Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Never go in dry, unless your boot of choice comes pre-lubed. Don’t ask me how I know but let’s just say, I’m not welcome in any bar south of the Grand Canyon anymore. Not since, “the incident”.

 

Told ya not to use the dry Teflon lube

 

BUT ITS SO CHEAP AND I LIKE THE WAY IT SMELLS!

 

Best advice I’ve heard today.

 

Heims would never last for me where I’m at without some form of protection. If my truck never saw salt I wouldn’t be concerned. Had a wrangler quite a few years back that was all heim steering. They never did survive winter. So if I can slap a 2$ boot on and buy 6 months or better it’s worth it to me. We shall see how everything is after winter. Maybe it’ll be one less job in the spring.

And actually, the ONLY reason the truck is going LT is because JD took the time to seal the inner pivots and have a greasable outer. I’ve dealt with many vehicles that had open sphericals and they simply will not under any circumstance survive winter.

 

It seems like not just the roads are salty up there

 

I’m salty because you claim to know better than the people who build the stuff. I deal with customers like that daily, and quite frankly it’s obnoxious.

 

Thanks! Still not sure why I had to trim the inners, but it’s not a problem. I definitely wanted to check here first. Maybe it’s Moog, maybe it’s Maybelline. It all worked out though.

Took it for a spin on some light trails with our Bama folks today and was thoroughly impressed. Best ride and handling that truck has ever had offroad. Tons of travel. I can’t wait to take it to a park. Shit, I can’t wait to take it to Dollar Tree.

 

Stack them parking curbs

 

you answered your question.

 

How does the ride height look? I forget what springs I went with but I’m hoping it sits low.

 

Much better with 16” 600’s. I’m at around 2” of lift just guesstimating.

 

We do this often for trucks that live in very salty conditions...for example guys that live on the beach in Baja. The balls themselves are prone to rusting when they wear and are exposed to extremely salty conditions. Hell I live less than a mile from the beach and if you leave bare metal outside over night it’s completely orange in the morning. I can’t even use standard metal flashing/vents on the roof to my house, everything has to be copper.

We have customers with trucks that are constantly being driven on the beach down south and without the bootie/grease truck the uniballs/heims are destroyed rather quickly.

Until you have lived right on the coast you don’t realize how bad it actually is.

 

The grease isn't meant for lubrication, it's meant to help keep salty water out as grease is typically hydrophobic. Just another layer of protection.

I'm running my heims raw currently, as I'm curious how they do over the winter. They put some crazy chemicals in the roads here in winter, not too mention living right by the ocean. My driveway is stained from rust dripping off my frame after they "salt" the roads here.

 

We have that happen a few times a year that's enough for me. I spraying the underside down constantly especially since my frame was replaced under warranty.
Do you use that fluid film or anything like that?

Thanks for an actual explanation

Yep gotta replace the sliding door and replaced a bunch of other hardware this weekend truck is covered on the right side from the salt spray.

 

I mean I’ve seen this before, but it just reminded me of my wife and if you know what I’m talking about high five to you… sorry carry on with serious topics.

 

When reassembled, if you have the LCA all the way back, is it in the factory position?
Or does the pivot kit move it slightly forward by itself?

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4b-by5e4saI&t=35

 

It will be 1/4” forward due to the thickness of the tabs