Marlin Crawler's New Rock Crawling Long Travel IFS Suspension System (#RCLT)

Legit doesn’t explain all the one star reviews. Once again 1st gen and older yota guys have been saying your experience is better than average if you receive your product you ordered. They promise a lot and deliver much less on a pretty regular basis.

 

Oh the comments on this post.

 

anybody watch dirt everyday? the current episode they are using the marlin setup with 40s on a 4runner.. pretty set setup

 

I watched it the other day. It's a cool setup but not very practical. They cut huge sections of the rear wheel wells out and it's just open to the environment. They're also running wheel spacers because of the offset. No bueno. I'm hoping they do a follow up episode where they actually finish the build and patch things up.

 

I'd just go with a bigger axle if they're dumping that much into the front end and 40's.

 

Maybe I should have said wider - they bought a ff and ordered one narrow enough to need spacers?

 

Ok, thought I'd post a detailed update of my progress so far with pics. I'll note for the record that Mike reached out to me to ask how the installation was going and if I was having any issues. We have been in touch and I'm communicating my notes/recommendations/photos to him. He seems very eager to get the installation process dialed in, which I appreciate. I'm hoping to have everything in by Friday.

I started by prepping the rack, burning out the rubber bushing and pressing in the aluminum offset spacer. A press would have been better for this.



Drilled the 1.25" hole for the passenger side rack sleeve. The metal template bolted in and made this part very easy.


Used the sleeve to mark the upper hole, then drilled it to 19/32".


Tightened the rack down and welded the sleeve to the frame. I tacked it in 3 places first to keep it from warping and pulling to the side. When I was done the rack aligned well, to the point where if I wiggle the rack the mounting bolts fall through to the floor.


I replaced my completely shot motor mounts (see height difference in pic) and was able to get the rack in and out without lifting the motor. However, with the v8 I didn't have much clearance between the rack and upper oil pan (about ~1/8). I made some 1/4" spacers to lift the motor and have more clearance. With the new mounts and 1/4" spacers I have 7/16" between the rack and upper oil pan, and 3/4" between the fan and fan shroud. This is a non-issue for v6s and vvti-equipped v8s (06 and later). I spoke with Mike and they will be including spacers for early v8 4th gen 4Runner kits in the future.



Next I installed the Marlin LCA brace and cam gusset kit. I already had the TC cam gussets, so it took some grinding to get everything to fit. Then a bunch of awkward welding positions. This added a lot of beef to the LCA mounts.




Modified my sector shaft per the instructions.



I ran into clearance issues between the sector shaft and the motor mount frame bracket. Again, this is something only the v8s have to deal with because the v8 motor mount brackets are wider on the frame. I worked past it by cutting a section of the mounting bracket out and welding in a piece of 1.75", 0.120 wall DOM tube to create a tunnel for the sector shaft. In the end, I have about 3/16" clearance at the closest point (u-joint) after the modification. I communicated this to Mike and sent him a bunch of pics, and he will be working on a solution to the issue.






View looking up from rack input towards steering output, shows the path of the tunnel.


Last night I welded in these Total Chaos UCA double shear gussets. I can confirm that they work the RCLT, with a small gap between the shock tower and the gusset. This is due to RCLT using thicker washers than the TC UCAs.



I painted the UCA frame area last night. Gonna let that cure for today and tomorrow.


After work today I'll install the steering components, front diff, etc, and assemble the hubs. Thursday or Friday I'll install the remaining RCLT components. Then the real fun of making the 37s fit fully stuffed lock to lock begins. I'll post another update early next week when everything is in. I've also been keeping IG stories going as I work, if you want to see more current info. @lostinthewoodst4r

 

Whaaaat? Haha maybe I need to watch it again I missed that. They used wheel spacers on the front to clear the 40s over the RCLT knuckle with their offset. I was much more interested in the RCLT part of that build. My rear is done except for limit straps, sway bar axle bracket, and paint. And no tennis balls. I drove it around before I tore apart the front and it felt really good. I can't wait to fully test it in the next few weeks.

 

Yea they plugged the wheels so they probably didn't pay for them.

 

I guess they aren't able to use a lathe.

 

Looking good! I am still waiting

 

Work's looking killer. Can't wait to see you finish it up.

 

Awesome update and good to hear some positive news of Mikes involvement.

 

If it weren’t for this thread I would think that marlin was shipping these kits out left and right.

 

That looks like the entire first batch of 20. Here I am waiting for mine. Ordered Feb 19th.

 

And just think I got email from a year ago wanting to reserve

 

Latest update is that they are shipping 10 kits by the end of next week. That should be the total of the first batch.

 

Saw one on a white 4runner at meadow lake at Sierra trek. Didn’t get to look up close but was surprised to see it on a rig none the less. Never did see it run any trails

 

Alright, time for another update. I'll have it driving by tonight or tomorrow, and it's getting an alignment on Thursday. Just got back from family vacation and haven't touched it in about a week and a half. Well, like @81Trekker said, some tubbing was required to take full advantage of RCLT with 37s. I was able to keep my battery in the stock location, but did reinforce the tray (pics below) and put a wood block under it to raise it up 1.5". Keep in mind that I cut out the factory bump stop mount to run 2" hydro-bumps, which is optional with RCLT. I estimate you lose about 1.5-2" of uptravel by keeping the factory bump stop mount. With the hydro bumps fully compressed I left 1/4" of shaft remaining on the coilover (which gets me 3/4" into the rubber shaft bumper Radflo uses). Here are some pics of the bump stop installation and tub job:

I started by plating the frame where the factory bump stop mount was removed. This is also where the hydro-bumps will mount so I wanted it to be strong.


Next was making the mounting brackets for the bump cans. The forward side wraps around the bottom of the frame for added strength.


Tacked in with shock and bump stop at full compression (I left 1/4" of coilover shaft for good measure to make sure I never bottom out the shock).


Burned in... I still need more practice welding uphill, but these aren't my worst uphill beads.


Painted with VHT Chassis and Roll Bar epoxy paint.


Tub cut on the passenger side


Tub cut on the driver side


I reinforced the batter tray by adding 16ga to the bottom, then 2 perpendicular vertical pieces:
Bottom plate, ground down where I tacked it to the wheel well


Tacked in from the bottom


First vertical piece under the battery. Welded to the 16ga on bottom and factory battery tray up top.


Second vertical piece. Welded to the 16ga on bottom, factory tray, and 1st vertical piece (from inside). I used Eastwood internal frame paint with a hose nozzle to thoroughly paint everything inside here.


Finished passenger side tub (minus paint).


Finished driver side tub (minus paint).


All welds (inside and out) sealed with seam sealer and painted. I used rustoleum inside the engine bay and 3m rubberized bedliner for the wheel wells (I don't think the bedliner crap is going to last long).



Full bump going straight


Full bump, full lock. Everything clears through the entire suspension and turning cycle. It was a fair amount of work but it'll be worth it in the end. If I ever go with bigger tires (no plans at this time), it would be easier to build new inner fenders and start from scratch. At that point, the battery will need to be moved and the firewall tubbed as well.



Next update should be pics of it flexing in a local hiking trail parking lot haha. Cheers

 

Looking really good man! Im here twiddling my thumbs waiting for my kit to ship