It got real...Baxter adapter, spin-on filter, oil change.

Directly under the remote inverted filter I used 2 45 degree an fittings.

it’s also worth noting the part Baxter sells that threads into the oem filter location there are two parts from Baxter. One that has 4 different fitting locations where u can block off two ports, this is Not the one I have but I would think u could use straight fittings on this part. And the one I have that has fittings only straight down which is where I used the 90 degree fittings.

 

Gen II guy here... I just goodled the oil change on Gen III, same as my 2012 Rav4. I hate those filters and caps. Glad you Gen III folks have a option.

 

Awesome Rick. I just ordered the 45s. And yes, I have the Baxter that has the side ports where I’m going to use straight fittings. Thanks a bunch again.

 

Baxter now has an adapter to relocate the filter up near the passenger headlight.

 

What?!??

 

Go back to my post 239 and watch the video you can see where i have it located. There's lots of other info in this very thread about the Baxter Inverted mount and parts needed.

 

Thanks for the info, that will save me a couple hours of sifting through this thread! ✌

 

I know the manual calls for 0W20 but it has this also.

 

Ok boys. Step 1 of the Baxter spin-on filter relocation is now complete. I’m still waiting on a few AN10 fittings to complete. I’m paying it forward after receiving generous help from blitzkrieg3002.

I’ll try and point out some helpful hints.


Above pic shows relocation to the passenger side front headlight. I’m using two existing holes. The bottom most hole is threaded 6m and the upper one is a through hole where I’m utilizing a 6m screw, nut, washer and lock washer.



Close up of screw locations. Using 1” length screws. This view is the font side of the engine bay just behind the grill area. I used a 1/8 aluminum plate. NOTE- the upper through hole screw sits underneath the filter relocation housing. I chamfered the hole, used a screw with a chamfered head and epoxied it in location to aid in tightening the nut you see in the picture.


Picture showing height of the filter looking from the driver side. NOTE- don’t locate much lower than this or you won’t be able to make your AN fitting connection on the underside of the relocation mount without interfering with a coolant line.



Picture of filter height looking from in front of the passenger headlight. Notice the rubber bump stop that the closed hood will come into contact with. So long as your filter doesn’t extend up beyond that bumper you will be fine.



Picture of the relocated filter from the passenger wheel side. Note how the height of mounting plate top which accepts the filter is actually above the height of the adjacent radiator hose to the left.

This housing mounting/ location is probably one of two important aspects of the install. You need to be high enough away from a coolant line underneath while not being too high to interfere with closing the hood. Don’t worry too much. The tolerance isn’t too critical here providing you ample leeway one way or another.

I mounted the Baxter assembly by drilling and countersinking the holes from the backside of the aluminum plate so the plate and assembly will be flush to one another. Used qty 5 6m screws with nut, flat washer and lock washers to connect mount to plate.

You will need to use 45 degree AN10 fittings to make the connection to this relocated mount. 90’s or straights will not work at this connection point.

2 straight AN10 fittings will be used to connect to the Baxter adapter that is connected at the filter cartridge location down at the skid plate.

The 2nd important aspect of this install will be to ensure you measure very well for the correct braided hose length AND to install the fittings correctly so they don’t leak at the hose / fitting junction.

I will report more after I complete the install later this weekend- weather permitting. Hope this helps someone.

 

Nice work! Those bolts that connect the inverted mount to the radiator support were a pain for me to tighten.

One thing to note that’s basically common sense. The unit itself gets extremely hott so worth it to keep in mind not to touch it while the engine is running and the radiator support gets pretty hot from heat transfer as well.

 

Good point!

The bolts weren’t too difficult for me BUT I DO have to remove it once or twice more to make the hose connections. I’m not sure how it’s going to hold up with only two bolts but I will blue Loctite them.

how many bolts did you use to secure the spin on relocator?

 

Here’s another tip. I could have actually installed the filter even a little bit higher. So long as you stay under the top of the rubber bumpers that mate up with the hood you will be good. You can use a straight edge across the two bumpers to get an idea of where you are at. You can see one of the rubber bump stops there on the rail.

 

I was able to get three total bolts to secure it to the radiator support. I'll post a photo Tomorrow.

 

Here’s where my three bolts are located.



mine looks like it’s located much lower than yours. Initially I ran straight connections below the mount, I think I bent the coolant line a tad out of the way but my hose was still touching it. Later after a leak in that setup I switched to the 45 angles and have been solid ever since.

 

Nice work Rick! I now see some differences. I used a much larger backing plate, aluminum plate vs what looks to be material that will provide some dampening and I used two existing holes to your three new ones.

Yep, your location seems to be just a bit lower BUT your location will allow you to use a larger/taller filter. I used the filter you are using and cheated rather than do my own legwork (thanks).

Do you know if Amsoil has a larger filter that would fit on this mount?

I guess those of us who do this do it for more than just the convenience. Personally, my reasons for going to this setup are 1) convenience and ease of filter change, 2) anti-drain back valve that comes with all spin-on filters / so oil is available and introduced to topside engine components during startup, 3) more oil 2 quarts-ish in the overall system, aka more cooling and lube with arguably longer life, 4) potentially a larger filter that effectively has a larger filtering surface which should filter more and easier than a smaller filter would.

I’m kind of an oil nut/snob by nature but for anyone planning on having a vehicle a LONG TIME it’s easy to get there by religiously changing your oil and filter. I’m turning 60 this month and even though the cartridge filter we have on there now is no big deal….this relocation will be a dream to change twice a year until I’m gone. I’m also fortunate to be able to afford change intervals of 5,000 miles.

If I pass and my family puts this truck up for sale I can GUARANTEE you now the engine and drivetrain will be as pristine as possible. I just turned 5,000 miles and I’ve changed my engine oil at 1,000 and 4,000 and already changed both diffs, transfer case and 12 quarts into the transmission. My only regret is not having enough runway left to try and hit that 1 Million mark with the original engine and tranny. Maybe one of you can take the handoff and make that happen for me?

 

Phase 2 installation is complete. I will supplement with pictures when the rain stops. Here’s a few observations on this second phase.

1. The MOST difficult part of the whole installation is the locating and accessing mounting hardware associated with the relocation assembly up on top. How it gets mounted is up to you. I used the two available holes on the sheet metal between the radiator and the passenger headlight. One thing to remember if you are using the M6 threaded nut plate towards the bottom of the sheet metal is to consider the AN fitting and how it can impact accessibility to install that fastener.

2. To assist the bottom fastener in the M6 nut plate I actually used an M5 X 1 screw to simply use the hole and applied a washer, lock washer and nut along with blue loctite to maintain a very secure fastener. This made the install MUCH EASIER.

3. The system added about 1.5 quarts to overall capacity.

4. MUCH anxiety associated with that initial startup after install. I rolled the truck out into the road and with the skid plate still off and the hood open I nervously started the truck. EVERYTHING WENT PERFECTLY. No leaks whatsoever.

The hose fittings you assemble to the braided hose you cut to length was much easier than anticipated. The fittings mate-up easily to the Baxter housings. The Baxter products are quality items and I’m happier than I expected to be with all of this and I expect nothing short of perfection for something this important.

One difference between my install and Rick’s is the lower assembly I purchased permits plumbing from both the bottom using 90 degree fittings or from the side using straight fittings. I used the side ports with straight fittings which increased the distance between the unit and skid plate. I suspect Rick’s model pre-dated this side-port option.

 

Awesome to hear! Double check everything after some full heat cycles and long trips. I wish I would’ve ordered the lower adapter you have in hindsight. The 90 degree fittings seem to me to be where leaks may arise in the future. I ordered the one I did to save a little on $$. Still I’m very happy. This mod is so awesome!

 

Little to no benefit. A relocation would be the way to go. With this mod, you still need to get under the truck. imo, there's no point. Stock system is super easy.

 

I haven't read this whole thread but one really good reason to run a cannister oil filter is the cannister. It's metal. As in a magnet will stick to it, but not to the stock set-up. Why is that important? Because I can put a cannister magnet on it:

$15 Corvette Oil Filter Magnet Fits: All Corvettes

Amazon.com: Corvette Oil Filter Magnet Fits: All Corvettes: Automotive . Attracts and holds the micro ferrous "paste" that is small enough to go through the filter (you know that grey smegma that you almost can't wipe off a magnetized drain plug?) That stuff. But much more of it, trapped up against the metal housing of the filter. Constantly leached out of the circulating oil, not left to settle to the bottom of the oil pan.

Isn't that worth the $200? I'm in...

That begs the question...Why doesn't some oil filter manufacturer offer a magnetized cannister oil filter?

 

Tell me about the Fumoto valve please. How much further down out of the pan does it extend than the bolt? I have a 4x2 (so no skid plate) SR5 for work and not for off-road. On occasion I drive down caliche roads though, so I worry about the slim chance if I touch the underbelly on a rut etc or kick up a rock just right if I would run the risk of breaking the Fumoto?