY bad thing about oil change is the thin oil used. It comes pouring out like water. So fast drain pan can hardly keep up.

 

You shouldn't need to remove the air dam.

It's really not that hard to change the oil.

 

Welcome to 2016.

I somehow am able to do it with one drain pan and no oil on myself or the floor! I don't even use the creeper! #mastermechanic

 

Seriously people?

It’s that hard to unscrew 4 skid plate bolts and spend 5 extra minutes on the cartridge?

 

I felt the same on my first oil change, but once I tossed the air dam, I can do the change in less than 15 minutes. And it's nice to be able to see the crud in the filter.

 

Man up Don! There's a kit from

$75 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench, Drain Tool, and Advanced Engine Oil Funnel Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines With Cartridge Style Systems

Motiv which has an adapter for the drain on the filter housing (with tubing so you can go into ONE drain pan), the filter housing removal tool, and even a screw in funnel for the oil fill. Get the

$51 Genuine OEM Toyota New Oil Filter Housing Cap + Plug 15620-31060 15643-31050

Toyota metal filter housing and you have a bullet proof setup (all toll costs about $90) that will take you 15 minutes tops and most of that is waiting for the oil to drain (I wait for a slow to no drip)

Oh and buying the filter cartridges in bulk (6 or more) is SUPER cheap compared to a high quality spin on filter. Bonus is it's better for the environment

 

I don't bother with that little thing in the bottom of the filter housing. I just pull the entire filter housing off and drain it from that.

 

Just unscrew the whole housing like a caveman

 

Agree it's not that bad of a job. And from what I've seen on this forum, most people remove the plastic diverter anyhow....at least if it's on a 4X4.

 

Or, consider yourself to be just as smart as the high school dropout that has no problem changing your oil at the dealership.

Hey... I just changed my own oil in my Tundra. I am much dumber for it. It's not hard.

 

No ass kicking necessary..

The filter housing does not need to be torqued. The oring makes the seal. When it's screwed all the way on, stop.

Hold a cottage cheese tub under the plastic drain nipple.

You need 6qt of oil. Empty a 1qt into the fill hole then cut off that container to reveal a FREE secret funnel. Use this free secret funnel for the other 5 qts and throw it in trash when done.

 

Go get u a Baxter kit and fumoto drain valve and fix what these engineers failed at.

https://youtu.be/oOwvT8nhD7M

 

Someone mentioned using the oil container as funnel, that’s what I have been doing.

 

A Gatorade bottle also works

 

I recently added the OEM TRD aluminum skid plate and noticed a tiny little door with 4 hex screws right under the oil area...hoping it's not a messy ugly thing when I change my oil now...