Transmission pressure dial?

Does the 06 trd models have a pressure dial inside the trans? The reason I ask is my 98 LC has one and I adjusted it for better performance. I doubt it does but just curious and can’t find a solid answer online

 

You can make changes to the pressures but this requires taking the pan off to perform the pressure adjustments .

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/

Edit
Some guys turn the screw in 1/4 turn on the SLU solenoid to increase the converter clutch apply pressure . This is generally done to fix a converter clutch shudder

Some guys remove the accumulator valve and rotate it to the highest step to increase shift feel .

 

The A750E is fully electronic so you would need a tuner or shift kit to change any performace characteristics.

 

Ah, I see. Looks just like my cruiser trans which required a flat head screw driver

 

I used the wrong words, basically trying to stop a shutter. Don’t drive her much but when I do I notice it. I maintain her like a baby but I think the previous owner drive it hard so I wanted to turn pressure up a bit. Not really looking to go fast haha,

 

I am assuming torque converter shudder ? Read that link I posted . There is a bunch of info in there regarding how to diagnose it as well as fix it .
I highly suggest a brake tap test before jumping into the transmission pan .
Last time fluid was replaced makes a massive difference plus the addition of lubeguard platinum to deglaze the converter clutch ?
mileage ?

 

Shudder is a common problem (seems to be with many transmissions that use a PWM controlled converter not just Toyota), see the thread that @gearcruncher posted for info and potential fixes.

 

Lol you beat me to it

 

at 208k, changed fluid about 300 miles ago. It’s an issue that’s gradually developed over the last five years. Like I said earlier I rarely drive her but when I do it’s very noticeable. I’ll give the brake test a go and see if that helps before dropping pan.

 

Ok did brake test and really didn’t feel/hear any change. Seems like it does it the most when it should have already down shifted but it’ll stay in that higher gear and shudder. As I mentioned before I don’t drive it much but I’m about to start driving it every other day so I want to fix two issues on it, the shudder and a brake issue. The brake issue has to be the booster bc I’ve replaced about every other part over the last 3 years. If I just jump in truck and go the pedal has way too much slack but if I let it sit and idle for say ten minutes it’s stiff as it should be. Makes a squeak as I push on pedal and when it’s released. We’ve tried replacing everything except booster and bled properly so what do y’all think? Sorry for all the questions but I’ve been driving and getting my cruiser up to snuff over the last year so I’ve forgotten some of my Tacoma knowledge so I appreciate any advice.

 

Do you have a standard vacuum booster or the hydraulic unit?

 

Leak at brake booster will cause the engine to run rough causing your engine to chug which in turn makes the transmission converter feel like its shuddering . I would fix the brakes first .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vacuum-brake-booster-leak-replacement.370385/

 

Standard

 

Damn, I bet that’s the issue but wasn’t trying to buy a new booster ha, was hoping it was something else but you saying a new booster is required huh? Good info, guess I’ll check it out first

 

Nope , just a suggestion to look at your brakes first . Not sure if you will need a new booster or possibly a gasket replaced .
If there is a vacuum leak at your booster , it will create issues for the engine which in turn makes it feel like you have a converter shuddering problem .
Once you get the brakes under control , I have a feeling a lot of that shuddering you feel is going to go away . If your shudder continued when you performed the brake tap test , I am fairly confident you dont have a converter lock up shudder .
May want to look at some fresh denso spark plugs if you haven't recently changed them .

 

Ok thanks, did tune up in last year too. I think you’re on to something, thanks again. I’ll check it out this weekend

 

Gasket looks good but the rust on bottom could be a leak point. Got dark on me. I’ll pick back up in morning

 

Did you find a vacuum leak ?

 

If you have a code reader/scan tool that shows short and long fuel trims, watch them while you push the brake pedal. If the long term trims are stable and under 5-10% but go up when pushing the brakes, the booster is leaking

 

Following up with this . What did you find ?